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82 GS850GL Kickin my butt

  • Thread starter Thread starter Harry P.
  • Start date Start date
H

Harry P.

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Still not running. Valves adjusted, new airbox boots, airbox sealed, filter lightly oiled, new intake o rings, carbs dipped w/ new o rings, screws out 3 turns, new plugs & caps, fresh oil & filter. Plugs look a bit carbon fouled so I should be running a bit rich, took them out checked the gap & cleaned them. Starts on choke but will not run off choke when warm, all pipes getting hot, seams to run worse or not at all when it heats up. Looks to be origional coils says Nippondenso on them and they look origional, could that be it or could the timing be off or maybe electrical. I don't know what to do next any suggestions would be helpful. Think I'm overlooking something easy but not sure.:confused:
 
problems!!!!!

problems!!!!!

Recheck carb o'haul!!!!!!!! Pilot jets CLEAN??????? Check fuel delivery, RECHECK and RECHECK again. How thorough was the carb dip.bmac
 
1st dip was not thorough, pulled the carbs a 2nd time and dipped em each for 24 hours. I'm sure I got them clean.
 
Don't forget to poke a copper wire through the holes and spray them with carb cleaner to make SURE they are clean.
Install new o-rings from cycleorings.com and you should be good to go.

.
 
I'm dumb enough to do something like this, so I'll throw it out... did you check the idle? Is it set too low to idle once the choke is off?

If it was me, it would be something like that :). -nick
 
sounds lean to me. spray starting fluid around intake boots and connections to the head/carb and look for a jump in idle speed.
 
Did you check compression? Do you have a good spark at all plugs?
 
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I would check the float level. Did you set the level on the correct part of the float?
 
Going to pull it apart again...I think I need to bench sync it better as I don't recall how I did it :oops: also will recheck the float heights, when doing this I know where and what to measure and assume the floats are not touched during the measurement or are they held up to a point where it just touches the valve? I also have a temp tank with an inline filter that may be restricting some gas flow I'll get rid of that and get some fresh gas. Everything else is done..compressions good, valve clearances all in spec, plugs, wires, o rings, intake boots, airbox sealed. I'll get it right sooner or later. Thanks for the advice and moral support :)
 
After you clean the carbs again, you may want to think about adding an inline fuel filter. After I cleaned my carbs, I had a problem with the petcock. Replaced the petcock,dislodged some crud in the tank and clogged up my nice clean carbs. More than likely the pilot/choke circuit is probably clogged.
 
Check input voltage at coils. Not enough (12V) in=not enough out=bad running no matter how good the carbs are.

There is an extensive thread on this forum regarding "coil relay mod" that explains it all.
 
Well, I agree with the first two posts; if it runs on choke but dies out as soon as you take it off then you are most likely lean.

Bench synch will get you in the park, but you CANNOT expect that to get you dialed in as it is merely a starting point. Grab yourself a set of gauges after you get the fuel issues figured out and synch the quartet.

Make sure that your fuel line delivers the fuel you need it to deliver.

I hooked a vacuum pump up to my petcock as I didn't feel like sucking on a hose.

Also, you didn't replace the needles and seats with aftermarket units did you? I chased a lean problem all year with aftermarket needles and seats.
 
Not sure if the needles were aftermarket, got em from Z1 should be OK. Got a new petcock. I'll check the coils out, got the carbs off again, better bench sync, checking for any plugged up holes ect. Noticed one of the diaphrams was not working right, got that sorted. All looks in good order, when I disconnected the temp tank and drained it fuel flowed well from the filter so delivery isnt an issue, plenty of fuel in the bowls. I think it'll end up being my coils and I'm chasing a carb problem as I don't want to have the expense of new coils. Thanks for the advice all. I have a question regarding the floats, now the float has a piece of metal that touches the plunger, when measuring are you to hold the float so it just touches the plunger or is the float left loose and the plunger depressed a bit from the weight of it? Thought I saw somewhere it was to just touch. I have it where I let the float loose and got the height set there.
 
Harry P. said:
Not sure if the needles were aftermarket, got em from Z1 should be OK. Got a new petcock. I'll check the coils out, got the carbs off again, better bench sync, checking for any plugged up holes ect. Noticed one of the diaphrams was not working right, got that sorted. All looks in good order, when I disconnected the temp tank and drained it fuel flowed well from the filter so delivery isnt an issue, plenty of fuel in the bowls. I think it'll end up being my coils and I'm chasing a carb problem as I don't want to have the expense of new coils. Thanks for the advice all. I have a question regarding the floats, now the float has a piece of metal that touches the plunger, when measuring are you to hold the float so it just touches the plunger or is the float left loose and the plunger depressed a bit from the weight of it? Thought I saw somewhere it was to just touch. I have it where I let the float loose and got the height set there.
Click to expand...

With OEM needles and seats, when the float rests on the needle, the spring on the needle does not move: unlike the aftermarket N&S I had in there.

I had some Buffalo needles and seats on my pops GL and I chased lean problems all riding season.

With new OEM needles and seats and she is warmed up and ready to be off of choke in anywhere from 30 seconds to a min and a half, at the most, on a 40 degree day.
 
I notice my needle plunger does go in a bit with the float loose, if I hold the float up it releases. is it fair to assume I need to hold the floats up to where it just touches the plunger and set my float height there? This will change my height quite a bit.
 
If the springs in the float valves don't hold up the floats, it's time for new valves.

No sense in chasing your tail over an inexpensive detail like this.

.
 
I put in new ones, thing is I'm confused as to when to measure, with the floats loose is compresses the plunger a little, then further if you add a little pressure or push on the float. Do I measure with this slight compression or do I lift the float till it's just touching the plunger then set my float height? Its a matter of a couple of mm's.
 
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