82 gs650 l

[bikeboy929]

cleaned the carbs, reassembled, and i can't get it to start, if i spray starting fluid in the air box, it starts for a second and then dies, so i know it's not getting fuel, bowls have fuel, i don't think i set the screws right, i am a little unclear of exactly which screw i was suppose to back off 1.5 turns, the pilot screw? is the the one on the left back outside of the carbs on the cleaner side, or the one on the outside top?

"
GS 650 GZ/GLZ (82)

idle r/min 1100-+/-100r/min
carb mik bs32ss (4 seprate carbs)
id no 34300
bore size 32 (1.26)
float height 22.4.+/-1.0 (0.88 +/-0.04)
fuel level 5.0+/-0.5 (0.20 +/-0.04)
main jet #110
main air jet 2.0
jet needle 5C45
needle jet Y-7
pilot jet #42.5
throttle valve #135
by pass 0.8, 0.7, 0.8
pilot outlet 0.7
valve seat 2.0
starter jet #45
pilot screw pre-set (1.5 turns back (mixture screw))
pilot air jet #160
throttle cable play 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04)
choke cable play 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04)
"

 

[basketcase]

the ones on the top " by the intakes/cylinder head" are supposed to be turned out. if you turned the ones on the back out you need to re tighten them.

 

[BigD_83]

The screw to which you are referring is the one on the airbox side of the carbs, at the top middle (12 o'clock looking through the carb) of the carb intake.

EDIT- NOT the AIRBOX side...the screw is on the top of the carb throat on the cylinder side of the carbs

How are your valves?

 

[tom203]

And just what procedure did you use to clean carbs? Ditch the starting fluid ASAP unless you like to tempt fate. Understand that you need to apply full "choke" and NO throttle during cranking. Have you looked at plugs to see if they are dry? Did you ensure clear passage for "choke" system thru fuel bowl hole?
See pic-the idle air mixture screw is the thing the red twisty is pointing to- start with it out about two turns. Note that if this screw was not out during your cleaning, stop now and head to Basscliff's site.

 

[bikeboy929]

basketcase

thats what i thought, i just seated and tightened slightly the ones on the back, i thought i might have messed up which is which.

so the ones on the top by the intakes are the only screws that need adjusting until i am syncing the carbs then, correct?

 

[bikeboy929]

tom203

thank you, which site is that? anything that i can read would be appreciated to better understand

 

[BigD_83]

basketcase

thats what i thought, i just seated and tightened slightly the ones on the back, i thought i might have messed up which is which.

so the ones on the top by the intakes are the only screws that need adjusting until i am syncing the carbs then, correct?

Regarding the presets, yes.

For all intents and purposes there are no other adjustable bits that affect air/fuel flow. I guess your list is where things are currently set? Looks pretty much stock from what I recall.

 

[Steve]

The screw to which you are referring is the one on the airbox side of the carbs, at the top middle (12 o'clock looking through the carb) of the carb intake.

There is no "screw" (or anything else) at that location. :-k

This diagram was meant to highlight the location of the rubber plug, but also serves well to show there is nothing at the 12 o'clock location, except the air intake passage for the enrichment ("choke") circuit.
I do believe that you meant to point him to the pilot air jet at the 8 o'clock position, right? :-k

Bikeboy, Tom gave you a picture of the adjustment screws, here is one from another angle:

He mentioned starting with it two turns out. Some of us prefer to start THREE turns out, then tune as necessary. Starting with them three turns out will add a little richness to the mixture, sort of like a "choke", letting it start easier and run better while cold. Of course, once the engine warms up a bit, you will slowly turn each screw in until you hear the engine idle speed drop a bit, then back it out about 1/8 turn and continue to the next screw. They might end up about 2 turns out, but starting rich is a bit better than starting lean.

By the way, those screws control a mixture, not just air or just fuel. Turning the screws OUT will richen the idle mixture, turning them IN will lean it out.

.

 

[bikeboy929]

first off, pilot jet, the screw at 8 oclock, isn't adjustable then if i understand correctly,

second, this is probably stupid, but how do i get at the " idle mixture screw", there seems to be just a hole there, looks like a cap maybe? do i pull it out with a wire or something?

 

[bikeboy929]

also, as you can tell, that screw wan't taken out for cleaning, do i need to take the carbs out and start over now? also, i didn't know the starting fluid was bad idea, why is that?

directed at tom

thank you

 

[BigD_83]

There is no "screw" (or anthing else) at that location. :-k

This diagram was meant to highlight the location of the rubber plug, but also serves well to show there is nothing at the 12 o'clock location, except the air intake passage for the enrichment ("choke") circuit.
I do believe that you meant to point him to the pilot air jet at the 8 o'clock position, right? :-k

Bikeboy, Tom gave you a picture of the adjustment screws, here is one from another angle:

He mentioned starting with it two turns out. Some of us prefer to start THREE turns out, then tune as necessary. Starting with them three turns out will add a little richness to the mixture, sort of like a "choke", letting it start easier and run better while cold. Of course, once the engine warms up a bit, you will slowly turn each screw in until you hear the engine idle speed drop a bit, then back it out about 1/8 turn and continue to the next screw. They might end up about 2 turns out, but starting rich is a bit better than starting lean.

