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82 GS650 No Start (yes im a noob, sorry in advance for posting a no start thread)

  • Thread starter Thread starter GodSilla650
  • Start date Start date
G

GodSilla650

Guest
So long story short I have 2 identical 1892 GS650L bikes. I got one running enough to ride it around the block, but it was in need of a carb rebuild, it didn't like it if you gave it too much throttle, would just die out.

I picked up the second bike because it had a lot of new parts, less miles, better cond ect..

I bought them both non running. I still can't get the 2nd bike to even pop over.

At first it had a slow crank / odd cranking behavior (if cranked for more than a few seconds it would get slower and slower like it had too much resistance).

What I have done:

Cleaned up some wiring including the main ground and resolved the cranking issue.

Bought and charged a new battery, my previous one tested at 150CA.

Swapped over the R/R, Ignitor, and tank off of my other bike.

Tested for spark (have spark not sure how strong though)

Checked fuel bowls in all 4 carbs, they all had fuel.

The PO replaced the stator (3 yellow wires, is that the bad one?)

"Rebuilt the carbs and synced" - he said he spend 60 bucks on parts, I'm not sure how great of a job he did so I am going to go back through them.

I also found that the ignitor had been cut open and glued back together, so I don't know if he did a repair (successfully or not).


I went through a can of starting fluid with the bike cranking like hell on a fully charged battery and didn't get so much as a pop. I may try the Mr. Matchless ignition coil relay mod.


Any clue what my issue might be?
 
Skip using the glued together ignitor - it's likely dead. In any event, the bike doesn't need a R/R , stator, an ignitor,or even carbs to crank over smartly. With a decent battery and connections, the motor should spin no problem. Getting it to fire means checking lots of stuff like this link

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A17

Pick the best set of carbs and clean them properly following the guides on Basscliff's site. Try to sort out which bike you like to repair first- leave other till later. Likely lots of maintenance to do.
Skip the starting fluid
 
After sorting out the wiring issues and with the new battery the bike is cranking like a champ. I am planning on rebuilding the carbs ( I got the kit from cycleorings) I really just wanted to get a baseline with the 2nd bike to see where I'm at with it and just have piece of mind that it actually will start before I really tear into it.

Using all the electrical stuff (other than coils, plugs, plug wires) off of the bike that ran shouldn't the bike at least tried to start. I heard a singular pop in a whole day of messing with it. I knew the carbs needed work, which is why I was just trying to get it to pop off of starting fluid, wouldn't that have taken any fuel issues out of the equation?
 
He knows everything about those 650's. When you first log in just check this box at the bottom and click on his name for contact info. He is generally logged in 12-14 hours every day...


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Have you tried to contact Steve on this forum?

Who is Steve? Sorry I'm new to GSResources.

He knows everything about those 650's. When you first log in just check this box at the bottom and click on his name for contact info. He is generally logged in 12-14 hours every day...
Yeah, I know a bit about them. Yeah, I'm here a lot. May be "logged in", but not necessarily in front the computer the whole time. :-\\\

To get the engine to fire, you need three things:
1. compression
2. fuel/air mixture
3. properly-timed spark

3. You have a spark, but are not sure whether it's timed properly. Chances are that it is.
2. You already know that the carbs are not providing the proper mixture.
1. You have no idea of compression.
One of the biggest problems is TIGHT VALVES, which tend to let compression leak out, to the point that the engine won't start.

You see a pattern yet?

Adjust the valves. Clean/rebuild the carbs. Replace the plugs. DITCH THE STARTING FLUID.

.
 
SPEAK HIS NAME AND HE APPEARS!!!

Thanks for chiming in Steve. I think my desire to ride this bike asap has made me hasty (hence bombing it with starting fluid) and made me forget my basic diagnostic skills.

I will rebuild the carbs, swap the plugs, and use all the parts off of the bike that I had running half assed.

I've never adjusted valves on a motorcycle, but it looks like there are several write ups out there so I should be good. If the compression checks out ok should I still tear into it and adjust the valves before going forward?

I will probably do the ignition coil relay mod since I have some spare relays floating around.

Thanks for your help. I will keep everyone posted with the progress and do write ups with pictures whenever possible.
 
SPEAK HIS NAME AND HE APPEARS!!!


I will probably do the ignition coil relay mod since I have some spare relays floating around.

.

Many here would advise against doing any mods until your trouble shooting is completed. Why risk creating a new set of issues when still diagnosing the old ones..?

Just my 2? :-s
 
Many here would advise against doing any mods until your trouble shooting is completed. Why risk creating a new set of issues when still diagnosing the old ones..?

Just my 2? :-s


Very good advice, however the ignition coil mod is to insure that you are getting a good spark by remedying the voltage drop to your coils if one is present. Not a performance mod per-say, more of a tune up item.
 
