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82 1100e valve adjustment - what parts

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS1100ez
  • Start date Start date
G

GS1100ez

Guest
gonna be adjusting my valves
i have the writeups
and i have the manual

what gasket should i go with?
bikebandit?
Realgasket?-which one?
ebay?-how many holes?

what else do i need?
the manual said something about o-rings under the phillips head screws?
manual also says to use silicone to make sure it seals well, but the one writeup i read said use just wd40?

i have feelers, and i plan on making the adjuser

thank you
anything else i should do while i have the cover off?
gonna change the spark plugs then too
 
The two bolts that go through the valve cover at the cam cap ends need an o-ring. Check a microfiche. Change all the Phillip to allen. Trust me
Valve cover gasket, 9mm wrench and feeler guage.
 
To be more specific, a .004 inch feeler gauge. What size metric I don't know or care as I use inch measurements. Ray.
 
jabberjoe87 said:
realgaskets if they make them for kats
Click to expand...


which one tho?
1980/1985 KATANA 750, 1000, 1100
(20 BOLT HOLE GASKET FITS TO 24 BOLT HOLE COVER)

rg-gs3000.jpg


1980/1985 SUZUKI GS750, GS1000, GS1100
(16 BOLT HOLE GASKET FITS TO 20 BOLT HOLE COVER)


rg-gs2000.jpg
 
Be very careful with valve cover gaskets

Be very careful with valve cover gaskets

The 82/83 GS1100E has what is know as 24 bolt pattern v.s. 20 bolt pattern for 80-81. It is easy to tell the diff. If there are two screw holes in the two protruding segment (center front and center rear) for the cam chain tunnel that is the 82-83. If there are none then it is the older. The top one in your pic is the newer and is what you likely have on the 82 GS1100EZ.

Also because the tach drive mounts in the valve cover but engages into the cam, the tolerance allowed on the valve cover gasket THICKNESS is fairly precise. I think Cometic specifies 0.047". If the gasket is too tall, then the tach drive gear will not full engage into the cam gear and it will grind down the gear on your cam. At that point you kiss your stock tach good-bye or pony up for new cams.

I would go either stock or cometic on the valve cover gasket. Real gaskets have had problems on the 16V motors. An expensive lesson.

Pos
 
The two bolts that go through the valve cover directly over the cam ends have an o-ring. It is a washer with a rubber center. I've bought them several times and they are in the microfiche.
 
posplayr said:
The 82/83 GS1100E has what is know as 24 bolt pattern v.s. 20 bolt pattern for 80-81. It is easy to tell the diff. If there are two screw holes in the two protruding segment (center front and center rear) for the cam chain tunnel that is the 82-83. If there are none then it is the older. The top one in your pic is the newer and is what you likely have on the 82 GS1100EZ.

Also because the tach drive mounts in the valve cover but engages into the cam, the tolerance allowed on the valve cover gasket THICKNESS is fairly precise. I think Cometic specifies 0.047". If the gasket is too tall, then the tach drive gear will not full engage into the cam gear and it will grind down the gear on your cam. At that point you kiss your stock tach good-bye or pony up for new cams.

I would go either stock or cometic on the valve cover gasket. Real gaskets have had problems on the 16V motors. An expensive lesson.

Pos
Click to expand...

Just a heads up....

Real Gaskets will be producing a thinner Gasket for the 16v engines with tach drives in the valve covers. Their earlier gaskets worked fine(they were thinner, approx .030 difference), but later gaskets were too thick to allow proper engagement of the tach drive and cam. Too be continued......
 
moto_dan said:
Just a heads up....

Real Gaskets will be producing a thinner Gasket for the 16v engines with tach drives in the valve covers. Their earlier gaskets worked fine(they were thinner, approx .030 difference), but later gaskets were too thick to allow proper engagement of the tach drive and cam. Too be continued......
Click to expand...


so by will be producting, you mean they are not yet producing?
 
Until RealGaskets come out with their new thinner valve cover gasket, just get stock one and don't worry about the tach gears. Torque it to specs and ride. Recheck the torque after a hundred miles or so.

I applied a very thin coat of high temp grease to both sides of my gasket. Very thin, more like a film. Don't go gobbing it all over the place. Helps hold the gasket in place when reinstalling too. I plan on being able to reuse the gasket a couple times.:)
 
posplayr said:
I would go either stock or cometic on the valve cover gasket. Real gaskets have had problems on the 16V motors. An expensive lesson.
Click to expand...

Is it safe to assume that the Real Gaskets cover gaskets are OK to use on a motor without the tach drive in the cover like the Katanas? I'm having trouble sourcing the correct OEM gasket for a GS1000SZ.
 
Is it safe to assume that the Real Gaskets cover gaskets are OK to use on a motor without the tach drive in the cover like the Katanas? I'm having trouble sourcing the correct OEM gasket for a GS1000SZ. .
Click to expand...

I'm only experienced with the tach drive versions, but that would be my only concern. The 8V guys seem to love the Realgaskets.


Is the GS1000SZ a electronic tach like the GS1100ESD? That must be what that little cover is for I have seen over the tach hole.

Pos
 
This is the email I received when I recently ordered one.

Gary on the RG-GS200 gasket if you have a tachometer drive in the valve cover this gasket will NOT work. We have found that the silicone replacement gasket is taller and misaligns the gears. This misalignment will cause the teeth to strip. If you rocker cover does not have a tach drive email me back and I will ship. We hope to have a new gasket for valve covers with tach drive late summer.

Thanks Mark
 
got everything adjusted last night

they were very tight
couldnt even fit 3mm in there if i tried
i set them all so that 4 fit in, but 5 couldnt

got everything back together
started right up

idled down real nice quiet, no noise at all except for what was comnin out of the tailpipe, then the normall light chattering came back from the engine


during dissasembly i noticed i didnt/dont have a breather hose from the valve breather to the air box, so i have to get some hose for that

but everything went well, no leaks, didnt ride it to work this morning cause it wsa about 33* but ill take it out later
 
GS1100ez said:
got everything adjusted last night

they were very tight
couldnt even fit 3mm in there if i tried
i set them all so that 4 fit in, but 5 couldnt

got everything back together
Click to expand...

Hopefully, it's a typo but your 1100E 16v clearance should be between .08-.12mm. If you meant between .003-.005in then you're OK.
I always use metric so I don't mess myself up:confused:
 
Last edited:
lurch12_2000 said:
Hopefully, it's a typo but your 1100E 16v clearance should be between .08-.12mm. If you meant between .003-.005in then you're OK.
I always use metric so I don't mess myself up:confused:
Click to expand...


yea i ment thousantds not mm

i set them all at 4=.004
 
GS1100EZ, did you replace those o-rings that were mentioned when you adjusted your valves?
 
maro said:
GS1100EZ, did you replace those o-rings that were mentioned when you adjusted your valves?
Click to expand...


if the o rings mentioned were the ones which went under the phillips head screws at the edges of the cover then yes

it not, then no haha

put 200miles on it since i did them
it leaks...
 
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