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83-86 550 2 barrel carbs

I just pulled the boot off of one of them with the box in place.....gonna be a nightmare to put it back on!!
Shouldnt be too tough. I must admit though I was doing ALOT of cussing when working on that same model. It HAS to be the single hardest GS to get the carbs in and out of. Taking the battery box out is helpfull in getting an extra 1/2 inch or so of wiggle room. Also, when you goto put that boot back on, give the boot a shot of PB Blaster or WD40 for some lubricant, it will help. And if you have a hair dryer or a heat gun, it also helps to heat the boot up so its nice and plyable.
 
Shouldnt be too tough. I must admit though I was doing ALOT of cussing when working on that same model. It HAS to be the single hardest GS to get the carbs in and out of. Taking the battery box out is helpfull in getting an extra 1/2 inch or so of wiggle room. Also, when you goto put that boot back on, give the boot a shot of PB Blaster or WD40 for some lubricant, it will help. And if you have a hair dryer or a heat gun, it also helps to heat the boot up so its nice and plyable.


great advice....will do!!

hopefully we get some custom pods made and the box goes BYE BYE:D
 
here's a thought.....

what if I was to shove some air filter foam into the boots and eliminate the box now while we wait for these pods to be made? will this act as enough filter?
 
great advice....will do!!

hopefully we get some custom pods made and the box goes BYE BYE:D
From my own experience, I am just about done with affixing CV carbs with pods. Yeah, it makes it easier to get them in and out, but unless your bike sits for weeks at a time where there might be a chance of them gumming up, once you get it running well, how often do you really have to do it? I am big on the performance aspect, and do a lot of tuning and tinkering. But ive come to the realization that you simply CANNOT tune all of the flatspots out of the CV carbs. You can get them damn close, with a LOT of tinkering and trial and error, but the fact is, a change in the temp and/or weather will change them fairly drasticly from day to day. Im to the point where I am half tempted to put the airbox BACK on my 1100ES. And in all honesty, I or just about anyone probably wouldnt notice a difference in performance other than it running SMOOTHER. A track bike is a different story, and those guys have that stuff down to a science (and alot of em arent running vaccum carbs anymore either) But for an everyday rider thats something you put alot of miles on, if you were to ask ME to do some work on your bike, unless you were adament about it, I would highly suggest leaving the airbox, installing a nice K&N drop in filter, pull the lid off the thing and tune the bike for your pipe/borekit/whatever from there.. Just my opinion though.
 
Wait I thought there were already pods MADE for that carb? The guy I worked on that bike for said he HAD a set of them and wanted me to jet the thing for it, but i told him i didnt have time right now to do it, but perhaps in the future. I will give him a call and ask him where he got those...if in fact they were correct for that bike to begin with...
 
From my own experience, I am just about done with affixing CV carbs with pods. Yeah, it makes it easier to get them in and out, but unless your bike sits for weeks at a time where there might be a chance of them gumming up, once you get it running well, how often do you really have to do it? I am big on the performance aspect, and do a lot of tuning and tinkering. But ive come to the realization that you simply CANNOT tune all of the flatspots out of the CV carbs. You can get them damn close, with a LOT of tinkering and trial and error, but the fact is, a change in the temp and/or weather will change them fairly drasticly from day to day. Im to the point where I am half tempted to put the airbox BACK on my 1100ES. And in all honesty, I or just about anyone probably wouldnt notice a difference in performance other than it running SMOOTHER. A track bike is a different story, and those guys have that stuff down to a science (and alot of em arent running vaccum carbs anymore either) But for an everyday rider thats something you put alot of miles on, if you were to ask ME to do some work on your bike, unless you were adament about it, I would highly suggest leaving the airbox, installing a nice K&N drop in filter, pull the lid off the thing and tune the bike for your pipe/borekit/whatever from there.. Just my opinion though.

I agree with you TCK....

I ride up and down a mountain pass thats pretty windy daily, and since I have both a dragstrip close by and a nice road course/oval track at PPIR, I will be tuning this bike for the 600 retro class.....
 
Wait I thought there were already pods MADE for that carb? The guy I worked on that bike for said he HAD a set of them and wanted me to jet the thing for it, but i told him i didnt have time right now to do it, but perhaps in the future. I will give him a call and ask him where he got those...if in fact they were correct for that bike to begin with...


