79 GS850 - Shooting for cross country reliability on a college budget

[Lunchbox88]

Your shift indicator lights are probably just unplugged. Look around on top of the tranny, you'll find a 5 wire plug just laying around, and a matching plug up under your gas tank. The one that's on laying on the tranny goes up between #1 & #2 carbs to hook to the one under the tank. They're easiest to route when you've got the airbox off, but they can be fished up there too.

The lights are there and work, but its just the light bulbs. I assume there should be some type of number plate on top of it although I could be wrong.

 

[Lunchbox88]

Can anyone confirm some type of number plate on top of the gear indicator lights?

 

[Don-lo]

Yes, there is a numberplate above the lights. Bike bandit has a fiche to look at. See what you are missing and order it.

The turn signal controller looks good. The stock controller reads speed and cancels signals after 5 seconds driving over 10 MPH. Is that integrated into your controller? It's not absolutely needed, just nice to have.

 

[Lunchbox88]

Yes, there is a numberplate above the lights. Bike bandit has a fiche to look at. See what you are missing and order it.

The turn signal controller looks good. The stock controller reads speed and cancels signals after 5 seconds driving over 10 MPH. Is that integrated into your controller? It's not absolutely needed, just nice to have.

Yeah, the pieces seem to be discontinued, oh well I will do some more searching.

The solid state one he made currently does not. Although it was something he said he thought he could do if he had some time with his o-scope to figure out how the distance signal worked. If people are genuinely interested, as a poor college student Im sure he would be willing to make some to sell. Also if you watched the video I posted in my last weekend update, there are currently 4 modes (left, right, alternating, hazard). But those can be edited and added on to, as well as changing the blinker rate if so desired.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, the pieces seem to be discontinued, oh well I will do some more searching.

The solid state one he made currently does not. Although it was something he said he thought he could do if he had some time with his o-scope to figure out how the distance signal worked. If people are genuinely interested, as a poor college student Im sure he would be willing to make some to sell. Also if you watched the video I posted in my last weekend update, there are currently 4 modes (left, right, alternating, hazard). But those can be edited and added on to, as well as changing the blinker rate if so desired.

I watched that video, it was fantastic to see hazard lights. Very cool. I would be interested in finding out what he would be asking for that little piece of intelligence. Looks like you're making good headway on the project. I noticed your seat is looking a little worn out. I've got an extra 79 850 seat in the shed. Surface rust on the bottom of the pan, the seat is in fairly good condition but has two small tears on the side. Not looking for much, maybe a swap?

 

[Lunchbox88]

I watched that video, it was fantastic to see hazard lights. Very cool. I would be interested in finding out what he would be asking for that little piece of intelligence. Looks like you're making good headway on the project. I noticed your seat is looking a little worn out. I've got an extra 79 850 seat in the shed. Surface rust on the bottom of the pan, the seat is in fairly good condition but has two small tears on the side. Not looking for much, maybe a swap?

Thanks! Yeah I really like have the hazards, and the alternating is kind of cool, I call it parade mode . I will talk to him maybe tomorrow and see if he can give me some more info about price and timelines.

PM sent about the seat.

 

[Don-lo]

I think this controller is only used on the 78-79 GS1000 and the 79 GS850, but that is a substantial number of people here. If it comes with bare wires and instructions, we can connect it to our stock pigtails. I think many people would want them. Work up a price for the current unit, without speedo reading, and include a generous profit for yourself, and let us know.

BTW, I may have a numberplate for the gears, but I need to check

 

[Lunchbox88]

I think this controller is only used on the 78-79 GS1000 and the 79 GS850, but that is a substantial number of people here. If it comes with bare wires and instructions, we can connect it to our stock pigtails. I think many people would want them. Work up a price for the current unit, without speedo reading, and include a generous profit for yourself, and let us know.

BTW, I may have a numberplate for the gears, but I need to check

Will do, I plan on sitting down with him tonight or tomorrow to figure it out.

If you have one of those number plates that would be awesome.

