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andrews gs
Guest
Has anyone ever welded the flywheel magneto to the crankshaft itself so u don't have a spinning issue when givin high throttle or in my case throttle anytime.
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Its tough to remove... until it removes itself. Then the damage is done. Lap and clean the surfaces thoroughly. Get some red locktite and hit the nut with a hardcore impact gun. BTDT....
Mine is still holding after this....
Mine is still holding after this....
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andrews gs
Guest
It has came off the crank 3 times now I have smoothed it out used red locktite and still came off the third time when I launched hard on the street.
the ones i have had tigged...nut to rotor/nut to crank end have ended up either coming loose again or breaking the crank snout at the main bearing.
this is a no win unless you want to patch it to sell it...
other choice is VERY EXPENSIVE to upgrade to a large taper crank and all the parts.
better off to look for a deal on an 83 1100E/ES engine or any year 1150.
this is why i hate the silver engines on a street bike...
this is a no win unless you want to patch it to sell it...
other choice is VERY EXPENSIVE to upgrade to a large taper crank and all the parts.
better off to look for a deal on an 83 1100E/ES engine or any year 1150.
this is why i hate the silver engines on a street bike...
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alaska81GS1100E
Guest
I've got the same issue, visible damage on the crank of my 1100EX. Starter clutch is put back together with new rollers and springs and bearings look good. I'm guessing I need to file off high spots on the crank and clean.
Question #1: How much red loctite do I actually use on the crank during reinstallation?
Question #2: The wave washer that is behind the starter gear has a taper. The manual says to face the tapered edge in towards the motor. I'm confused as to which way they mean the taper goes on? I can't remember which way it came off. Any help here?
Question #1: How much red loctite do I actually use on the crank during reinstallation?
Question #2: The wave washer that is behind the starter gear has a taper. The manual says to face the tapered edge in towards the motor. I'm confused as to which way they mean the taper goes on? I can't remember which way it came off. Any help here?
Its tough to remove... until it removes itself. Then the damage is done. Lap and clean the surfaces thoroughly. Get some red locktite and hit the nut with a hardcore impact gun. BTDT....
Mine is still holding after this....
I was a mechanical engineer before retirement we used a Loctite product when time would not allow a strip down and renewal. This product is designed to do exactly what you require. Clean it up as good as you can removing all high spots clean thoughly preparation is important and apply Loctite 660 quick metal follow the instructions and when you put the nut back use some nutlock to stop the nut coming loose. 660 is a very good product. Oh yes and don't be impatient and let it cure!!:unconscious:
Iet it cure 24hrs also it allows easy strip down as it does not "glue" the parts together.
heres a link related to the product. http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802627715073
buy in USA http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-66010-Retaining-Compound-Silver/dp/B000O03DK0
http://www.grainger.com/category/re...f=3&searchBar=true&searchRedirect=Loctite+660
Iet it cure 24hrs also it allows easy strip down as it does not "glue" the parts together.
heres a link related to the product. http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802627715073
buy in USA http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-66010-Retaining-Compound-Silver/dp/B000O03DK0
http://www.grainger.com/category/re...f=3&searchBar=true&searchRedirect=Loctite+660
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I had my left end of crank replaced, along with one connecting rod. I wonder if a big taper can be welded to 82 and older cranks?
I believe that copper thrust washer behind the gear has relief cuts on both sides, so it could go on either way.
I believe that copper thrust washer behind the gear has relief cuts on both sides, so it could go on either way.
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alaska81GS1100E
Guest
Did some valve compound lapping on the scarred taper and flywheel earlier today, both coarse and fine. Didn't take off some of the bigger bumps. Cleaned it up and it dry fit well on the divots, made orientation marks. Verified the new springs, plungers and rollers were good. 3 allen bolts were installed with red loctite, torqued over spec. Bearings were good. Put the bike in fifth gear, had my son stand on the brake, red loctited spread on the taper and flywheel, oriented it (with dry fit marks), hammered down on it with a dewalt DW059 (max 300 ft lbs), pretty tight with fresh battery. The starter gear spins and also locks properly. No wobbles or shim. Looks good. Will let her sit several days (recent snowfall to melt).
Will baby it while and keep my fingers crossed. Maybe I'll start looking for a replacement motor (82, 83, 84, etc...) for the future. I think any will bolt right in, not sure.
Will baby it while and keep my fingers crossed. Maybe I'll start looking for a replacement motor (82, 83, 84, etc...) for the future. I think any will bolt right in, not sure.
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alaska81GS1100E
Guest
Appreciate the help guys.
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alaska81GS1100E
Guest
I will keep that in mind.I'm just hoping my crank will last awhile without destroying anything. I was half tempted to go have my buddy do some sloppy welds on her to keep it together. Thanks Ray.
Today I was installing an SC/rotor/stator in the 1150 and took a closer look at the washer. It's really hard to tell the difference in bevel. It was apparently in the right way before I looked at it. The other side bevels didn't look that much different. Guess I've been lucky to put in the right way, so far.
