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82 GS650G Misfire and hesitation

  • Thread starter Thread starter 92G
  • Start date Start date
9

92G

Guest
On the way home today, after refueling, my bike had a small hesitation, and then a few miles later, a little larger one with a misfire.

The plug wires look OK. I'm going to check the rest out of the ignition system after she cools down .

I think it was running between 3000~4000 rpm each time.

Any other suggestions? Could it be bad gas?

Thanks,

Terry
 
Re: 82 GS650G Misfire and hesitation

Check your ignitor box. That is exactly what happened to me and then it ran fine for a couple weeks and I thought no more about it. Until, one day 50 miles out in the middle of the swamp, the ignitor box died for good.
An all day walk out. Not fun.

Earl


92G said:
On the way home today, after refueling, my bike had a small hesitation, and then a few miles later, a little larger one with a misfire.

The plug wires look OK. I'm going to check the rest out of the ignition system after she cools down .

I think it was running between 3000~4000 rpm each time.

Any other suggestions? Could it be bad gas?

Thanks,

Terry
Click to expand...
 
what is a good check for the ignitor box?? can it just be tested with a multimeter? any good replacements out there, like for the R/R, or is OEM the best bet?
 
The OEM ignitor box is a $450.00 part. I know of no aftermarket ignitor boxes. You can get a complete Dyna2000 programmable electronic ignition system for $350-$390 and it is so much better, there just isnt any comparison between it and the stock unit.

The only test I know of for the stock ignitor box is:
1. Set the multimeter to the ohms x 1 scale.
2. Connect the meter positive lead to the black terminal of the ignitor box.
3. Touch the meter negative lead to the green terminal of the ignitor box.
4. When the negative lead is disconnected, spark should occur at the #2 and #3 sparkplugs.
5. Connect the meter positive lead to the yellow terminal of the ignitor box.
6. Touch the meter negative lead to the blue terminal of the ignitor box.
7. When the negative lead is disconnected, spark should occur at the #1 and #4 sparkplugs.

Earl


snowbeard said:
what is a good check for the ignitor box?? can it just be tested with a multimeter? any good replacements out there, like for the R/R, or is OEM the best bet?
Click to expand...
 
so is that using the meter to complete the circuit, grounding each one separately? or are you expecting a reading? I'm a chemist, not an electrician (or my refrigerator would work better :evil: ) so I'm just getting all of this...

and I guess I used the incorrect term in OEM-> I meant is there a junkyard special that works for suzi from any other maker (i.e. wrecker's yard) :D
 
I LOVE direct questions. :-)
"is that using the meter to complete the circuit" .........Yes
"are you expecting a reading" .......... No

heh heh
The ignitor box is transistors as is the trigger on the crankshaft, so the two must be "tuned" to each other. Consequently, you cannot use a Dyna ignitor box with the stock crank triggers. Its the same problem with other makes of bikes. I dont know of any that speak the same "language" as the Suzuki box. There must be some that will work, but unless someone on the board has experimented and found something that does work, it would be a hit or miss proposition with the odds in favor of miss. Probably (i can only say probably) all of the comparable ignitor boxes from Suzuki GS's could be interchanged. Early models of GS electronic ignitions retained the mechanical advance mechanism, so did not have an advance function in the box. Later stock electronic ignitions had an electronic advance and the bike did not come equipped with a mechanical advance. It would be necessary to know which stage of electronic ignition the ignitor box came from to match up with yours even if swapping between GS models.

Earl





snowbeard said:
so is that using the meter to complete the circuit, grounding each one separately? or are you expecting a reading? I'm a chemist, not an electrician (or my refrigerator would work better :evil: ) so I'm just getting all of this...

and I guess I used the incorrect term in OEM-> I meant is there a junkyard special that works for suzi from any other maker (i.e. wrecker's yard) :D
Click to expand...
 
ok, and now I'm getting more into theory I think, but could it be done without the meter, just completing each circuit with a wire, or is the resistance from the meter part of the system in this test?

I see what you mean about the complexity of this part!! I think I'll just leave mine be until I really have a problem!! :roll: (read, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!! :D )
 
I have never tried to do the test without the meter. If the meter was not required due to its resistance, I would logically deduce the tech manuals would not say to use a meter and simply say to gound the pairs of wires.
I would not experiment on a $450 part just to see if it would work.

I guess my answer is;.......I dont know and I'm not going to find out. :-)

Earl



snowbeard said:
ok, and now I'm getting more into theory I think, but could it be done without the meter, just completing each circuit with a wire, or is the resistance from the meter part of the system in this test?

I see what you mean about the complexity of this part!! I think I'll just leave mine be until I really have a problem!! :roll: (read, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!! :D )
Click to expand...
 
snowbeard said:
what is a good check for the ignitor box?? can it just be tested with a multimeter? any good replacements out there, like for the R/R, or is OEM the best bet?
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Believe it or not, I picked up a NOS Igniter for it a couple of months ago for a rainy day. It was hard to pass up at $45.

I'll go ahead and change it.

I checked the plugs last night. They do look like they coud use a little cleaning. I also ended up in a big time traffic jam Wed. It took me about an hour to go 5~6 miles. My manual says that excessive idleing can cause plug damage. They have about 6k miles on them anyway, so I may go ahead and change them.

Thanks again.

Terry
 
OK,

Swapped the igniter and plugs, and it put 25 miles on it with no problem. The plugs were'nt that bad, so I'm going to assume for the time being that the igniter was on it's way out.

Thanks for the advice, and praise the Lord for Ebay...:)

Terry
 
Just happened to have one of those sitting on the shelf did ya? LOL Luckeeee!

Earl
92G said:
OK,

Swapped the igniter and plugs, and it put 25 miles on it with no problem. The plugs were'nt that bad, so I'm going to assume for the time being that the igniter was on it's way out.

Thanks for the advice, and praise the Lord for Ebay...:)

Terry
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
Just happened to have one of those sitting on the shelf did ya? LOL Luckeeee!

Earl
Click to expand...

No kidding... The other great thing about it, is that it easily convinced the wife that I should stock up on more spare parts... 8)

Terry
 
Keeping parts on hand is a good thing, particularly if you ride an old bike. :-)

Earl

92G said:
No kidding... The other great thing about it, is that it easily convinced the wife that I should stock up on more spare parts... 8)

Terry
Click to expand...
 
I have a pretty good selection of parts myself. Did you ever consider you could have gotten a bad tank of gas
 
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