Nvr2old, does that mean I should have a second gun to spray the clear since the paint would dry before I could finish cleaning the first gun?
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81 GS550T Full Rebuild...In Ohio
- Thread starter cowboyup3371
- Start date
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Guest
Guest
Shouldn't need to Scott, from memory I waited overnight to do my clear and that was within the re-coat time of the paint I used which I think was 24 hours.
Basically it depends on the paint, but they will give you a re-coat time.
I figured if I did my last base coat in the afternoon, then the first clear first thing the next morning it'd be fine. Seems like it worked out too...
Basically it depends on the paint, but they will give you a re-coat time.
I figured if I did my last base coat in the afternoon, then the first clear first thing the next morning it'd be fine. Seems like it worked out too...
The paint is a PPG DBC/DBI PCL/KCL Blue Streak Pearl B/C code number 931299 found on the Avenger, Dart, and Caravan (sorry I was mistaken as the other one I'd considered was found on the Viper). I'm really looking forward to what it will look like once we're done.
Here's a picture of a Dart with it.
Here's a picture of a Dart with it.
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Discovered last night after putting the coils and gear indicator wiring back on that I can't find the starter button for my right handle switch. Ordered a new one plus a couple of other things I needed from Boulevard this morning so I'm back to waiting for a couple of weeks.
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Guest
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Bugger Scott... but I like that blue!
8
83_450E
Guest
Make sure you buy enough paint for everything this one. PPG's Deltron DBC has very picky blue and purple toners. They're very potent and when mixing for a certain paint code they are almost always incorrect. It's critical to use one batch for everything because the next may not be the same color.
I just switched my clear to PPG's Omni 4.2 voc production clear. If I recall a gallon with hardener was close to $100 and I recomment it over Deltron 2000. The only problem I've found with it, is over 85/90*F it flashes and hazes badly.
Painted Last Night
Painted Last Night
As it's a bit after 1am and I got home about 45 minutes ago, I would say I painted tonight but I guess in reality it's morning so I'll say last night
. But yes, the main bike bits are finally painted so all I have left now are to clean up the paint on the rotors and any other small items I find that I missed as I move on.
I learned that I moved too fast when spraying the primer but too slow when I did the tank. Fortunately however, my friend was able to fix my mistakes after we sanded out the runs with 600 grit and brought it back to life. We laid down three coats of clear on the tank but doubled that on each run so in reality, as far as my counting goes, there's 6 coats on there already. We'll let things sit until next weekend and I'll try to finish what I can over the next few days.
Here's the tank after my screw up:
And the side covers after the first go around. I did one side cover pretty good but the other had a run on it so we sanded it down and fixed it. I don't have any final shots of them yet and will take some later.
Here's the tank after he fixed it up:
And after putting the clear on with the flash from my phone shining to show some of the paint. We both really like the way it turned out. Note all the clear haze in the air...should have worn my mask more but I hate it so I didn't.
And finally, one of the wheels. The other wheel's picture turned out darker than even this one and wouldn't show up very well so I'll get better ones later:
I can't wait to put them on the bike and get pictures in the sun...just a couple of more weeks.
Painted Last Night
As it's a bit after 1am and I got home about 45 minutes ago, I would say I painted tonight but I guess in reality it's morning so I'll say last night
. But yes, the main bike bits are finally painted so all I have left now are to clean up the paint on the rotors and any other small items I find that I missed as I move on.I learned that I moved too fast when spraying the primer but too slow when I did the tank. Fortunately however, my friend was able to fix my mistakes after we sanded out the runs with 600 grit and brought it back to life. We laid down three coats of clear on the tank but doubled that on each run so in reality, as far as my counting goes, there's 6 coats on there already. We'll let things sit until next weekend and I'll try to finish what I can over the next few days.
Here's the tank after my screw up:
And the side covers after the first go around. I did one side cover pretty good but the other had a run on it so we sanded it down and fixed it. I don't have any final shots of them yet and will take some later.
Here's the tank after he fixed it up:
And after putting the clear on with the flash from my phone shining to show some of the paint. We both really like the way it turned out. Note all the clear haze in the air...should have worn my mask more but I hate it so I didn't.
And finally, one of the wheels. The other wheel's picture turned out darker than even this one and wouldn't show up very well so I'll get better ones later:
I can't wait to put them on the bike and get pictures in the sun...just a couple of more weeks.
S
SVSooke
Guest
Very nice Scott,ain't "gun" painting fun?I am WAY better with a rattle can than the gun.
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Guest
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Love that colour Scott, and I can't wait to see it in the sun either!
It's hard to get the gun work right when you're inexperienced like us, but keep what Larry and others say in the back of your head and you'll do ok
I actually can't wait to get my shed done so I can do some more... I should get a better job easier this time 'round...
It's hard to get the gun work right when you're inexperienced like us, but keep what Larry and others say in the back of your head and you'll do ok
I actually can't wait to get my shed done so I can do some more... I should get a better job easier this time 'round...
