'82 GS 750TZ-Lets get this charging system sorted

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Awaiting stator, gasket and replacement screws for some that were buggered inside the stator cover. While I’m waiting, I’m going through my Clymer manual and find this.
Is Bond No. 4 some type of RTV compound? Is it necessary? I put a gasket there years ago when I changed the starter motor and it never leaked.

Also, I plan to use anti seize on the cover bolts when I put the cover back on. Is it ok to use anti seize on the 3 stator screws and stator wire clip screws inside the cover (in oil)? Don’t know why it wouldn’t be. But I’ve never use the stuff before. So I’m asking the experts.

Edit: caption reads: “Apply a thin layer if Bond No. 4 approximately 1 in. on each side of the crankcase seam behind the alternator cover.”

 

[posplayr]

You should get a JIS screwdriver set to reuse the existing screws or get some stainless hex cap screws. Use anti-seize for stainless in aluminum(also apply sparingly)

I don't recall the exact product suggested for Suzuki but these are several equivalents like Yamabond

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

The Suzuki No 4 is NLA. I found Hondabond HT, Hondaond 4, many things by Threebond on Amazon or this Permatex 29132.
I'm guessing that which one doesn't really matter. Just pick one and use it. My question is, do I put the bond just in the 2 areas indicated in the manual AND still use the full new Rick's stator cover gasket I have on order from Bikebandit? Would this not cause an un-even thickness? Sorry if this is a dumb question.

 

[tom203]

I removed my stator cover multiple times and never used any sealer...

 

[GSXR7ED]

I removed my stator cover multiple times and never used any sealer...

I'm thinking there's a gasket. Looking at IPB now.


Ed

 

[Steve]

I think I read a post somewhere here that I can put a 2x4 under the left side of the bike center stand so it tips the bike enough to remove the stator cover without first draining the oil. Did I dream this or is this possible?

Very possible. Note the new gasket in the second picture.

I'm thinking there's a gasket. Looking at IPB now.

There is definitely a gasket, but Suzuki was advising to add a bit of sealer along with the gasket.

.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Steve,

You never disappoint.



Ed

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Thanks all, bike is leaning on a 2x4 ala Steve, stator is out, just waiting for my new stator, gasket and screws. I'll use some kind of goop (not sure exactly what yet but leaning to the Permatex 29132 shown above that i can get cheap from Amazon) just where the manual shows, just a smear, then the new gasket from Rick's. Then just a dab of anti seize on the cover bolts. Wire everything up to my new SH775, no more headlamp loop, SPG, test charging system to make sure I didn't botch it all, change the oil. THEN I RIDE AGAIN! (in theory)

I don't want to beat a dead horse about what sealer to use in place of the Suzuki Bond no. 4 that is NLA, but all of the descriptions of all the various sealers on the market seem so similar to me. There are a lot of threads here going back years about what goop to use where. I know everyone has their favorite and asking for opinions on which one to use, or not use, or use none at all, can instigate a p###ing contest. I really do appreciate all of the feedback. That's why I'm here. If anyone has a objection to using the Permatex 29132, please tell me why and recommend a specific alternative. If Yamabond, which one, no. 4 or no. 5, etc.

 

[posplayr]

Thanks all, bike is leaning on a 2x4 ala Steve, stator is out, just waiting for my new stator, gasket and screws. I'll use some kind of goop (not sure exactly what yet but leaning to the Permatex 29132 shown above that i can get cheap from Amazon) just where the manual shows, just a smear, then the new gasket from Rick's. Then just a dab of anti seize on the cover bolts. Wire everything up to my new SH775, no more headlamp loop, SPG, test charging system to make sure I didn't botch it all, change the oil. THEN I RIDE AGAIN! (in theory)

I don't want to beat a dead horse about what sealer to use in place of the Suzuki Bond no. 4 that is NLA, but all of the descriptions of all the various sealers on the market seem so similar to me. There are a lot of threads here going back years about what goop to use where. I know everyone has their favorite and asking for opinions on which one to use, or not use, or use none at all, can instigate a p###ing contest. I really do appreciate all of the feedback. That's why I'm here. If anyone has a objection to using the Permatex 29132, please tell me why and recommend a specific alternative. If Yamabond, which one, no. 4 or no. 5, etc.

This only works on Black motors for gasketed covers.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-821...30846251&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+ultra+black


This is for sealing the cases (permanently)

SUZUKI BOND (1207B)BLACK 100G
P/N 99104-31140

Just enter the number here

https://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/partsearch/suzuki


Another note: The newer GS1100ED OEM stator cover gaskets have a layer of silicon on the bottom perimeter. I still added a layer of the Ultra Black around the entire p[reimter (one side only)

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Stator arrived. the ESG014 I bought on Amazon did, indeed, come with the rubber block/grommet/gland. Wire colors are the same as OEM and I expected them to all 3 be yellow. Should I be concerned that I didn't get what I thought I bought? Packaging looks legit. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E8JXEeRRJX4JijKDoCmDC3CKTxM1CwMa

While I'm waiting for the gasket, etc., I decided to test fit the rubber block in the cover and it stands proud of the cover surface compared to the original (top pic) even with me pressing on it with my thumb as hard as I can.
Can I count on this squishing flush when I tighten the cover bolts or is this doomed to leak? Should I try to shave it somehow? How? Don't want to F this up. One step forward, two steps back. :apologetic::disgust:

Or maybe I'm worried about nothing and should just put the darn thing back together and see what happens.

