'79 GS1000E project start

[oldGSfan]

This is why you never throw away parts... The '82 GS1100E take-off wheels that have been stored since new and never used are the same as the 79 GS1000. Fresh rubber, with the nubs still on.... OK it's just for rolling around the garage.

I'd prefer a 530 chain but I also have a 'spare' 630 O-Ring brand new and the rear sprocket is unused. I can live with that big heavy chain for the time being. A new front sprocket's all I need and Z1 has them on clearance so it'll do.

The inside of that rear disc is pretty grooved but it's the rear, I have another one somewhere.

 

[oldGSfan]

Now it's riding on NOS Bridgestone Mag Mopus rubber, fresh take-off's from the '82 GS1100E! I figure if I Armor All the tread it will give them some more grip

The forks are flushed and fluid replaced, seals good. The Fox shocks are rebuilt and holding pressure/fluid too. The rims from the '82 are now ready for (probably) Shinko 712s this time rather than the usual Avon AM26 as I'm on a pretty tight budget and don't see a 130/90-17 Avon anyway. But that's a month or so away. Brake calipers and MCs are in really good shape, both ends were functional, so I just need some boots/seals for the calipers I think. Having 2 GS850 parts bikes plus GS1100E spares is a deep well of reserve stuff to use. Front fender is GS850 and I wasn't sure it would fit due to a different PN, but it is identical as far as I can tell.

I've figured out a decent routing for the oil cooler and thermostat, pretty much like the picture here but moved the thermostat back behind the frame crossbar.

I have to get the carb jetting/needles sorted next before much else, but I did order a repro seat cover and am going to decide on paint soon.

 

[oldGSfan]

Carbs on and nearly ready to fire it up. I just need to clean up some wiring, it cranked and had spark but a bit of a rat's nest to tend to.

Took this picture and afterwards saw the reflection in the cam cover, the GS1100E Mr. Turbo is lurking, jealous perhaps?

 

[oldGSfan]

Well, the exhaust stud is out and two of the valve cover threads are replaced with inserts. An unexpected setback but it's OK, a good chance to look inside. Besides the damage by the ham-fisted gorilla who broke bolts and galled the threads, it all looks pretty good inside. It seems the bolts holding the valve cover on were not correct, too long. Time to take some measurements. I ordered a bolt set anyway.

Since I have it out I should probably yank the valves out and have a look, but it seems the work was done right on the head, and the piston bores look to be honed, pistons clean, etc. I have a full gasket set coming, so maybe I should pull the barrel too, given the quality of the other work. Looks OK but not too tough to take off and be sure.

I have a huge 15L ultrasonic and put the valve cover in it with very hot water to see how it would do on the gasket removal. Still only fit 1/2 at a time dunked, but it worked great, the gasket came off so easily. I use a really nice little woodworking chisel that I got in a set from my neighbor.

My ex neighbor would go to estate sales at a retirement community and focus on tools. They were very considerate neighbors and would offer me first dibs the night before a garage sale, and ask next to nothing. I filled my garage with tools, and often think of the old-timer that last used them.

I'm on the fence how clean I want it cosmetically. I can get it looking very nice without too much hassle, hmm.

 

[Big T]

Vapor blasting would be best
Soda blasting also good

 

[melchiro]

Suggestions, I see that the head is removed. Should replace your valve stem seals. Purchase the VITON type seals.

Check your valve stem to valve guide wear.

Light valve lapping to, then re-install valves and do a fluid holding check.

 

[oldGSfan]

I'm checking vapor blasting prices, a guy in San Diego made his own setup and his work looks really good. If the price is right maybe I'll get rolling on my Norton N15CS too, and get some of it's stuff blasted. I have new viton seals, cam end rubber half moon plugs, and will lap the valves.

I recently finished a '73 CB750 and took great care to try making it oil tight, as there are a lot of horror stories of inferior gaskets, rubber plugs inside the head that must be OEM etc. Thankfully the top end was extremely good shape for a 31K mile bike - it had never been apart and was really good. I lapped the valves, honed cylinders and put in new rings. Used HD studs as they torque to 24 vs 17 lbs, and stock ones stretch. Had to 'condition' the studs laboriously. Happy to say it is dry as a bone and runs great. Hoping to stay on a roll!

 

[oldGSfan]

Some more progress. It's still OK to talk about bikes here right? I tried soaking the valve cover in hot water for a while to see how it did on the gaskets. I also used my ultrasonic which fits half at a time, but I don't think it really added anything. I don't know why I never tried soaking gaskets before as they came off with hardly any effort

I looked up the lengths of the valve cover bolts, and it turns out the previous owner had used a couple that were too long, and galled the threads. Two have new inserts now and I may have to do more, will see. Hopefully they will take the 7 lbs or so of torque they need. I have a stainless Allen bolt set on the way, mainly for the Phillips head screws elsewhere but it's complete so I'll use all over.

Head is pretty clean, maybe a bit more detailing to do, certainly down in the valve pockets as there's a bit of schmutz there.