 

[Lunchbox88]

Just got back from spring break a couple days ago and figured I would post a little update.
First off, I spoke with my friend over break about making more of those turn signal control units. We think that if there is enough interest, we could make them and sell them for about $45 shipped USPS to the lower 48. That said, we could only make about 5 a week max. Also if people are interested in a self cancelling one, we think we could sell them for about $75 if we get the parts at the price we were quoted from the manufacture. If you guys think its a good idea, I will post it in the electronics section of the forum.

Now to my bike. I finally got around to replacing the clutch springs and checking out the fibers. All the fibers looked good, but the stock (Im assuming original) springs were noticeably shorter than the EBC ones I put in. Clutch isnt much harder to pull, but when you first start it, it drags a tiny bit then goes away. I ordered another clutch cable too just to be safe. Once that was out of the way I spent alot of time looking at my options for the petcock because I walked into my garage the other night and there was a puddle of gas on the ground . After spending about 3 hours reading gsr, and talking to some friends I just went with the pingel manual one. I have one on my ATV and its really solid, so I guess we will see. Im not really worried about forgetting to turn it off, as it is already in my procedure with my other bike. Also I decided it was time for steal braided brake lines, Im tired of the squishy lever, and if there is anything I should spend money on, its my brakes. I will get some pics up of that installation as well as the petcock once everything comes in. After that, its synchronize the carbs, and make a luggage rack. Just 3 weeks till we leave for our ride, I may be cutting this a little close.

 

[Lunchbox88]

Update - 4/20/11

Well guys, with finals approaching, time to work on my bike has dwindled a little, but I have gotten a few things accomplished with what spare time I have. I installed a new pingel petcock, and I got to say Im very satisfied with it. I did have to enlarge the hole because it was bigger in diameter, and grind a little off of one of the corners of the adapter plate to get it to sit flush.

I also managed to get some new stainless brake lines installed, and wow what a difference. Went from being able to pull the lever to the bar to having nice respectable brakes.

The last big thing I was able to accomplish was to uncave my exhaust headers. It looks like someone rode my bike into a curb at 30mph and nearly crimped the pipe. I rented a slide hammer, welded a grade 8 nut to the head of a bolt, and welded the bolt to each of the dents, then the slide hammer screws into the nut and hammer away. Worked pretty well, only caused a small hole which was easily fixed by the welder.

The biggest problem I am having now is getting it to run better. Even with stock jets, a sealed airbox and new intake o-rings, its running really rich, bogs under alot of throttle, and has a hanging idle. Anything ideas on were to look?

***PICS****
New Petcock

New Brake Lines

Exhaust (pre fixed)

Welding setup (Borrowed form a buddy)

Fixing the exhaust

 

[Tim Tom]

Nice progress. I like your method of 'bike stand' :-\\\

 

[Lunchbox88]

Haha thanks. Turns out my points gaps were off. So after fixing that and then readjusting the timing it runs a better but still seems to be rich. If from idle I give it full throttle, it just dies. If Im at a low rpm and give it alot of throttle it bogs. Anyone know what the jetting for a stock airbox with a kerker 4-1 should be?

 

[resjudicata]

Haha thanks. Turns out my points gaps were off. So after fixing that and then readjusting the timing it runs a better but still seems to be rich. If from idle I give it full throttle, it just dies. If Im at a low rpm and give it alot of throttle it bogs. Anyone know what the jetting for a stock airbox with a kerker 4-1 should be?

Generally, if you whack the throttle open and it dies or bogs then you are lean. Do you have any other indications making you think you are rich?

BTW, are you in engineering school in Rolla?

Chris

 

[Lunchbox88]

Generally, if you whack the throttle open and it dies or bogs then you are lean. Do you have any other indications making you think you are rich?

BTW, are you in engineering school in Rolla?

Chris

Yeah, the plugs seem to be pretty black. When it finally stops raining here in the Midwest Im going to do a pull and then check plugs again. Since its been raining I have just been tackling the front forks.

Yes I am a Mechanical Engineering student in Rolla.

 

[niclpnut]

My brother graduated from Rolla with an electical engineering degree.

