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83 GS1100e Fork removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter radbassist
  • Start date Start date
bonanzadave said:
At least it turns. Mine were so tight I F'ed up the allan head and had to buy new bolts. Yes, they were factory loc-tited. Could not find that metric size and pitch anywhere. Had to order them from the local stealership.
Click to expand...

I use babbittsonline.com for most of my parts they have oem in most cases. I just looked up your allen bolts.... 2.95 per. They have 95% of everything! Just tryin to save y'all some money. Shipping is a little expensive for my likes but i get my stuff promptly and it's correct.

and yes.... I'm gonna buy two. :)
 
Last edited:
radbassist said:
Allright dammit. That fricken bolt just spins that is under the front axle galley. Do i need that homemade threaded all thread thing with the 2, 3/4" nuts?
Click to expand...

Having a piece of 1/2" all thread and 4 nuts helps a lot for a number of things, this being one of them.


RichDesmond said:
air (or electric) impact wrench really helps with those.
Click to expand...

+1.


Sandy said:
Probably not. The damper rod just needs bit of fiction on it to keep from turning. Someone mentioned a broom handle works or I was thinking toss a shop cloth in hole and then the spring and push on it a bit. It shouldn't need much unless some dummy put lock tight on it.
Click to expand...

Well, seeing as how the service manual calls for thread locking compound that seems likely.


Mark
 
mmattockx said:
Having a piece of 1/2" all thread and 4 nuts helps a lot for a number of things, this being one of them.

+1.

Well, seeing as how the service manual calls for thread locking compound that seems likely.

Mark
Click to expand...

Holy crap. Who'd a thunk a piece of 1/2" allthread and some nuts would do the trick. Looking down the upper tube you can't see anything resembling a hexagonal shape for the nut(s) to lock into.
Not sure what it locks into but ask me if i care....

nope. I got it out.

Thx again guys....
 
radbassist said:
Holy crap. Who'd a thunk a piece of 1/2" allthread and some nuts would do the trick. Looking down the upper tube you can't see anything resembling a hexagonal shape for the nut(s) to lock into.
Not sure what it locks into but ask me if i care....
Click to expand...

It is really supposed to be a 19mm hex for the top of the damper rod but the 1/2" UNC nut is 3/4" across the flats and that is an almost perfect match to the 19mm so it works fine. I also use the all thread to seat wheel and swingarm bearings among other things.


Mark
 
mmattockx said:
It is really supposed to be a 19mm hex for the top of the damper rod but the 1/2" UNC nut is 3/4" across the flats and that is an almost perfect match to the 19mm so it works fine. I also use the all thread to seat wheel and swingarm bearings among other things.


Mark
Click to expand...

Well sh*t. I hammered the cup on the bottom of the top fork tube after i slammed up the lower fork tube to slide/tap/force the fork back up to the fork clamps so i could "slam" the old seal out and separate the two halves.... Thus, fwaked up this cup thing. It's just a little tin feeling thing that I don't know what it's purpose is but it can't be critical
Make sense?

Not sure i need a new one. I could probably clean up the existing one. Providing it isn't a major issue.
 
radbassist said:
Well sh*t. I hammered the cup on the bottom of the top fork tube after i slammed up the lower fork tube to slide/tap/force the fork back up to the fork clamps so i could "slam" the old seal out and separate the two halves.... Thus, fwaked up this cup thing. It's just a little tin feeling thing that I don't know what it's purpose is but it can't be critical
Make sense?

Not sure i need a new one. I could probably clean up the existing one. Providing it isn't a major issue.
Click to expand...

Was it #17 or #10 on this diagram?

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/sear...83/GS1100E/FRONT+DAMPER+(GS1100EZ)/parts.html


Mark
 
Forks are done.... Next step.... Front brake system:worked_till_5am:
 
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