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'81 GS650G not starting anymore??

  • Thread starter Thread starter ssanderson111
  • Start date Start date
My son had the throttle stick about half-way open on his brother's bike. The problem was the clutch cable got stuck in the throttle linkage. Your clutch cable should go down between the intake tubes on 1&2, but should have a guide to keep it away from the throttle linkage. You can see the guide here, at the bottom of the picture.

IMG_4081.jpg


If you don't have that guide, you can make a simple one using a coat hanger and mount it to the intake boot bolt.

Anything to keep the cable away from the throttle. :eek:

By the way, even though it seems to be running OK right now, it will do MUCH better if you take the time to strip and dip the carbs, then replace all the o-rings in them. The o-rings are available rather inexpensively from a forum at cycleorings.com.

A valve adjustment should also be performed, it can be done while waiting the few days for your o-rings to get there. See the end of my sig for info on the valve adjust.


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The answers to your problems have been laid out on a silver platter. Go to BassCliff's site and read the tutorials. There is a great one on valve adjustment and carb cleaning. If those cables are old, buy new ones, they are cheap. When I was a "poor student" not too many years ago, I tore right into the carbs and valves on my 86 GS550E. I had 4 angry roommates for awhile, but they got over it. Gather the tools and parts to do the jobs now, once you've done that, start with the valves. If you need shims, post here, I'm sure someone will be glad to help, while waiting for shims to arrive tear down the carbs. Since it should take you at least 4 days to do the carbs the shims should be in and it can all go back together at once. It's really easy to do the work and doesn't require a lot of hours to do it, mostly waiting for carbs in the dip, or you can take it to a shop and pay triple the cost of a DIY job.
 
O-rings are on their way. Picked up some feeler gauges yesterday. Plan to tear the carbs apart and adjust the valves in a week or two when I have time. Do I need anything else to tune the carbs after I get them all put back together? I've read over the article on how to clean the carbs, but I don't recall it containing any info on how to tune them?

Guys, I REALLY appreciate all the help. There is no way I could do any of this stuff without you. Thank you so much for your time and willingness to help me out. If I have more problems or can't figure something out I'll post again.
 
Looks like basscliff's site contains everything I'll need. Thanks again!
 
Do I need anything else to tune the carbs after I get them all put back together? I've read over the article on how to clean the carbs, but I don't recall it containing any info on how to tune them?
As far as "tuning" them, there's not too much to do. Are you running stock airbox and exhaust? If so, then stock jets in the carbs will work just fine. Start with the idle mixture adjustment screw about three full turns out from lightly seated. When the bike is warmed up, sync the carbs (you will need a "special" tool for that). Once the carbs are synched, adjust each of the mixture screws for highest idle speed (adjust the master idle speed screw as necessary).

The "special" tool you will need to sync the carbs is something you will need to use every so often as part of your tune-ups, so plan on getting one. You are looking for a multi-cylinder manometer. Generally accepted as the best, and not much more money than the rest, is the Morgan Carbtune. As of today, the exchange rate (it comes from England) shows it at $91.29. Some dealers will charge you close to that much to sync the carbs, even though it usually takes less than 15 minutes, start to finish.

By the way, if you get into reading ALL the info on BassCliff's site, keep in mind that ALL of the different service manuals say that you should adjust your valves before you sync your carbs. Adjusting the valves is not that hard. The hardest part is figuring out what shim you need to use. I have developed an Excel spreadsheet that will help you figure that out. See my sig for ordering details.

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Hi,

After you've dipped your carbs you will want to "bench sync" them. This procedure will tune them enough to get your bike running. Fine tune the idle using the "highest idle" method or the Colortune. Then a vacuum sync will really dial them in. You'll need a special tool for that procedure. The Carbtune is a favorite but a set of vacuum gauges will work too. I have a Carbtune with the Carbtool and you are close enough that we might be able to get together, schedule allowing.

EDIT: It looks like Mr. Steve hit the <Enter> key a couple minutes before I did. :p

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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