Throw up a couple pics of your plugs if you can.

 

[resjudicata]

Yeah, the plugs seem to be pretty black. When it finally stops raining here in the Midwest Im going to do a pull and then check plugs again. Since its been raining I have just been tackling the front forks.

Yes I am a Mechanical Engineering student in Rolla.

How old are the plugs?

The reasons I say that a bog when whacking the throttle open usually means that the carburation is lean is that when you open the throttle you are adding air and making the mixture lean. The carb has some way of making up for that. If you were running too rich you would have problems running constant speed but likely not on acceleration.

With our VM carbs when you open the throttle you are raising the slides and yanking the needle out of the jet and allowing more fuel in. However, you have to be careful whacking the throttle open on these carbs. If you open them too much too quick you will end up with to little fuel going in until the rpm's raise enough to increase the air velocity which will draw the fuel out of the needle jet. On these carbs you want to roll them open rather than whack them open.

So, I'm still not entirely convinced that your carbs aren't running lean yet.

Chris

 

[Lunchbox88]

How old are the plugs?

The reasons I say that a bog when whacking the throttle open usually means that the carburation is lean is that when you open the throttle you are adding air and making the mixture lean. The carb has some way of making up for that. If you were running too rich you would have problems running constant speed but likely not on acceleration.

With our VM carbs when you open the throttle you are raising the slides and yanking the needle out of the jet and allowing more fuel in. However, you have to be careful whacking the throttle open on these carbs. If you open them too much too quick you will end up with to little fuel going in until the rpm's raise enough to increase the air velocity which will draw the fuel out of the needle jet. On these carbs you want to roll them open rather than whack them open.

So, I'm still not entirely convinced that your carbs aren't running lean yet.

Chris

Yeah, Its really throwin me off. I put in 95 mains to see if that would fix it, and it seemed to come off of idle a bit better but seemed slower at full throttle and pops a every once in a while on decel. It have a kerker 4-1 system but its a stock, sealed airbox. Do you think that is throwin it off? Also I think my needle valve seats my be leaking now. One of my carbs just dropped a little puddle of gas on the floor even with the petcock off. Could that be causing a false rich condition?

Heres 2 plugs (1 and 4).
I did wipe some carbon off of the strap befoe I took the picture so it was a bit darker.

 

[resjudicata]

Leaking float needle seat valves will definitely cause an over rich condition.

It sounds like there could be more things involved here. I looked at this thread and can't remember everything you have done so far.

Have you done the valve clearances on the motor?
Have you checked compression on each cylinder?
Have you done a good dip of carb bodies and blasted all passages thoroughly?
Have you done o-rings on the carbs?
Are the float levels properly set?
Have you properly sealed the airbox?
Do you have a new air filter?
Have you vacuum sync'd/balanced the carbs?

Until the above are all done we can't really determine what or where your problem comes from. BTW, are all 4 of your sparkplugs the same as the two you show in the photos?

Chris

 

[Lunchbox88]

Have you done the valve clearances on the motor? Yes
Have you checked compression on each cylinder?Not yet but seems good
Have you done a good dip of carb bodies and blasted all passages thoroughly?Yes
Have you done o-rings on the carbs?Yes
Are the float levels properly set?When I first got it, ill check again
Have you properly sealed the airbox?Yes
Do you have a new air filter?Filter is in good condition and clean
Have you vacuum sync'd/balanced the carbs?Yes

All the plugs stay about the same color with just small variances. Z1 doesnt seem to have the float needle seats, anyone no where I can get them that has fast shipping? Ill take the carbs apart when I get home this afternoon and check floats and cleanliness.

 

[Lunchbox88]

Seems that it may not be the float valves. I found that the drips are coming from the gas tank Does anyone know if there are any quick semi temporary solutions. It seems to be a small pin hole in a previous fix (pics below). I plan to eventually por-15 the whole tank but I leave for my trip next monday (the 9th) and with finals I dont have time to do it this week. I was thinking maybe something like the por-15 epoxy putty or something might hold up long enough. Any suggestions would be very appreciated.