K&N discontinued production on them and when I emailed the K&N customer service people they asked for measurements for some custom builds..........

rapidray confronted me about a contact he has with K&N and we started the ball rolling on this!
 
K&N discontinued production on them and when I emailed the K&N customer service people they asked for measurements for some custom builds..........

rapidray confronted me about a contact he has with K&N and we started the ball rolling on this!
Ahhhh ok. He probably has the correct ones then, just got lucky enough to get them from someone or prior to them being discontinued. Those ARE some goofy carbs. I still dont completely understand why they went that route with the design, other than perhaps space savings..
 
Shouldnt be too tough. I must admit though I was doing ALOT of cussing when working on that same model. It HAS to be the single hardest GS to get the carbs in and out of. Taking the battery box out is helpfull in getting an extra 1/2 inch or so of wiggle room. Also, when you goto put that boot back on, give the boot a shot of PB Blaster or WD40 for some lubricant, it will help. And if you have a hair dryer or a heat gun, it also helps to heat the boot up so its nice and plyable.
True. I always end up removing the igniter & fusebox & battery box. New boots are pricey for a piece of rubber, but are well worth the savings in aggravation. I've done it enough now that it only takes a few minutes for the whole thing.
 
Ahhhh ok. He probably has the correct ones then, just got lucky enough to get them from someone or prior to them being discontinued. Those ARE some goofy carbs. I still dont completely understand why they went that route with the design, other than perhaps space savings..
It probably did have to do with the space they were working with. The 550 is a pretty compact engine.
 
It probably did have to do with the space they were working with. The 550 is a pretty compact engine.
It is indeed. Something I found amusing though, that motor FEELS like it weighs more than the 750 of the same vintage. I happened to have had to move both around Jim (RageZro) shop one day, and i swear the 550 felt 20lbs heavier. Bigger holes on the 750 i guess..lol All in all, that lil 550 design is pretty cool. The one I happened to be working on had the whole late model Kat suspension swap done to it, and talk about flickable. I am one of those who doesnt care for the highpressure motors, for durability reasons, but its pleanty punchy, even with my big ass on it. Fun little bike.
 
I'm in the process of doing that complete Katana swap......I have the Katana wheels with NEW tires waiting for my front end to be completed and I just got my 99 GSXR750 rear shock for it too:D
 
I'm in the process of doing that complete Katana swap......I have the Katana wheels with NEW tires waiting for my front end to be completed and I just got my 99 GSXR750 rear shock for it too:D
Thats about all it is isnt it? I think this one had a GS700/750 swinger on it for a lil more beef maybe, and the guy who did it ( a member on here, cant remember his handle off hand) machined the sprocket carrier a lil bit for spacing reasons. Pretty clean mod. If you didnt know any better you'd swear it was stock.
 
I opted out of the GS700/750 swingarm as I'm going with the 3.5 inch Katana rear wheel so a 140/70-17 rear will fit the stock swinger.......I'm actually trying to find the right color ORANGE right now to paint my wheels.

Paint scheme is going to be mostly White with some cool Orange/Reds with Orange wheels, Orange grips, and Orange windscreen......stands out this way!!
 
I opted out of the GS700/750 swingarm as I'm going with the 3.5 inch Katana rear wheel so a 140/70-17 rear will fit the stock swinger.......I'm actually trying to find the right color ORANGE right now to paint my wheels.

Paint scheme is going to be mostly White with some cool Orange/Reds with Orange wheels, Orange grips, and Orange windscreen......stands out this way!!

Well with the 17inch wheels, that fairing of yours MIGHT not drag the ground now:p;) But, if it doesnt work out, and you want to let it go...I would be interested. :o
 
Well with the 17inch wheels, that fairing of yours MIGHT not drag the ground now:p;) But, if it doesnt work out, and you want to let it go...I would be interested. :o


since it came off another 550 I'm assuming its already been cut to fit.......but if it hasn't then we'll see!

side fairings should be here by Friday, lower scoop should be here by Saturday hopefully....
 
I did find both OEM full lowers for my bike for $200 plus shipping from Canada if these ones don't work for me.

Can't pass up trying these ones at the cost of shipping only first though:cool:
 
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