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81-550T, need 9000 rpm

Buffalo Bill said:
I'd like to shift on the torque peak at 8200 rpm as I climb through the gears. Right now there's no power gain above 7000 because it progressively misfires as the rpms climb.
I'm going to order 105 main jets today.
As you have your '80 550 CV's currently set up, can it hold an idle at 1100 rpm? Mine will die out if set below 2200 rpm.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have major air leaks - boots, O ring, airbox status please

Your bike should rev effortlessly to redline in the lower 4 gears
 
I don't buy your concept?

I don't buy your concept?

tkent02 said:
Short shifting a 550 at 8,200 will put you into the next gear well below the torque peak, it probably won't pull fifth or sixth any higher, especially in headwind or up a grade, and of course depending on sprocket ratios. Shifting at 10,000 or so, it is already in the torque peak when it gets to the next gear, should be able to pull it on up.
Click to expand...
Not ready to argue about your conception of the correct shift point for maximum acceleration. But it sounds like a quick way to blow an engine.
Bill
 
Not on a bike with a 9k+ factory redline. 10k is fine, and dropping rpm for next gear to beginning of powerband is how to go fast.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
Not ready to argue about your conception of the correct shift point for maximum acceleration. But it sounds like a quick way to blow an engine.
Bill
Click to expand...

No, it's a 550. Blowproof. Mine was proof of this, it withstood well over 100,0000 miles of this type of use. Even then it only leaked a bit, still ran fine. OK, it leaked a lot, but no mechanical part ever broke. It loved it.
But you have to fix the missing or jetting problem or whatever it is, running it hard in that condition would be very bad.
 
Than we agree on my bikes need for 9000 rpm?

Than we agree on my bikes need for 9000 rpm?

Thanks,
Now I know you guys understand I should feel the power climbing all the way to 9400 rpm.
Bill
 
I finally tracked down an air leak?

I finally tracked down an air leak?

Big T said:
Sounds like you have major air leaks - boots, O ring, airbox status please

Your bike should rev effortlessly to redline in the lower 4 gears
Click to expand...
Yes, I found a leaky intake pipe today.
I've been hearing a little pfft sound coming from the left side, it only happens about once a minute, but I traced it down by reaching under the carb and intake pipe as I warmed the bike up and finally felt some air blowing out from a crack in the rubber.
I looked for leaks in the intake pipes when I've had the carbs off, but never found any cracks before.
$30 each, anybody got some good ones they want to sell?
Bill
 
You've found the problem - time to pungle up for the new boots

You'll be rewarded with years of trouble free riding
 
I got redline now! But?

I got redline now! But?

Yes!
I replaced the faulty intake pipe with a new one, and put some 102.5 main jets in and yes it's got good power all the way up to the redline!
The 102.5 mains I got from Bikebandit off the 1983 550 parts list, that's a 16 valve engine but the mains fit the 1981-82 8 valver.

Bummer is, I still can't get the bike to idle below 2200 rpm after it warms up! :mad:
I put #45 jets in, stock is 40. But no change. It still dies if adjusted below 2300 rpm. Seems like I can't find the issue?
Could it be that now it's too rich?
This is the most frustrating tuning problem I've ever had. :|
Bill
 
You replaced the leaky intake boot. That's good.
I need to go read over the thread again to see what's been suggested, done, and hasn't helped. :) Been a while since this thread was looked at.
 
Timing not adjustable?

Timing not adjustable?

I haven't put a timing light on there, it kind of acts like the timing is a little bit retarded but with electronic ignition how could I adjust it?
Thanks.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
I haven't put a timing light on there, it kind of acts like the timing is a little bit retarded but with electronic ignition how could I adjust it?
Thanks.
Click to expand...


The igniter doesn't do anything until the elec ignition tells it to.
It's told to when the little magnet passes the trigger.
Ignition box decides when to start the advance (which is actually reducing the retardation).

You can still adjust when the elec ign is triggered, because the plates and magnet and such are still mechanical devices.

Plate turns one way or t'other to advance or retard timing.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
Yes!
I replaced the faulty intake pipe with a new one, and put some 102.5 main jets in and yes it's got good power all the way up to the redline!

But no change. It still dies if adjusted below 2300 rpm. Seems like I can't find the issue?
Could it be that now it's too rich?
This is the most frustrating tuning problem I've ever had. :|
Bill
Click to expand...

You only replaced the one intake boot?

High idle is a lean symptom, replace the rest of the boots. Larger jets are just masking the problem
 
I got some work cut out for me?

I got some work cut out for me?

Big T,
Replace the last 2 as well? Doh, dat's another $60 bucks! :cry:

mlinder,
The 550 service manual only shows the point type ignition, but I'll try the plate adjustment. I can do that easy and it won't cost me nuthin'. ;)

Thanks. Bill
 
Ignition advance not adjustable?

Ignition advance not adjustable?

Looks like I go with Big T and put in all new intake pipes.

Ignition advance is not adjustable for the newer electronic type, it's got no screw slots in the plate.

Bill
 
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