81 GS450S Build

[hardline_42]

Hardline, I've read from a couple different places that a thin layer of paint helps to dissipate heat (more surface area than bare aluminum). But black paint would absorb more heat from the sun than a lighter paint.

Personally though, I think that an aircooled motor isn't affected by the miniscule bit of paint on the surface. If it will over heat, it will do it regardless.

I imagine you're right since there were plenty of motorcycle engines that came painted black at least partially, from the factory. I think for the most surface area you would want a rough surface, like a bead blasted finish, but a painted finish probably won't make enough difference to matter.

 

[jmaresca]

I need to order parts to redo my braking system. On BoulevardSuzuki, this is what I found as far as parts numbers goes:

59302-45850-XNA - Front Brake Pad Set
64400-11860 - Rear Brake Shoe Set

Are these correct? I'd also like to rebuild the brake sets with repair kits for peace of mind. Anyone know where I can get them? Also, I'd like to get a stainless steel hose. What's a good source for that?

 

[hardline_42]

I'd also like to rebuild the brake sets with repair kits for peace of mind. Anyone know where I can get them? Also, I'd like to get a stainless steel hose. What's a good source for that?

You should get the piston and seal sets from Suzuki as well. Aftermarket rebuild kits are known for poor quality. For a stainless line, you can go the Earl's DIY route, the Goodridge semi-DIY route from Z1 or the pre-fab lines from Rennsport via eBay. I think PeteGS posted the specs for the Rennsport line as far as length and banjo types/angles.

 

[jmaresca]

You should get the piston and seal sets from Suzuki as well. Aftermarket rebuild kits are known for poor quality. For a stainless line, you can go the Earl's DIY route, the Goodridge semi-DIY route from Z1 or the pre-fab lines from Rennsport via eBay. I think PeteGS posted the specs for the Rennsport line as far as length and banjo types/angles.

Thanks. I called around for tire mounting/balancing cost and everyone wants 85 bucks. Looks like I've got another thing I'll be learning.

 

[jmaresca]

Got the engine and frame painted. Ordered some Shinko 712s. Have to get them mounted and balanced. Put some new gaskets in the motor. Swapped the stupid Phillips screws in the motor for stainless allen screws. Got some new brake pads and brake rebuild parts.

Black is the new chrome.

 

[jmaresca]

Started the final build. Got new rubbers mounted and balanced. Painted the wheels and gas tank. Fabbed a new seat. Got a bad master cylinder, so I need to order a new one.

 

[jmaresca]

The end is near. Got everything hooked up. Electrical system is working. All lights are good. Got an antigravity battery. Got a new master cylinder, a slew of jets, and bar end mirrors coming tomorrow.

I've got some kind of idling issue in the carbs. I was able to start it up by pulling on the throttle, but it wouldn't idle on it's own. After doing this for awhile, it wouldn't kick over at all. I probably flooded it. Need to adjust my air screws, idle screw, and maybe my pilot jet. I'm running a 142.5 main jet and 45 pilot jet. Any help is appreciated.

 

[jeffasaurus2]

Little info on the jetting - Pete has a thread that goes in depth on 450 carb tuning, super informative.

I personally have Pods and aftermarket mufflers and run 135 or 137.5 mains, (cant remember exactly), and 45 pilots, keep in mind I'm in Denver at roughly 5200 ft elevation.

 

[Guest]

Got the engine and frame painted. Ordered some Shinko 712s. Have to get them mounted and balanced. Put some new gaskets in the motor. Swapped the stupid Phillips screws in the motor for stainless allen screws. Got some new brake pads and brake rebuild parts.

Black is the new chrome.

Cool Pic!

Does anyone else see Hendrix looking down approvingly ?
​

 

[Guest]

Really? no one sees Jimi Hendrix to the left of the streetlight?

I looked at the picture again this morning (with a clearer head) and still saw it.

Oh well, cool build nonetheless!

 

[jeffasaurus2]

Ha! No Jimi in those trees.

I gotta say though, open headers were sweet for a week, then I got really annoyed with it. Some shorty, reverse cone mufflers with a little more packing on those sound amazing and do everyone around you a huge favor!

 

[Guest]

Look closer, are ya sure.....??

I must be having a 'flashback from the 70's....


And that sound might just be some Marshall overdrive distortion!

 

[jmaresca]

Ha! No Jimi in those trees.

I gotta say though, open headers were sweet for a week, then I got really annoyed with it. Some shorty, reverse cone mufflers with a little more packing on those sound amazing and do everyone around you a huge favor!

I'd like to do the Mac 2-1 at some point, but I'm in a race against time before it gets too cold. There are other things I'd like to do also that will have to wait until next year.

 

[jmaresca]

Got a new front master cylinder installed. Just have to put on my bar end mirrors, get the ignition in order and I'm good to go.