 

[mustangflyr]

You might try wheel bearing grease on gaskets during assembly let's the parts squirm during warm up and makes it easy to get the gaskets off next time. Learned that from an old P 51 mechanic.

 

[oldGSfan]

I've been out of state for 6 weeks visiting my dad, and now back to bikes. I'm tackling valve adjustment, all of them are too tight, no clearance. They were all at or about the minimum and I went and lapped the valves, which closed them up... D'oh. But it's all good, the head is in really good shape now. I fired off a request to shim exchange Ray via Email if he has one 2.50 shim I can use to swap in and measure for the right size. I have a bunch in the 2.60 to 2.80 range, and expect I'll need just slightly thinner ones based on the three I got right so far, which were pretty close. Once that's done I'll be on the home stretch mechanically speaking. If anyone has a 2.50 or thinner shim they can spare, send me a PM. I don't know if my Email will go to Ray's spam or something.

 

[Nessism]

Do you have a truck? Can you bring the bike up to my place? If so, there is a very good chance I've got the shims you need. Currently I've got 42 shims, most below 2.75, and Salty_Monk lives a couple miles away and I'm sure he has more you can tap into.

Edit:
Inventory

Several thin checking shims like 2.40 and 2.15's


2.40 - 2
2.45 - 0
2.50 - 6
2.55 - 5
2.60 - 7
2.65 - 8
2.70 - 6
2.70 - 6
2.75 - 1

 

[cowboyup3371]

I sure hope you took Ed up on that offer; if so, how's it running now?

 

[oldGSfan]

For some reason I missed Ed's offer and I ordered the one shim I needed, a 2.65 from Z1. I think I got too dependent on seeing an Email update saying that someone has replied - but it's not super reliable. It was only $4 and I needed some other stuff so I'm good - thanks Ed! I will keep in mind for future. I still have a few shims from my '82 GPz1100 sitting in a drawer, never chuck stuff away...

The bike had 7 of 8 shims that were correct because I did a light lapping of the valves - so it was just rearranging, and determining which size I needed. BTW I'm using the trick of a plastic zip tie jammed into the open valve. It is so much easier than dealing with the little tool you have to sit perfectly on the edge of the bucket.

Now, as I wait for the package, I did some cosmetic stuff. The ignition side of the case had a crack from an obvious drop, very slight just behind the cover, so I used JB Weld. I polished up the clutch cover in situ, and taped things off and sprayed. I used an ignition cover off the GS850 as it was in better shape. As for the overall cosmetic level, for this bike it's fine. I bought emblems but they are the wrong ones (!) which sucks, usually Partzilla is right on. But these are silver, not black. I'm leaning to not caring about originality and just using these, which I think are off the 'L' model.

Oh and I covered the seat with an eBay one, not bad. The foam is too soft for me but it's such a monster seat I just sink down in it like an old Caddy.

 

[Big T]

The original style emblems were superceded in the early 80s and you get the later plastic ones when you order them.
Nice work so far

 

[oldGSfan]

Thanks, not sure if you know: Do the black vinyl ones look good? I have gotten the really good OEM ones for about $15 each over the years on my GS's, and I suppose I could eat that cost if I were confident the plastic replacements look good. The price I see on eBay is reasonable from the UK as long as they are nice.

The original style emblems were superceded in the early 80s and you get the later plastic ones when you order them.
Nice work so far

 

[Nessism]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114831689631?hash=item1abc80879f:g:-ZsAAOSwRFNgtAo0&LH_ItemCondition=4

This emblem could be cleaned up...

 

[oldGSfan]

Mmm, real metal yes, thanks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114831689631?hash=item1abc80879f:g:-ZsAAOSwRFNgtAo0&LH_ItemCondition=4

This emblem could be cleaned up...

 

[oldGSfan]

Getting closer, just working on some of the little things now. Hope to fire it up in the next week and if all goes well (which it should, inshahallah) I will throw some tires and a chain on it and go riding.

 

[oldGSfan]

Fired it up today, it warmed up in about the normal amount of time and settled to a steady 1K idle, very smooth and will take throttle with no hesitation, taking it easy though as I sort things out. And no fuel leaks.

There is a little bit of burbling and popping (i.e. backfiring) on overrun that you can hear when I rev it, so I need to lean it out gradually, I think, to find the sweet spot. Or something. I have the emissions mixture screw 1 turn out but I think that may be too far, from my reading. The main idle screw is about 1 1/2 at this point.

I hope fine tuning is all it takes. I was fearing it would be terrible with the pods and V&H 4/1 on there, but I think it's already in the ballpark. Unfortunately I can't take it for a ride until I get some new tires, so at this point there's more wishing and hoping than hard facts to go on. I didn't want to sink $ into tires (and I'm borrowing the GS1100E's battery) if the motor lunched itself on startup - you never know.

 

[Rob S.]

Nice! Is that a V&H "Sidewinder"?