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'83 1100 crank bearing failure?

  • Thread starter Thread starter droptail
  • Start date Start date
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droptail

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Had a clicking noise and found a crank roller bearing that had 180 degrees of the roller surfaces cracked. Has anyone else seen this? This was on a well kept bike since new.
Any sources on a repair?

Thanks
 
Never heard of it, but ya never know. Yes the 83 crank was "welded" but it was only pin welded, and supposedly on only one end. Never heard of a bearing cracking like that tho..would think the standard replacement would be in order? but ive not split the cases on one of these puppies yet, thats on the list for the winter. How many miles on your gorgeous old girl?
 
Had a clicking noise and found a crank roller bearing that had 180 degrees of the roller surfaces cracked. Has anyone else seen this? This was on a well kept bike since new.
Any sources on a repair?

Thanks


main bearing failure is not that uncommon/call john pearson.
pearson racing..
he is a crank builder for quite alot of racers and hi performance companies.
937-839-9723 ohio EST.
 
I'll try and post a pic tomorrow after I pick up another '83 1100E.
The failure is really very interesting, and its my guess its a temper treatment process failure by the supplier (like it had uneven heat/cooling exposure).

I'm afraid to find out how much they want for a welded crank repair.

No, the wheelies didn't cause it, I think it has the original clutch in it still. That bike stood up on its own, I swear officer.

I'll contact your reference above, thanks.
Guess an '83 ebay crank isn't out of the question.
 
crank repairs are the same welded or non welded.
and yes crank repairs are "several" hundred dollars minimum.
on a press pin crank you cant see inside.
used cranks are a coin flip.
 
I'll try and post a pic tomorrow after I pick up another '83 1100E.
The failure is really very interesting, and its my guess its a temper treatment process failure by the supplier (like it had uneven heat/cooling exposure).

I'm afraid to find out how much they want for a welded crank repair.

No, the wheelies didn't cause it, I think it has the original clutch in it still. That bike stood up on its own, I swear officer.

I'll contact your reference above, thanks.
Guess an '83 ebay crank isn't out of the question.
Send it to Pearson's. there are a good majority on this board who'll only let TWO people in the US touch their cranks, he's one of them. Good guy, does the work and charges what should be charged. Wont screw you. I sent a fellow GSR there for some simple head repairs, he did the job, and when asked if he would deck the head, he simply looked at it, and told the gent, "I'd only be taking your money, its fine" Honesty like that will go a LONG way in helping me unfold my billfold..
 
Send it to Pearson's. there are a good majority on this board who'll only let TWO people in the US touch their cranks, he's one of them. Good guy, does the work and charges what should be charged. Wont screw you. I sent a fellow GSR there for some simple head repairs, he did the job, and when asked if he would deck the head, he simply looked at it, and told the gent, "I'd only be taking your money, its fine" Honesty like that will go a LONG way in helping me unfold my billfold..
Who's the second?

I should have done it when (local) APE still did them, and only wanted something like $125. Oh well, too many projects.
 
Who's the second?

I should have done it when (local) APE still did them, and only wanted something like $125. Oh well, too many projects.
Well sir, that bike, IMO, is worth the effort. However, Like Terry (Blowerbike) says, doing the bottom end on one of these, start to finish, will blow your wallet apart. You may attempt hunting up another motor first. If you find a deal, you might get away with a few hundred, rather than a LOT hundred.. LOL
 
Send it to Pearson's. there are a good majority on this board who'll only let TWO people in the US touch their cranks, he's one of them. Good guy, does the work and charges what should be charged. Wont screw you. I sent a fellow GSR there for some simple head repairs, he did the job, and when asked if he would deck the head, he simply looked at it, and told the gent, "I'd only be taking your money, its fine" Honesty like that will go a LONG way in helping me unfold my billfold..

Gary Clark is the other famous crank guy

we use pearson if the expected horse power is going to exceed 200 HP.

he is famous he does great work and it is going to cost . I must be lucky to have so many precision machine shops in my immediate area that do balancing truing liquid cooled TIG welding to multi piece crankshafts. there are good machinists all over this fine country of ours. My local guys do GREAT WORK if you are not going to really squeeze your engine tight(11,500~12,000) and on the nitrous.
bearings are available individually. new thrust washers are also easy to get.

