82-1100e bolt found in sprocket case.

[Gregory]

I am fixing a few things on my friends 82 1100e. There was oil and or grease dripping down in the kickstand area (not from stator cover area)

I removed the sprocket cover and discovered it was quite oily and greasy. I also found a couple extra items.

1. One was a partial dried out gasket or ring. If it would have been complete it would have been about 3" in diameter

2. A 3/4" long Phillips head bolt, although it had no threads and has a nub on the end.

3. I did notice that two of the three Phillips head screws on the sprocket are missing.

He didn't drop off his repair manual with the bike so I am in the dark about what happened and what to repair.

 

[Grand Rouge]

A Decent Answer from one who has had same observation

A Decent Answer from one who has had same observation

Assuming the 1100 has the original front sprocket (15 Teeth...630 chain) the screws are from the metal / rubber cushion that is outboard and inboard on the sprocket. The rubber does deteriorate, metal plates loosen up, screws come out etc. And too, sprocket usually ends up loose on the output shaft.

If the cushion assembly is removed, sprocket is too narrow by about 6MM to be properly tightened. It will line up just fine but would require a spacer on the outside.

Though not in your question, a great fix as I am thinking you already know is to spend about $200.00 for quality Sunstar Sprockets, proper spacer and a 530 X ring or similar chain. Did that on both of my 1100E's.

 

[Gregory]

Thank you GR. I am sure he will want to fix it as cheaply as possible. I guess I will take off the sprocket and see what is there.

BTW it is a 15 tooth sprocket. I took it off and it is in pretty bad shape but I think the plates that have the three bolts/screws can be reused. So does the rubber gasket just get mounted between the engine and the sprocket assembly?

Will that fix the oil seepage?

 

[jona]

It is, and GR is right about the conversion. Go to "Z1enterprises.com" to do it easily.

 

[Gregory]

Here is a picture of the parts I have left:

And here is a picture of the engine area..

So if he just wants to just scab everything back together... what parts are a must have? And will that fix the oil seepage?

If he wants to do the conversion, does Z1 sell everything I will need?

 

[chuck hahn]

Say you have deleted or moved the pics Greg. They arent showing up at my end anyway.

 

[Gregory]

Say you have deleted or moved the pics Greg. They arent showing up at my end anyway.

ok will fix... 1st time using photobucket

 

[Gregory]

BUMP: Need More info Please

BUMP: Need More info Please

BUMP:

So if he just wants to just scab everything back together... what parts are a must have? And will that fix the oil seepage?

If he wants to do the conversion, does Z1 sell everything I will need?

When I went to the parts fisch it confuses me because I don't know if I am missing a c-clip, O-ring, washer or what.... I DO know I need three new bolts for the sprocket housing although they aren't listed in the parts fisch.

__________________

Here is a picture of the parts I have left:

And here is a picture of the engine area..

So if he just wants to just scab everything back together... what parts are a must have? And will that fix the oil seepage?

If he wants to do the conversion, does Z1 sell everything I will need?

 

[Gregory]

Assuming the 1100 has the original front sprocket (15 Teeth...630 chain) the screws are from the metal / rubber cushion that is outboard and inboard on the sprocket. The rubber does deteriorate, metal plates loosen up, screws come out etc. And too, sprocket usually ends up loose on the output shaft.

If the cushion assembly is removed, sprocket is too narrow by about 6MM to be properly tightened. It will line up just fine but would require a spacer on the outside.

Though not in your question, a great fix as I am thinking you already know is to spend about $200.00 for quality Sunstar Sprockets, proper spacer and a 530 X ring or similar chain. Did that on both of my 1100E's.

Ok now that I have been looking on the Z1 website and on ebay I do think I understand that the rubber part I found was between the sprocket and the plates that bolt to the sprocket.

When buying a new aftermarket sprocket, none of the three bolt sandwich plates will come with the sprocket, therefore will also need a spacer.

Now I assume, regarding the oil seepage, that is another issue entirely. Hopefully the loose sprocket didn't cause the oil ring inside to be damaged.

I see there is now another thread on oil seepage so I will follow that one.

 

[Grand Rouge]

Gregory, PM Sent re sprocket.

Gregory, PM Sent re sprocket.