Last edited:
Very good advice, however the ignition coil mod is to insure that you are getting a good spark by remedying the voltage drop to your coils IF ONE IS PRESENT. Not a performance mod per-say, more of a tune up item.
Have you MEASURED the voltage at the coils? :-k

You might not need the relay.
icon_shrug.gif


Over the past 10 or 12 years, we have had about 8 GSes that called our place "home". None of them ever 'needed' the coil relay mod. :-\\\

.
 
Have you MEASURED the voltage at the coils? :-k

You might not need the relay.
icon_shrug.gif


Over the past 10 or 12 years, we have had about 8 GSes that called our place "home". None of them ever 'needed' the coil relay mod. :-\\\

.

:D I knew that was coming! I have not yet. The bike is being stored at a friends house about an hour away, that's why I am speculating so much and the times that I have to work on it have been rushed.

I plan to check the voltage before I do the mod, however I don't know if I will get an accurate reading since the bike won't run, I will have to do it while cranking.
 
I plan to check the voltage before I do the mod, however I don't know if I will get an accurate reading since the bike won't run, I will have to do it while cranking.
You can check the voltage without the engine running or cranking. :eek:

Put your red meter lead on the battery + terminal. Put your black meter lead on the orange/white terminal on the coil. Turn the key ON, read your voltage. If it's less than 1 volt, you have NOTHING to worry about. Between 1 and 2 volts, try cleaning your connections between the battery, ignition key, fuse box and coils. More than 2 volts, clean the connections anyway, but go ahead and try the coil mod.

.
 
You can check the voltage without the engine running or cranking. :eek:


.

I am planning on working on the bike tonight. I will check the voltage before doing the coil mod for sure.

I rebuilt my carbs with the kit from cycleorings.com, pretty straight forward and painless (other than my wife complaining that our apartment smelled like gas and insisting on me taking them outside)... ok I will admit it was a bit fumey.

I plan on adjusting the valves, I have seen a few youtube videos, but I was wondering if there is a good write up out there with specs and all? Are the specs different depending on the cc motor 650/750 ect..
 
I am planning on working on the bike tonight. I will check the voltage before doing the coil mod for sure.

I rebuilt my carbs with the kit from cycleorings.com, pretty straight forward and painless (other than my wife complaining that our apartment smelled like gas and insisting on me taking them outside)... ok I will admit it was a bit fumey.

I plan on adjusting the valves, I have seen a few youtube videos, but I was wondering if there is a good write up out there with specs and all? Are the specs different depending on the cc motor 650/750 ect..

Here you go:
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/gs850valve_adjust.pdf

The tutorial is for an 850 but the process is exactly the same.

Cheers!
K
 
Thank You!!!!

No problem. EVERYTHING you need to know is on bikecliff's site:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Download the shop manual and owners manual for your bike. For any required maintenance there is usually detailed write up on his site complete with pictures. Much of the information refers to a GS850, but the methods generally apply to most GS's. And if you happen to find something that's not covered (highly unlikely) there is a wealth of knowledge in the members of this site.

K
 
Valve adjustment

Valve adjustment

Looks like 2 of my exhaust valves are too tight. I have to order the tool and new shims. Is Z1 the best place to get this stuff from? Is there anything else I should be getting? My feeler gauge only went down to .038 so I'm assuming if that doesn't fit they are too tight and I'm just going to have to ballpark my calculations.
 
So I threw the set of carbs that I rebuilt back on the first bike, and got everything temporally hooked up just to see it if it would run properly. Once I got everything back together I went to turn the key.... and nothing... I checked voltage at my brand new, freshly charged battery and I had 1.3V. So I swapped back in one of my old batteries that had 11.87V and still nothing, not even instrument lights. By this time I had been eaten alive by mosquitoes, I knew it had to be something simple, but I was done for the night.

Next time I went out I checked the fuses and sure enough one of them was blown. I grabbed a 15A off my other bike and power was restored.

I cranked it over and after a few seconds it fired up!! It was running good, but the choke cable was sticking and it didn't really want to idle. So I still need to adjust the idle screw and lube up the choke rod, but at least I know it runs well. It has a pretty bad oil leak from the bottom cover so I am going to take care of that, change the oil, get everything put back properly and hopefully I can have it on the road.
 
I swear I have seen this information before but I have just been looking for over an hour and I can't find exactly what I need. I am looking for the exact pin out diagram for a SH755 regulator. From what I understand the black connector on the right the outer pin is ground the in her pen is positive which I assume you get from the Redwire on the refectory connector And ground can come straight from the battery.

The left great connector has three pins, I understand that those are supposed to be from the stator however one of my factory stator wires does not go to the factory regulator connector, It goes into the wiring harness.

There is also a white wire with an orange traceur that comes from the wiring harness into the factory regulator connector. What should I do with that?

thank you in advance for your help!!
 
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