I think that you need to identify what is going on with your engine to create the failure you have.
180 degree cracks and fissures say runout and case integrity issues to me. blaming the hardening of the part is not a good idea. if your crank is whipping around in there you could get it fixed only to have the exact thing happen again.
I suggest you find the true cause before spending too much money
 
Here is a pic of the bearing (crummy I know). If you can tell, only exactly 180 degrees are cracked, the other 180 degrees are perfectly smooth like the rest.

I can't upload more than 1 pic?
 
the roller and or the race fails first..
kinda like the chicken and the egg..not sure which one fails first.
ive seen this in the aluminum caged main bearings/83 1100/1150's but ive also had steel caged main bearings eat thereself up along with the race.
i dont think this is a heat treating or lack there of problem.
a good crank builder would have an answer.
maybe/maybe not:confused:
 
First quote from Stan Gardner Racing Concepts is for $700 + over $100 in shipping for a "street" rebuild, no knife edge or anything fancy.
Definitely out of the question for my budget. We'll see what the other experts charge.

No referrals for good machinists doing repairs on non-racing engines?

Thanks guys
 
Gary Clark is the other famous crank guy

we use pearson if the expected horse power is going to exceed 200 HP.

he is famous he does great work and it is going to cost . I must be lucky to have so many precision machine shops in my immediate area that do balancing truing liquid cooled TIG welding to multi piece crankshafts. there are good machinists all over this fine country of ours. My local guys do GREAT WORK if you are not going to really squeeze your engine tight(11,500~12,000) and on the nitrous.
bearings are available individually. new thrust washers are also easy to get.

I think that you need to identify what is going on with your engine to create the failure you have.
180 degree cracks and fissures say runout and case integrity issues to me. blaming the hardening of the part is not a good idea. if your crank is whipping around in there you could get it fixed only to have the exact thing happen again.
I suggest you find the true cause before spending too much money

I need someone who can work on an engine thats under 100hp, not over 200.

Is there a number for Gary Clark?

Thanks
 
Pearson's will do what you need bro. Like I said, i just referred a buddy up there to have him remove a broken exhaust stud, and a compression gauge adaptor he managed to get stuck in the plug hole. On a GS850L. Not exactly a race bike ;) Give him a call man, he might be able to help you out, without a full on crank build..
 
you get what you pay for.
you are not going to find anyone thats worth a crap to do a complete disasembly/reassembly for under 500.00 labor..
my price is over 500.00 for a complete rebuild(labor only).
i disagree on the cases out of whack...
i bet the cranks out of true and thats what caused the problems for the most part.
whether its a 100hp crank or a 200hp crank will not affect the price of the labor much at all.
buy a used crank and shove it back togather.
 
Gary Clark is the other famous crank guy
NOT true! Gary Clark DOES build a good crank but the other FAMOUS crank builder is Stan Gardner at GRC. Stan's # is 207-664-0377 but just know that he will be in the same price range as John Pearson. PLEASE, whatever you do, stay AWAY from Falicon!!! I have GOOD, usable, 83 cranks that will live if you are interested. If interested, call me at 714-356-7845. I'm not sure where you live but I am 3 blocks south of Disneyland & build LOTS of GS engines. Let me know if I can help. Ray.
 
Hi guys, I think I've got the same problem as the OP. In fact, I think I've had bearing failure on 2 GS1100E's this summer. I'm a little frustrated. I will most likely take the advice of many on this board and send one of the cranks to Pearson. It is certainly more money than I want to spend on a crank, but that is where we are at now. However, before I take this action can someone please take a look at the included images and confirm for me that these bearings are shot? (If interested you can see my original posting here, which includes a video of the sound the bike was making: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=142471)

Also, rapidray, if you have good working cranks for an 82 or 83, I would like to give you a call.

Thanks all, and I hope I'm not hijacking this thread.
bearings_1.JPG
bearings_2.JPG
 
i believe dirty oil or lack of oil changes or being ran low on oil ect...
not by you but maybe a previous owner.
the almuminum main bearing cages seem to do this before the steel cages do.
IMO...
the 83 GS1100E/ES started with the alm. cages and these continued through the 1150 production run.
call john between 9-5pm EST.
he could give you his opinion.937-839-9723
 
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