By the way, those screws control a mixture, not just air or just fuel. Turning the screws OUT will richen the idle mixture, turning them IN will lean it out.

.

Hey Steve,

That was a BIG oops on my part. I didn't mean airbox side. I was reading what was written and got my fronts and backs mixed up...thanks for pointing it out. I'll go back and edit that now

 

[Steve]

second, this is probably stupid, but how do i get at the " idle mixture screw", there seems to be just a hole there, looks like a cap maybe? do i pull it out with a wire or something?

also, as you can tell, that screw wan't taken out for cleaning, do i need to take the carbs out and start over now?

OK, you are making it painfully obvious that you did not do a "proper" cleaning, so I would really suggest that you pull the carbs out and start over.

There is a guide on BassCliff's site (you do have that place bookmarked, don't you?) that has a full guide on cleaning the carbs properly.

Just in case you don't have his site bookmarked, click HERE, then look in the right column, just to the right of his bike, you will see a little spinning "NEW" thingy that is pointing out your best guide to cleaning the carbs.

You will also do yourself a BIG favor if you replace all the o-rings in the carbs and the intake boots, by ordering them at cycleorings.com.

also, i didn't know the starting fluid was bad idea, why is that?

OK, I'm not Tom, but can still give you an answer.

Starting fluid is VERY volatile stuff, and it is way too easy to go overboard with it. Just a little too much "spray" can give rather dramatic results, and will cost a LOT of money to fix. When properly cleaned and tuned, these bikes will seem to start by just looking at the starter button. For the ones that are a little more difficult, you might actually have to GLARE at the button, but they start SO easily.

Using starting fluid will only prove that you have compression and ignition, does NOTHING to help with the fuel situation.

.

 

[bikeboy929]

Ya, I was starting to the feeling that I used not the greatest guide on carb cleaning, ima pull them and off and try again, rather get them done correctly.

Myconcern now is that I used startin fluid 4 or 5 times to try to get it to start, is it likly I wrecked somthing now?

 

[Steve]

Probably not, but throw that stuff away, just to be sure.

If nothing went "BOOM, rattle, rattle", you should be fine.

.

 

[bikeboy929]

ok, thanks! these carbs sure come off quicker the second time

 

[basketcase]

Ive heard alot of stories related to starting fluid causing major damage, have never seen it but heard the stories. what i do is use a spray bottle with gasoline and use it on the fine mist . if its a two stroke i use gas/oil mix in the bottle. and usually just to see if gas is the issue, never to run it for any length of time.

 

[qisteve]

first off, pilot jet, the screw at 8 oclock, isn't adjustable then if i understand correctly,

second, this is probably stupid, but how do i get at the " idle mixture screw", there seems to be just a hole there, looks like a cap maybe? do i pull it out with a wire or something?

Those mixture screw plugs are there to keep us from upsetting emissions settings. They need to be removed in order to get at the adjustment screws. Gently drill into them (straight down) with a small bit until the bit goes completely through the plug (they're aluminium, drill easily). Don't push down hard on the drill or you might run into the screw head and damage it; after the hole is drilled, screw a one inch or so #6 or 8 self tapping sheet metal screw into the hole until it "bites" firmly. Then, using vise grips or pliers wiggle and pull on the screw until the damned thing comes out, then throw it away. This sounds involved, but is easy if you're careful. Next, you might find the adjustment screw stuck, use patience and plenty of WD40. Work them back and forth with minimal force until they come out. Repeat 3 more times . Hope this is helpful.

 

[bikeboy929]

Those mixture screw plugs are there to keep us from upsetting emissions settings. They need to be removed in order to get at the adjustment screws. Gently drill into them (straight down) with a small bit until the bit goes completely through the plug (they're aluminium, drill easily). Don't push down hard on the drill or you might run into the screw head and damage it; after the hole is drilled, screw a one inch or so #6 or 8 self tapping sheet metal screw into the hole until it "bites" firmly. Then, using vise grips or pliers wiggle and pull on the screw until the damned thing comes out, then throw it away. This sounds involved, but is easy if you're careful. Next, you might find the adjustment screw stuck, use patience and plenty of WD40. Work them back and forth with minimal force until they come out. Repeat 3 more times . Hope this is helpful.

very, thank you

 

[tom203]

ok, thanks! these carbs sure come off quicker the second time

I love enthusiasm!

 

[bikeboy929]

pretty sure i found the problem, i when i cleaned them earlyer, the gaskets didn't look very good, and they had red gasket sealer on them already, when i put them back together i used high tack carb sealer ( link ), my float level must have been high, because that stuff is every where now :/ definatly need new gaskets now