When you get the oil / debris washed off, where is the 'suspected' source of the leak?

 

[Gregory]

When you get the oil / debris washed off, where is the 'suspected' source of the leak?

Thanks for asking GR. It noticed that overnight it is not leaking yet.

I just picked up the key from him and am now going to run it a while to see if/where the leak develops.

 

[Guest]

The rubber is just a damper, didn't use it on my 530 conversion. Can't tell any difference. 6mm spacer on the outside of the sprocket.

 

[Gregory]

Thanks to much help from Grand Rouge outside of the forum I did get everything back together with the 530 conversion. If I had it to do over again I think I would buy the master link that is NOT the riveted kind.

Here are a few pics of the new chain and sprockets. This is the Master Link that I "hope" has the pins flanges enough.

Here is the new front sprocket, and you can see that the gear indicator sensor that was leaking has stopped. I took it off and turned the o-ring around and tightened it down hard. After a few days there isn't a drop although if you touch your finger to the bolt it does have a smidge of oil seeping... not gonna worry about that right now though:

And rear sprocket:

After I got it all back together I took it for a ride and found a couple other things that need to be sorted out before I give the bike back to him.

Should I start a new thread with those questions?

The main issue is that it is idling too fast and the cable is adjusted all the way down... I hope this doesn't mean complete carb cleaning and the works.

2nd is the petcock is only working on prime, so I am hoping I can take it off and clean it and reinstall and have it work.

3rd is the rear brake needs cleaning and/or bleeding because although it works, it doesn't grab very well.

4th The front brake signal wire is unattached so I will either have to fix it of get one of those hydraulic actuated banjo bolt things for him.

 

[Guest]

Thanks to much help from Grand Rouge outside of the forum I did get everything back together with the 530 conversion. If I had it to do over again I think I would buy the master link that is NOT the riveted kind.

Here are a few pics of the new chain and sprockets. This is the Master Link that I "hope" has the pins flanges enough.

Here is the new front sprocket, and you can see that the gear indicator sensor that was leaking has stopped. I took it off and turned the o-ring around and tightened it down hard. After a few days there isn't a drop although if you touch your finger to the bolt it does have a smidge of oil seeping... not gonna worry about that right now though:

And rear sprocket:

After I got it all back together I took it for a ride and found a couple other things that need to be sorted out before I give the bike back to him.

Should I start a new thread with those questions?

The main issue is that it is idling too fast and the cable is adjusted all the way down... I hope this doesn't mean complete carb cleaning and the works.

2nd is the petcock is only working on prime, so I am hoping I can take it off and clean it and reinstall and have it work.

3rd is the rear brake needs cleaning and/or bleeding because although it works, it doesn't grab very well.

4th The front brake signal wire is unattached so I will either have to fix it of get one of those hydraulic actuated banjo bolt things for him.

Get one of those banjo bolt pressure switches, I replaced both of my brake mechanical switches with those, works pretty sweet.

Check the rear pads, they may have gotten something on them, then bleed it out. Check the brake fluid line, make sure it doesn't have a bad spot. Could be a new set could solve 90% of the problem, check the fronts too.

Petcock, eh, that could work though chances are he needs a new petcock.

Check the idle set screw, might be adjusted up too far. Also check for air leaks around the rubber boots. Could be time for a complete carb rebuild and new boots. Let us not forget when was the last valve adjustment done?

You just thought you were done lol.

 

[Gregory]

Thanks Mr. Bill, Yes I know, but since it is not mine and I am doing all this as a favor, was hoping NOT to have to do the works right now. I just want to make sure it is safe for him.

 

[Gregory]

Get one of those banjo bolt pressure switches, I replaced both of my brake mechanical switches with those, works pretty sweet.l.

Hi Bill, I got on ebay and dennis kirk, I see more than one size offered... do you have any idea what size the gs1100 front master cylinder banjo is?

 

[Gregory]

I think this thread is done since it has gone so far from the sprocket issue (my fault).

I did sort out the petcock--- the PO had the spring on the wrong side of the diaphragm.

Banjo bolt size solved - 10mm

Idle knob located and turned down, stumbles but determined it is sucking air causing LEAN condition and stumbling at low idle (on another thread now)

Thread Completed

- Thanks everyone for the help, what a great group of people.