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81 GS1100 E Starting Problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter steves
  • Start date Start date
I finally got a chance to yank out the carbs today in this blustery 70* northeast December weather.

The bottoms of the bowls for #1 and #2 were wet with fuel, so I'm guessing bad bowl gasket? Could the drain screws be bad?


Here's a pic....

Pic009Medium.jpg
 
Your drain screw gaskets could be bad, or the screws holding the bowls on could have been a little loose. Replacing the bowl gaskets wouldn't hurt, though.
 
That makes sense. If the float bowl is leaking the choke rod wouldn't be submerged in gas to suck up gas for the choke citcuit.
Hope that fixes it for you.
 
Have not yet opened the carbs. On my list for this weekend. Someone also mentioned that I may need a set of rubber plugs?? Where would they go?
 
The rubber plug blocks the port to the pilot jet. When you put the bowl back on it doesn't seat all the way because it's being held up by the plug. Just tighten the bowl screws and the plug will seal into the port.
 
If you don't find a problem in the carbs, my money would be on valve adjustment. I had a Kawasaki Voyager 1300 that had a very hard time starting when cold. When warm, it started so quick I could not get my thumb off the button fast enough. Clearances on the Kaw were .004 and .008 on intakes and exhausts. My Clymer manual for my (wife's) 850 calls for .0012" to .0031", which is very small. After all, .003 is the thickness of the average sheet of notebook paper. Since the valves tend to tighten up over time, it would not take long to use up these miniscule clearances. When the clearance is gone, the valve will not close fully and compression suffers, along with other problems. Left too long like this, you could burn some valves or worse. On my Kaw, deposits built up on the tops of the pistons, bending 4 of the 6 intake valves. Not a very cheap proposition.
 
Just an update... the issue was carb related. Over the winter I got another set from flebay and had them rebuilt. Just installed them this afternoon, and the bike fired right up. I'm gonna wheel it out tomorrow and take it around the block.
 
If you have the money I would send your old carbs away and have them professionally cleaned.
You could reift them back to the bike or hold them for spares if this happens again.

Glad you got it sorted.

Suzuki mad

1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200 K1
 
If you have the money I would send your old carbs away and have them professionally cleaned.
You could reift them back to the bike or hold them for spares if this happens again.

Glad you got it sorted.

Suzuki mad

1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200 K1

I'm not sure what a "professional" cleaner would do that the guy I used already didn't try. He dipped the old set twice.
 
"Dipping" is just the start of the process. How long were they in the "dip"? My can of Berryman's says to soak for 15 to 30 minutes, then rinse. I have much better results soaking for 15 to 30 hours, then rinsing. Yep, I disassemble one carb, drop it in the can and move on to something else. The next day I will raise the basket, rescue the drowned (and clean) parts, rinse them off with warm water and re-assemble the carb. Then I take the next carb apart, dunk it overnight and continue the process.

It ends up taking most of the week to do a set of carbs, but I KNOW they are clean. \\:D/


.
 
"Dipping" is just the start of the process. How long were they in the "dip"? My can of Berryman's says to soak for 15 to 30 minutes, then rinse. I have much better results soaking for 15 to 30 hours, then rinsing. Yep, I disassemble one carb, drop it in the can and move on to something else. The next day I will raise the basket, rescue the drowned (and clean) parts, rinse them off with warm water and re-assemble the carb. Then I take the next carb apart, dunk it overnight and continue the process.

It ends up taking most of the week to do a set of carbs, but I KNOW they are clean. \\:D/


.

At least over night once. When he removed the caps from the pilot screws, he found that someone else had previously attempted to, and messed up the screw and the threads. They filled it with RTV, and painted it over to look like it wasn't touched. My guess is that there is RTV somewhere in the carb body now, and that was causing the problem.
 
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