'81 GS650GL - Adjusting Cam Chain Tensioner

[Anonymous]

I would like to know if my cam chain tensioner is working properly. I've read some articles that claim they can 'stick'.
Can the tensioner be adjusted while it is still on the bike? If so, what is the basic procedure?
If it has to be removed, is it as simple as removing the two bolts and pulling it out? Are there a few more steps involved? Does pulling it right out create too much slack in the chain which could throw things out of whack?

A lot of questions, I know, but it's something I'm not too familiar with.

Thanks for all replies.

 

[Anonymous]

Anyone?

 

[JJ]

Chain tensioner

Chain tensioner

Ummmm... You're signature says GS 650 GLX. If that is accurate, then you have shaft drive. If it is a chain-drive, then I believe the correct model designation is GS650LX.

Regardless, I'm sorry to say that I can't help. My bike is shaft-drive, and my manuals don't cover chains.

 

[Anonymous]

My bike is a shaft drive. G=shaft, L=cruiser, X=1981.

I'm concerned about the cam chain, not drive chain.

 

[JJ]

Cam chain!!

Cam chain!!

What can I say, besides "DUHHHHHHHHH?!?!" Forgive my mistake. I guess that when my mind saw "chain", combined with "GS650GLX", it scrambled momentarily. Not an infrequent occurrence these days!

Anyway, the factory service manual says not to adjust the cam chain tensioner between rebuilds, but I have read other posts here from people that have done it. I haven't done it myself, but perhaps someone that has can offer you advice and describe their technique. Perhaps it just needs dissasembly, cleaning, and re-installation.

According to the manual, you should loosen the locknut, tighten the stop screw, then simply remove the two bolts holding it onto the engine.

 

[earlfor]

Re: '81 GS650GL - Adjusting Cam Chain Tensioner

Duke

The cam chain tensioner is constantly bathed in oil and unlike a drive chain is not prone to stretching. If you are hearing no unusual noises or rattling etc, there is no reason to reset it.
When installed, the plunger is locked fully compressed, the housing then installed on the cylinder head, and then the plunger is released to take op the camchain slack. At this point the plunger is locked down on this setting. I would leave it alone as it is likely working just fine. If for some reason, the camchain were to jump the tensioner, or the tensioner was not engaged, trust me, you would KNOW as it would sound like 50 demented rats running around in there banging hammers on the inside of the engine.

Earl

I would like to know if my cam chain tensioner is working properly. I've read some articles that claim they can 'stick'.
Can the tensioner be adjusted while it is still on the bike? If so, what is the basic procedure?
If it has to be removed, is it as simple as removing the two bolts and pulling it out? Are there a few more steps involved? Does pulling it right out create too much slack in the chain which could throw things out of whack?

A lot of questions, I know, but it's something I'm not too familiar with.

Thanks for all replies.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the input.

Its not that I'm bored and looking for things to fix that aren't broken, but there is that intermittent metallic knock at idle with the engine warm that I'm trying to eliminate, or at least narrow down the source of.
The last thing I want to do is open another can of worms and start monkeying with the adjuster if its working fine.

I guess I may have to live with the mysterious explanation of "cam end float" as the source of the knock.

 

[earlfor]

Cam "end float" is a very probable cause of the noise youre hearing and if that is indeed what it is, it is harmless. If youre
using a synthetic or synthetic oil blend, changing to a 10 w 40 or
(what I use) Castrol 20 w 50 will reduce engine mechanical
noises noticably. Also, putting too much oil in the crankcase will cause engine noises and is very hard on an engine.


Earl

Thanks for the input.

Its not that I'm bored and looking for things to fix that aren't broken, but there is that intermittent metallic knock at idle with the engine warm that I'm trying to eliminate, or at least narrow down the source of.
The last thing I want to do is open another can of worms and start monkeying with the adjuster if its working fine.

I guess I may have to live with the mysterious explanation of "cam end float" as the source of the knock.

 

[TheNose]

I pulled mine off and checked it to see if I could get rid of the clanking noise at idle. I used the instructions in my manual, and it was fairly simple to do. But, I didn't find anything wrong with it, and I still have the noise. I'm going to have to believe all the people that say it's cam end float and is completly harmless. I think I will switch to 10W50 oil for the hot Texas summers though. Hopefully it will help quieten the clanking as Earl states in his reply.


Terry