After a fun weekend at work restoring service from having a fire on the server floor, my equipment is okay but the server guys lost a few hard drives and power supplies from the fire supression system killing the power
, I haven't had much time nor was awake enough yesterday to work on the bike. However, I received my new turn signals and brake light from Superbrightleds.com today.
First, a 1156 45 SMD LED Bulb for the turn signals:
and an 1157 Dual Intensity 25 LED Motorcycle Bulb with 19 red LEDs for the brake light and 6 white LEDs around the edge for the license plate. Steve and I tested it with his power source and it's brighter than he expected.
I'll try to get back to working tomorrow.
, I haven't had much time nor was awake enough yesterday to work on the bike. However, I received my new turn signals and brake light from Superbrightleds.com today.First, a 1156 45 SMD LED Bulb for the turn signals:
and an 1157 Dual Intensity 25 LED Motorcycle Bulb with 19 red LEDs for the brake light and 6 white LEDs around the edge for the license plate. Steve and I tested it with his power source and it's brighter than he expected.
I'll try to get back to working tomorrow.
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Not as bright maybe from our testing but it's not too bad. I'll have the wife tell me for sure though once things are up and running.
Steve
GS Whisperer
There are several different bulbs available with slightly different configurations. The ones that he got were not bad. Would probably have to use a light meter to get an accurate measure of the difference, but it would not be much.
Where the LEDs make a difference is in the amount of time it takes to ramp up to full brightness. An incandescent bulb glows brighter and brighter, until it reaches its maximum, then gets dimmer and dimmer, until it's fully off. The LED simply snaps ON and OFF.
The light about which I was most concerned was the tail/brake light. The one he chose has several red elements facing rearward, toward the lens, and also has a few white elements arranged to shine outward, perpendicular to the base. Those are intended to illuminate the license plate with the proper, legal, white light. They also happen to shine a bit into the reflector to fill out lens. As I suspected, though, the red lights facing the lens did not fill the lens area as much as hoped, leaving a bright spot in the center, with a darker area around it. Turning on the brake light increased the intensity of the bright spot, but, since the surrounding area was only illuminated by the single-intensity license plate illuminators, all you get is that brighter spot. I have a different light in my wife's bike (same basic housing as Scott's) that uses bunches of red LEDs shining around the sides. Better fill-in for the reflector, but shines red on the license.
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Let's see...tires were mounted and half-balanced last night. When I say half balanced, I mean they were balanced but the weights would not stick to the wheel so I'll have to wash off any soap residue from the mounting. I'd planned on doing that today as I took leave for today and Monday but didn't get that far.
I did manage to work on the electrical stuff today. The ignitor is mounted back in its spot at the bottom of the air box, fuse block, relay, and starter solenoid are back in place. I placed new bullet connectors on the wiring for the headlight and then tried to figure out what went where with the new headlight connector I received from George last year. I like the new connector but the wire color is still confusing for me (red, green, and black). I assume the black is the ground wire but am not sure what's low beam and what's high. Can anyone help?
The eldest also helped out today by installing the brake light to the rear fender after polishing it up. She did a pretty good job considering I didn't help her at all except to hold the wrench after she had problems doing it on her own.
All in all, I'm one step closer to starting her up. I'm hoping I'll have everything in place, especially the oil, and ready to fire it up on Monday. I'm starting to get nervous as I'm just not confident I reconnected everything properly. I know I did the best I could but am hoping I didn't overlook something critical.
Oh, almost forgot; we might have another bike coming into the stable shortly - same engine size but an L model for the eldest. I'll know more in the next few weeks and will let her sign in and tell you all about it. Suffice it to say her eyes lit up yesterday when she saw it and the people who were there as it was a total surprise. I just need to come up with the money before the end of October and then she needs to get her grades up so she can get her permit and start the MSF and drivers education courses.
I did manage to work on the electrical stuff today. The ignitor is mounted back in its spot at the bottom of the air box, fuse block, relay, and starter solenoid are back in place. I placed new bullet connectors on the wiring for the headlight and then tried to figure out what went where with the new headlight connector I received from George last year. I like the new connector but the wire color is still confusing for me (red, green, and black). I assume the black is the ground wire but am not sure what's low beam and what's high. Can anyone help?
The eldest also helped out today by installing the brake light to the rear fender after polishing it up. She did a pretty good job considering I didn't help her at all except to hold the wrench after she had problems doing it on her own.
All in all, I'm one step closer to starting her up. I'm hoping I'll have everything in place, especially the oil, and ready to fire it up on Monday. I'm starting to get nervous as I'm just not confident I reconnected everything properly. I know I did the best I could but am hoping I didn't overlook something critical.
Oh, almost forgot; we might have another bike coming into the stable shortly - same engine size but an L model for the eldest. I'll know more in the next few weeks and will let her sign in and tell you all about it. Suffice it to say her eyes lit up yesterday when she saw it and the people who were there as it was a total surprise. I just need to come up with the money before the end of October and then she needs to get her grades up so she can get her permit and start the MSF and drivers education courses.
