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'82 1100L clutch problem (loose nut)

  • Thread starter Thread starter MoPar
  • Start date Start date
M

MoPar

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I took my clutch apart assuming that either the steels, frictions, or springs are shot based on the fact that I couldn't loosen the adjuster nut far enough to keep it from slipping and not drag.* However, I notice that the nut is loose on the hub. I searched and found this to be common :rolleyes:. My question is why? My clutch didn't make any chatter. Can I just re-tighten, or does something need to be replaced :(. The bike only has 14K, already I've had to replace the output gears in the trans, so this doesn't sit well with me. As for frictions (steels look good) and springs, should I get OE or aftermarket? If aftermarket what brand?* Thanks
 
Hi babes. Just do it back up to the torque.setting.or use a little locking compound or a lock nut on the end...
As for plates and springs... EBC or Original make are good... Dont be tempted by Heavy duty springs, unless you got a grip ov steel and biceps to match...

Good luck.
Xxx
 
The big nut is the weak link. Aluminum. I would replace it with a steel APE nut.
 
The stock nut is steel, but not the strongest variety. A GS1150 nut is stronger, but not as beefy as that (expensive) APE nut.
 
Well I measured my frictions, they run between .116 and .119. and the springs measure about 1.525. According to the clymer they're both in spec... The loose hub wouldn't cause drag/flare would it? Should I just tighten the nut, scuff the steels, and replace the springs? (Actually the steels look good, no blueing or warping and they're still ruff/gritty, so maybe scuffing would be a bad idea.) Are the EBC HD springs really that stiff. I'd rather have a stiff clutch than a burnt clutch :\. Thanks
 
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It surprises me that Suzuki didn't include a washer with bendable tabs to lock this nut, as it does seem to be common for it to come loose.
 
It surprises me that Suzuki didn't include a washer with bendable tabs to lock this nut, as it does seem to be common for it to come loose.

Actually, they DO have such as washer, only it's not sufficient to keep the nut from loosening, but it usually keeps it from backing off all the way.
 
Actually, they DO have such as washer, only it's not sufficient to keep the nut from loosening, but it usually keeps it from backing off all the way.
You're right! Maybe that's what made me think of it.

A mind is such a terrible thing to lose. LOL!
 
Any ideas as to why my clutch was slipping when the springs and frictions spec'd out, and the steels looked good? Can the springs measure out and still not have sufficient pressure? How stiff are the HD springs offered by EBC at the lever?
 
The friction plates get hard and don't grip as well when they get old. You can try removing all the metal plates and roughen them up with 100 grit sandpaper or media blasting. Also replace the springs with new stock ones or add a few aftermarket springs, which increase hand effort but help the clutch. I'd start cheap and then move up from there as needed.
 
The friction plates get hard and don't grip as well when they get old. You can try removing all the metal plates and roughen them up with 100 grit sandpaper or media blasting. Also replace the springs with new stock ones or add a few aftermarket springs, which increase hand effort but help the clutch. I'd start cheap and then move up from there as needed.
The steels look good yet they seem to still have a media blast finish. I dont have a media blaster so I dont think I should do any sanding etc. I'll get some ebc HD springs, but if its too stiff (I doubt it) I'll replace a couple with new stock like you said. Do I need to soak my old clutches? Also, is there any tricks that'll save the gasket for future disassembly (petroleum jelly or light film of oil on one side). Thanks
 
I replaced my oem springs with heavy duty in hopes of stopping a slippage issue. It is a bit stiff, not all that bad though. Clutch hasn't slipped in over 2 years and I've beat the hell out of it trying. Lube your clutch cable well, it helps a lot.
 
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