 

[posplayr]

The block should compress, you cut it down it will probably leak.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Thanks Jim. That's what I needed to hear.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Well I've got everything buttoned up and before I post new Quick Test numbers, I think I may need a new/different battery charger/maintainer. I have been using this Walmart cheapo for years.View attachment 55608

[/IMG]
I Had the new battery charging for 2 days. It seems to have quit at 12.5v. Battery is new and also a cheap Walmart everstart. I've only used it for testing last few weeks. I may upgrade to AGM next time if all this works out but wasn't ready to do that yet. What should I look for in a new charger/ maintainer that is better than this but not cost me a fortune.

I made a really stupid mistake 2 days ago and Hooked the battery leads up backwards. I tried to start the bike this way and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't turn over. It cranked and cranked but wouldn't even sputter. I slapped myself very hard in the forehead when I looked at the battery and realized my mistake. Got eveything hooked up correctly and she started right up. Could I have ruined the battery maybe, or something else?

So my initial new quick test starting with a battery at 12.5 look promising and it is charging, but I'm going to take a ride and report after I see if I can get the battery a little higher.

Jim, i still don't think I understand you statement:
"Fill 14.5v at the battery for faster battery recovery after starting.
Is this something I can achieve with a different charger/battery?

 

[posplayr]

Well I've got eveything buttoned up and before I post new Quick Test numbers, I think I may need a new/different battery charger/maintainer. I have been using this Walmart cheapo for years.View attachment 55608 I Had the new battery charging for 2 days. It seems to have quit at 12.5v. Battery is new and also a cheap Walmart everstart. I've only used it for testing last few weeks. I may upgrade to AGM next time if all this works out but wasn't ready to do that yet. What should I look for in a new charger/ maintainer that is better than this but not cost me a fortune.

I made a really stupid mistake 2 days ago and Hooked the battery leads up backwards. I tried to start the bike this way and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't turn over. It cranked and cranked but wouldn't even sputter. I slapped myself very hard in the forehead when I looked at the battery and realized my mistake. Got eveything hooked up correctly and she started right up. Could I have ruined the battery maybe, or something else?

So my initial new quick test starting with a battery at 12.5 look promising and it is charging, but I'm going to take a ride and report after I see if I can get the battery a little higher.

Jim, i still don't think I understand you statement:
"Full 14.5v at the battery for faster battery recovery after starting.
Is this something I can achieve with a different charger/battery?

I corrected that word. The higher the voltage the more current flows and the faster the recharge of the battery. However, the maximum recommended voltage for lead acid batteries is about 14.5V.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

So, after a 1/2 hour ride and removing seat, airbox, etc. to get to the battery. Battery tested at 12.81 when I returned. I let it rest for 45 min. Battery settled out at 12.73v.

Here are my Quick Test Results:

1) Key Off - 12.73 VDC
2) Key On - 12.30 VDC
3) idle 1500 RPM - 12.73 VDC
4) at 2500 RPM - 13.51 VDC
5) at 5000 RPM - 13.95 VDC
6) Key off - 13.00 VDC

Review of work done:
•Replaced Stator w/ ES Stator, new stator cover gasket (no leaks, YAY), etc. wired all 3 leads to....
•New (used) SH775 Series R/R.
•Eliminated "headlamp loop"
•SPG-All ground wires in the vicinity mounted to Starter Solenoid mounting bolt. I ground wire from there to (-) batterty terminal.
•All connections that I could get to cleaned with vinegar/salt, water/baking soda, then Deoxit. And Dielectric grease applied wherever I thought it might help keep moisture out of connections.

How did I do?

 

[posplayr]

You are charging much better but about 0.5v low. Do the stator phase a test to measure the voltages drops ; see if it on high side or low side.

Voltage drops also measured at 5K RPM

http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

Step #2 - Measure Positive Lead Voltage Drop
Step #3 - Measure Negative Lead Voltage Drop​

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

So after a couple of days of riding the bike to work, then putting new spade connectors on the RR + (which I initially, admittedly, had forgotten and taped up after cleaning them:shame, I have some new quick test #s:

1) Key Off - 12.85 VDC
2) Key On - 12.3 VDC
3) idle 1500 RPM - 12.78 VDC
4) at 2500 RPM - 14.05 VDC
5) at 5000 RPM - 14.64 VDC
6) Key off - 13.26 VDC

then went right to the measuring voltage drops:

Step #2 - Pos. lead volt. drop = .19 (good, right??)
Step #3 - Neg. lead volt. drop = .004 (I think this means my SPG is strong??)

 

[posplayr]

So after a couple of days of riding the bike to work, then putting new spade connectors on the RR + (which I initially, admittedly, had forgotten and taped up after cleaning them:shame, I have some new quick test #s:

1) Key Off - 12.85 VDC
2) Key On - 12.3 VDC
3) idle 1500 RPM - 12.78 VDC
4) at 2500 RPM - 14.05 VDC
5) at 5000 RPM - 14.64 VDC
6) Key off - 13.26 VDC

then went right to the measuring voltage drops:

Step #2 - Pos. lead volt. drop = .19 (good, right??)
Step #3 - Neg. lead volt. drop = .004 (I think this means my SPG is strong??)

View attachment 55620

Much better. That 0.19v will probably be hard to get rid of, but the 14.65V is more than enough.

And yes the SPG is working very well.

You should be able to confidently ride around not worrying about your charging system. You can look at it periodically but be confident in its operation.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Jim,
I can't thank you enough for walking me through this. Also thanks to Steve, tom, Redman, fastbysuzuki, Ed for your valuable input. You guys are the reason this site is the absolute best.

Time to ride!

 

[GSXR7ED]

The gentleman mentioned are the best, period!


Ed