I'm a little bit closer to finishing and yet still a long ways to go. After cleaning up some of my work area, I installed new cushions for the speedometer/tachometer and connected the fuse block wiring to my relay after printing off my guide. Then, it was time to work on updating the rear master cylinder. Come to find out, the boot that covers the bottom of the MC had a rip inside one of the folds:
It helped cause the inside rod and circlip to rust:
I brushed off the circlip but decided to replace the rod, internals, and boot to give me a fully functional MC again. It's mounted on the bike with the rear brake cable attached but without the caliper yet:
I say the rear caliper isn't on yet as after mounting the tire onto the wheel the other day, we found some chipped paint along a couple edges so I also taped off the tire and we will repaint the wheel.
Other bits today including repainting the ignition switch, placing a label from Frank Z onto its plastic cover, and then mounting it. I also removed the old decals from the left handle switch but the ones from Frank won't fit my style so I'm going to look into how I can fix that up later.
Finally, I tried to replace the starter button bits after I realized I misplaced it earlier this year when we moved from the old house. So I ordered the button, spring, and top hat contact from Boulevard and received what I thought was everything on Friday. However, once I went through the parts today, I realized the contact was not in the box. As I'm already so close to finishing, I'm not going to worry about that small piece and decided to go find a suitable replacement at Ace. Well, I think someone wanted to make it harder on me and I think I must have laid the spring down on the counter at Ace as I couldn't find it when I returned home.
Fortunately, I received a right handle switch last year for a 82 or 83 550 when I was sent a replacement starter by another forum member. After looking it over, I decided I can still use it on my bike after making a small adjustment to the connector. I just need to find some new nail polish to clean up the button and then repaint the housing.
I'm hoping I can at least fire the engine tomorrow but if not at least I'm a lot closer than I was.
It helped cause the inside rod and circlip to rust:
I brushed off the circlip but decided to replace the rod, internals, and boot to give me a fully functional MC again. It's mounted on the bike with the rear brake cable attached but without the caliper yet:
I say the rear caliper isn't on yet as after mounting the tire onto the wheel the other day, we found some chipped paint along a couple edges so I also taped off the tire and we will repaint the wheel.
Other bits today including repainting the ignition switch, placing a label from Frank Z onto its plastic cover, and then mounting it. I also removed the old decals from the left handle switch but the ones from Frank won't fit my style so I'm going to look into how I can fix that up later.
Finally, I tried to replace the starter button bits after I realized I misplaced it earlier this year when we moved from the old house. So I ordered the button, spring, and top hat contact from Boulevard and received what I thought was everything on Friday. However, once I went through the parts today, I realized the contact was not in the box. As I'm already so close to finishing, I'm not going to worry about that small piece and decided to go find a suitable replacement at Ace. Well, I think someone wanted to make it harder on me and I think I must have laid the spring down on the counter at Ace as I couldn't find it when I returned home.
Fortunately, I received a right handle switch last year for a 82 or 83 550 when I was sent a replacement starter by another forum member. After looking it over, I decided I can still use it on my bike after making a small adjustment to the connector. I just need to find some new nail polish to clean up the button and then repaint the housing.
I'm hoping I can at least fire the engine tomorrow but if not at least I'm a lot closer than I was.
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Repainted the brake rotors and right handle switch; but when I went to put the tach cable on, I found out it seems there's no threads left on the tach drive for some reason even though I know it was good when I received it from Tom. Sadly, I threw away the old one I had because I thought the new one would be good.
Fortunately, Alpha Sports says my tach drive was used on all of the 550s up to 1982. So I found one with a cable from a 1979 550 on Ebay that will be here Wednesday. Hopefully I won't have to go looking for a different setup for the speedometer/tachometer.
Fortunately, Alpha Sports says my tach drive was used on all of the 550s up to 1982. So I found one with a cable from a 1979 550 on Ebay that will be here Wednesday. Hopefully I won't have to go looking for a different setup for the speedometer/tachometer.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Can't help you with what color is what on that light/connector, but I can tell you what position does what.
Looking at the back of the headlight (as if you were riding the bike), the left terminal is the ground, the top terminal is low beam, the right terminal is high beam.
In the stock wiring on the bike, black/white is ground, white is low beam, yellow is high beam.
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There's no plastic bushing on the outside threads the cable plugs into. And it looks like only the first two threads are there so the cable won't even get started enough to do anything.
Can't help you with what color is what on that light/connector, but I can tell you what position does what.
Looking at the back of the headlight (as if you were riding the bike), the left terminal is the ground, the top terminal is low beam, the right terminal is high beam.
In the stock wiring on the bike, black/white is ground, white is low beam, yellow is high beam.
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Thank you Steve. I know you'd told me this before but I couldn't find the notes or a thread where you would have said it.
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