The carbs are getting gas. I pulled the plugs out and they were black and dry with what looks like carbon. The motor near the plugs looks wet. After doing some research, it looks like I'm running too rich. Is this a correct assumption? I'm going to buy a bunch of new NGK plugs and try those out. If they end up the same as the old ones, I'm probably running rich. If I'm running rich, do both the pilot and main jets need to be lowered? Or just the pilot?

 

[jmaresca]

Just installed new plugs. I'm getting spark when they are grounded. I made the dumbest mistake ever. When I painted my engine, I forgot to remove the tape covering the engine breather hole. Then I ran it for a few minutes (not well). What do I have to do now to get this thing running again?

edit: also, there's white smoke coming from the pipes.

 

[Guest]

I have pods and free flowing pipe on mine... 145 mains and stock 17.5 pilots. Needles are half a notch richer than stock and she's now running better than ever. I dropped the needles half a notch last Sunday and leaned the mixture screws out a quarter turn to get to this point.

If your plugs are black, then yes too rich.

Leave the big mains in and go back to stock pilots and see what that does to the plugs. Clean them up first otherwise they will take too long to colour.

I would be lifting your needle as well otherwise you'll be lean once you get off the pilot circuit.

You will need to ride and go by feel and plug chops to know exactly where your fueling is at.

If you only had the breather tube blocked for a short time it will be ok, that won't do any damage I'm aware of.

Edit: Forgot to mention the white smoke... mine does that occasionally after hard running (can only see it at idle), and at this stage I think it's because I was too rich on the needle. I didn't see any yesterday but we weren't riding as hard as usual. The last time I saw it was after some awesomely fun twisties where I was constantly in the 6 - 9K RPM range.

 

[jmaresca]

I have pods and free flowing pipe on mine... 145 mains and stock 17.5 pilots. Needles are half a notch richer than stock and she's now running better than ever. I dropped the needles half a notch last Sunday and leaned the mixture screws out a quarter turn to get to this point.

If your plugs are black, then yes too rich.

Leave the big mains in and go back to stock pilots and see what that does to the plugs. Clean them up first otherwise they will take too long to colour.

I would be lifting your needle as well otherwise you'll be lean once you get off the pilot circuit.

You will need to ride and go by feel and plug chops to know exactly where your fueling is at.

If you only had the breather tube blocked for a short time it will be ok, that won't do any damage I'm aware of.

Edit: Forgot to mention the white smoke... mine does that occasionally after hard running (can only see it at idle), and at this stage I think it's because I was too rich on the needle. I didn't see any yesterday but we weren't riding as hard as usual. The last time I saw it was after some awesomely fun twisties where I was constantly in the 6 - 9K RPM range.

Thanks for chiming in. I read your thread but never saw what your final setup was. Sadly, my needle doesn't have clips on it. I wonder If I can swap mine out for some that do have clips.

I took my valve covers off and felt with a feeler gauge. I have no clearance on any of the valves. Next step is to get a small shim and take measurements.

 

[Guest]

You may get away with just a shim on your needle, that's were I'm at now. Even though I have 5 notches, I'm back to stock position with one shim added which effectively lifts it half a notch.

There's a seller on eBay US that sells shims that I got and are very handy as they're not Mikuni shims but are made to fit, and there's actually 3 different thickness shims in there to give you more adjustment. Can't remember the seller but searching Mikuni shims should find them.

No valve clearance? Are you sure you're measuring right? If there really is no clearance to get a gauge in, try rotating the bucket with the cam lobe in the correct position to measure.

If you can rotate it, then you at least have some clearance and one shim size down will likely be right.

If you can't rotate it at all, then you have absolutely no clearance and will likely need at two or more shim sizes down.

 

[jmaresca]

You may get away with just a shim on your needle, that's were I'm at now. Even though I have 5 notches, I'm back to stock position with one shim added which effectively lifts it half a notch.

There's a seller on eBay US that sells shims that I got and are very handy as they're not Mikuni shims but are made to fit, and there's actually 3 different thickness shims in there to give you more adjustment. Can't remember the seller but searching Mikuni shims should find them.

No valve clearance? Are you sure you're measuring right? If there really is no clearance to get a gauge in, try rotating the bucket with the cam lobe in the correct position to measure.

If you can rotate it, then you at least have some clearance and one shim size down will likely be right.

If you can't rotate it at all, then you have absolutely no clearance and will likely need at two or more shim sizes down.

Thanks a ton for the help in the other thread. I should be sorted out with 4 2.50 mm shims now.

I found the needle shim kit here. From what I remember of when I broke down my carbs last time, the american version needle doesn't have notches on it. I wonder if I can use one of the needles listed here to swap with my stock needles.

 

[Guest]

Yep that's the shim kit. Try adding one of those before trying other needles, you might find the cheap/simple solution solves the problem.