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79 GS1000L bad noise in motor, lots of stuff in oil.

  • Thread starter Thread starter exdirtbiker
  • Start date Start date
E

exdirtbiker

Guest
My 'project' 1000 L finally got 'done' enough to to get insured, registered, and I took it to the store.
4 miles.
When I got back, I changed the oil ( for the first time since I got it last year).( oops.)
The oil looked like it was more 'liquid copper flakes' than oil.
Actually, it was very pretty in the bright sunshine. Like realy dark 'candy copper paint'.
I put a new filter in, and 4 quarts of BelRay 10-W40, and now I have a horrible noise coming from the starter clutch area. or the bearing behind it ????
It started making this noise only on decell, after I blip the throttle.
but now it makes the noise as soon as it starts, but not so much when it spins faster than idle speed.
I have not driven it since the noise started, and there is maybe 3 minutes total run time ( at idle) since I realized something is very wrong. I took the side cover off, and the idler gear shaft looks great, the teeth all look great, and the clutch feels.... I don't know what it should feel like, but there is no 'obvious' wobble, it spins smoothly, and grabs as soon as I try to go the other way.
Could my problem just be the starter clutch bearings? or like the bike shop said "the crankshaft bearings are coming apart... you need a motor." ???

Any info is welcome,... and since I have nothing to loose, I'll start working on finding a flywheel puller. (anyone know what thread I need? )
 
Sounds like the 3 allen head bolts behind the starter clutch have come loose, take side engine casing off, then take the rotor off, (DONT WHACK IT OFF) and see if they have come loose or fallen out, they should have been loctited in from factory.
 
Thanks for your help !
I am really hoping this is what went wrong.... I'm not sure I will continue with this project if the problem is 'deeper' than this.

Do I need to buy the 2 pc puller set, or is the 16 mm "bolt" with rh threads all I need?
Or do I really need the ' 3" deep socket' to go with the other pc.?

Pete


DSC01223a.jpg
 
Copper color in the engine oil is something that you never want to see. Ever. My guess is that you took out a bearing on one of the connecting rods. Because of you saying that it only happens when you let off the throttle. When you let off the throttle the engine load drops on the pistons causing the piston to hit the head making your "Bad sound". sounds like an expensive day to me. Not saying that it is this but it would be what I would start to think.
 
that's exactly what the bike shop said was wrong... bearings on the crank.
I'm still hoping it's the washer behind the starter clutch, but there's not much hope around here. I'm just not that lucky.

But the shop did say.."call back next week, I might have a motor for you".

If not, it's looking like "parts or whole" on Craigslist.
 
Copper in the crankshaft bearings? Not positive but that doesn't sound right. Plus, GS cranks are killer tough. Sometimes they twist, or the bearings could corrode, but they don't just come apart unless the bike has 100,000 miles on it.

I'd focus on pulling the starter clutch out. You are going to need a special puller - about $20. Only way to know is to take it apart.
 
chef1366 said:
Does the starter turn the motor?
Click to expand...


she starts in 2 seconds.. battery is a year old, without use, so it's a little weak, but there seems to be nothing wrong with the starting system.

the noise sounds like it's from the area of the started clutch, so I'm "hoping for a miracle" at this point...

the audio is.. "disapointing", but you might hear the rattle. I'll try to get better sound tomorrow.

 
Last edited:
I wouldn't bother getting better sound. Get that cover off so you can look inside. Maybe the rotor is loose?
 
99% chance it's not the bottom end. This bike uses roller bearings.

Is it clutch chatter? These bike have a god-awful clutch chatter at idle. Sounds like you have bolts bouncing around in the sump.
 
feelergaugephil said:
Sounds like the 3 allen head bolts behind the starter clutch have come loose, take side engine casing off, then take the rotor off, (DONT WHACK IT OFF) and see if they have come loose or fallen out, they should have been loctited in from factory.
Click to expand...

Yep, sounds like starter clutch to me. You will need a special tool to remove the rotor. If copper is present in the oil it may have destroyed your stator:(
 
There is a brass or bronze washer on the left end of the crank, behind the rotor & starter clutch, & you will see it when you remove the rotor. Start there. If it is going away it would put metel in the oil the same look as you are describing. Ray.
 
Thanks to everyone....

Do I need the 2 pc 'rotor removal set" or just the 16mm "bolt" with reverse threads to the the rotor off ?????

Pete
 
like folks said do the simple thing first check the starter clutch assembly and hope its that, otherwise there is a good chance it's your copper washers/bushing that keep the big end of the rods from moving left and right.

A good trick to keep hot rod motors alive is every time you change your oil cut up your oil filter and strech it out and look for gold flakes, if you have gold flakes and know every elese is good, time to rebuild your crank.
 
first timer said:
like folks said do the simple thing first check the starter clutch assembly and hope its that, otherwise .....
Click to expand...

Yes, that's the plan.

can someone answer the question, please ? ... 1 pc puller or 2 pc ??

Thanks !
 
did you go to basscliffs website yet and download the gs1000 factory service manual?

The rotor puller is a special tool, not just any puller.

do a search on "rotor puller" on the site so you can see what is up.
 
You actually dont need a puller!!!!!!
Some may say "Man that's rough doing that" But the way I have always done it is......

Remove the swing arm main bolt (but put a long screw driver in its place) the thread should be the same as the rotor, if not, remove the rear wheel spindle bolt, this should be correct.
One of the two bolts DOES fit.

Get some small washers that will fit inside the threaded hole (on rotor) once inside, screw the spindle in as tight as you can get it, then use a RUBBER (not metal) hammer and as you hit the rotor it should start to back off, failing that, unscrew the spindle and put a large socket on the spindle, put back in thread and tighten it up, then use the large socket as a slide hammer, do this a few times then retighten and so forth, THIS WILL REMOVE the rotor without the special tool to get it off.

Then look to see if the 3 allen bolts are loose, need more help, just post.
Phil.
 
looks like the rotor has reverse threads...
I have a "box-o-bolts" from a Ya-mama 650 Special that had a bad day, and have a correct size bolt. But the treads are 'rh' in the rotor.

So after checking around the search feature, { thanks first-timer} I realized I was asking the wrong question.
Is a puller from "parts unlimited" good enough?
" " " " "ebay" good enough ?
Or do I have to buy Official Suzuki puller ?
 
exdirtbiker said:
looks like the rotor has reverse threads...
I have a "box-o-bolts" from a Ya-mama 650 Special that had a bad day, and have a correct size bolt. But the treads are 'rh' in the rotor.

So after checking around the search feature, { thanks first-timer} I realized I was asking the wrong question.
Is a puller from "parts unlimited" good enough?
" " " " "ebay" good enough ?
Or do I have to buy Official Suzuki puller ?
Click to expand...

I guess my post above this is invisible!
 
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