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82gs1100 carb q

  • Thread starter Thread starter antbanks
  • Start date Start date
bill,
it just seems like at times a person asks questions and then talks about everything else but the answer they was given.
i have used DJ kits sense the late 80's..
they have changed and gotten better.
i have some old stock kits still.
do you want to thumb wrestle?:evil:
OK but you'll win :rolleyes:
 
I suppose it would depend on your definition of blunt. I have early DJ needles kinda blunt. Then I have adjustable mikuni needles (available, or at least were, through sudco) which are stupid blunt. Almost looks like they were clipped short but they were machined that way. So if his have little taper and stop all the sudden they would likely be MiC.. If not they's prolly DJ...
 
The DJ needles for the eight valve motors are blunt compared to the sixteen valve.
The 170 DJ main is only used with an air corrector in the main air jet. That changes everything for the main jet mixture.

It doesn't matter where you put the clip on the needle with a main jet that small. Get that dialed in first and then work on the needle jet.
Is there a brass jet where the main air jet is on your carbs? This is located on the filter side of the carbs around five oclock?


Yes It has a brass jet, but one is at 4 o'clock (Probably the one you are talking about) and there is another at 8 o'clock...that one says 170 and unscrews??
 
SOOOO you think I should fix the air leaks around the intake things??? I was going to take the carbs off and mess with the jets but I thought before I do all this crap lets start it and spray carb cleaner around the intake ports...well imagine my surprise when it trys to die from sucking so much c-cleaner down its gullet...so I'm gonna start over. In starting over what should I do first, sync the carbs? or put a bigger jet in and then sync with vacuum gauges? Oh yea I REALLY with anti seize would have been used on the assembly line, there wer 2 bolts that stuck so bad I had to dig 1 out and spent 2 hours with both me and my dad pulling our hair out (I'm 32 and he is 68 and need that hair!!!:D) Ok anyway got new o-rings and it runs like crap but I synced the carbs a week or so ago with the air leaks:oops:....
 
Just thought you guys and gals would like to know that after replacing the intake o-rings and tuning idle mixture screws I now need wheelie bars...took it for a cruise on the highway and pretty good so when I get off and take off from a stop light i rolled the thottle all the way open and shifted about 8500 -9000 and the front wheel pulled off the street pretty high and for an alright distance...surprised the crap out of me!! But still has a slite rich mixture around 3000rpm, gonna try dropping the needle unless anyone has a better suggestion...I down loaded a manual off basscliffs website and it says 108.5 is the stock main jet, whats up with that? everyone else says 120 - 138???????
 
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Just thought you guys and gals would like to know that after replacing the intake o-rings and tuning idle mixture screws I now need wheelie bars...took it for a cruise on the highway and pretty good so when I get off and take off from a stop light i rolled the thottle all the way open and shifted about 8500 -9000 and the front wheel pulled off the street pretty high and for an alright distance...surprised the crap out of me!! But still has a slite rich mixture around 3000rpm, gonna try dropping the needle unless anyone has a better suggestion...I down loaded a manual off basscliffs website and it says 108.5 is the stock main jet, whats up with that? everyone else says 120 - 138???????
107.5 is the stock main.
I'd go with a 138 Dynojet main jet. I have a set.
 
HAHAHA well dang guess i'll never get a set of 138's :( I'm glad you guys have a sense of humor:p Just let me know whats easiest for you...unless its driving across the country;)
 
138DJ is 130 (roughly) Mikuni. Is that gonna be too big? I was thinking 122.5 - 125 Mikuni (maybe 132DJ?) might be where he needs to be??
 
Ok, the only thing I did was move the needle up 1 slot and kind of clean them up a bit and now the spitting and sputtering is at 3000 rpm and no other. If i try and stay at 45 in 5th gear which is right at 3000 it jumps then slows cuts out and sounds like crap, but sounds good above and below 3000. Any ideas?? I'm gonna try to get some jets today, I have drill bits that I can use to make them any size I want but would like to have an extra set in case I screw up.

Yeah don't drill emmout. You will have no idea what size they are then. Plus, I'm not even sure how they measure the jet sizes. Some companies use flow rate, some use something else...maybe wire gauge or something... Just figure out what size you need based on a simple formula. For a pipe generally you're going up 1-2 sizes, for pods add another 4-5 sizes. So if you're a107.5 stock, a 122.5 or 125 mikuni is pretty close... Or the DJ equivalent (you either multiply or divide, I can't remember which, the mikuni jet size by .937 and round up or down...DJ come in even sizes, no halves)
 
Both would be good that way I have something to play around with. I dropped the needles last night 2 slots, 1 slot above where it was when I started, and it runs smooth through the rpm range now but not as perky and powerful. I haven't checked the spark plugs yet this morning so not sure what its doing. I have a gas analyzer I need to use on it but can't put a load on it while using it.

In drilling the jets I can't flow check them but I can measure them, I have drilled jets and soldered them up without issue...on Q-jet and Holly car carbs, just see how many thousands of an inch they are and go from there, not that big a deal if you have the right tools but like I said I have no way to flow test.

Ok so if I go with a bigger main jet will I have to go bigger any where else?? Like pilot jets or move the needle any??
 
Dude. Just listen to what this bunch of experienced people are telling you:

1] You are running LEAN due to pipe & pods.
2] Go get some 130 Mikuni mainjets.
3] Install those mainjets, and put needles to middle (3rd) clip.
4] Ride bike, see how it goes.

Not all that hard, and you'll definitely notice a difference. You can get Mikuni jets off eBay - if you can't find any give me a PM and I'll forward you the fellows store that I get them from. He does them for US$4* a jet plus US$3 postage anywhere in the world up to 12 jets. Pretty reasonable IMO.

Cheers - boingk

*Actually five Australian dollars a jet plus 4 Aussie dollars postage.
 
I understand what your saying, I ask so many q's so I have a plan before I disassemble ...I am going to put bigger jets in just haven't made time to get them, House of kawasaki in Oklahoma City has a set of 130's i think.

I did lean them to c if i could get rid of the 3000 rpm stumble and it did...clip is in second slot from top but haven't ridden it more than 5 or so miles after leaning it out. I have the left engine cover off right now welding up a dent and crack. I will change the jets before I ride it again, hopefully today...its bike night at hooters:cool:
 
I got some 125 mikunis but I had to go to a couple shops cuz no one had a full set, and would have tried them last night if a storm hadn't blown in
 
I got some 125 mikunis but I had to go to a couple shops cuz no one had a full set, and would have tried them last night if a storm hadn't blown in

any chance of taking a picture of your needle(s) and posting it here?
if you have a dyna jet kit... all the BS your going through is unnecessary.
these jet kits are 90% install and ride on stock GS models.
if your not at a high altitude jet kits are simple when installed 100% per instructions.
 
Yea I will post some pics. I have to move the needle back up one slot still so will take some pics Monday or Tuesday...the 125's work really well, very nice power but can still feel a slight up and down in power when starting from low rpm at WOT, that started after I moved the needle down. BUT...YES BIG IMPROVEMENT so thanks guys :D

I just bought 4 main jets, no kit or anything
 
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