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83 GS550 shifting pawl.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Trainer6
  • Start date Start date
T

Trainer6

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When I got my bike the shifting pawl was removed along with the clutch basket. I put the shifting pawl on, with the teeth on center according to Clymer instructions and installed clutch and all. I ran the bike (she ran beautiful) and then realized it would only shift into 1st and 2nd gears. The other gears I need to push back down on the gear shifter before each one. I think what was happening is that the retainer spring was not the right one and it allowed a little play with the shifting pawl. The pawl spring would slip and the gear shift lever would not spring back into position. I tried to replace the retainer spring with a new one. Unfortunately, I pushed too hard on the pawl and could not get it set right. As a result, I had to drain the oil and break open the clutch cover again and reset the pawl.
According to book I am supposed to run through all the gears before I assemble the rest. Something I didn't do the first time. So I am at that stage now and I can only get 1st gear. I am looking for some input so I can correct what I may have done wrong.
 
How about a pic of its innards, sorta like this pic? Someone might notice what's out of position
 

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I would get a picture but for some reason, I am unable to take the clutch basket out. I dry fitted the thing at least a half a dozen times when I first got it. It went in and removed without a problem. The inside bearing and sleeve is removed. It is very loose and I can move it around. It is confusing that it won't come out this time.
 
With nut removed, try tapping basket gently as you tug on it. Maybe you installed a washer backwards and its binding.
 
Tap on it. Like with a rubber mallet I suppose. Will try that.
 
With nut removed, try tapping basket gently as you tug on it. Maybe you installed a washer backwards and its binding.

I explained that incorrectly. It is not the clutch basket but primary drive gear that will not come out. It seems that either the drive gear expanded or the engine shrunk.
 
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But now that I got a good look at it. I see a problem. Those two dodads the upshift pawl and down shift pawl are not set right. I released the spring clip on shifter and pushed it in a bit to release the gear. Without that gear drive housing removed, I have no way to fix it.
 
Ok. Found the problem for the drive gear assembly. I had to rotate the engine so that a bolt on the inside would be out of the way.
 
I can't see what's wrong in your pics- but been like 40 years since my trans woes! Can you reinstall stuff and see if it will shift properly?
 
I just installed that before I took the picture. I am at the point where I am supposed to check to see if it will shift through the gears. I put the lever on and it will not shift into any gear at all now. It seems to be stuck in neutral. Do I need the clutch cover on to check the gears. I don't see how it would help seeing the clutch is not installed. According to Clymer, the earlier models required that you turn something first before you change the gears.
 
I'd put bike on centerstand (if needed put plywood under stand) to raise rear wheel off ground, spin tire and see if gear changing appears normal. These critters like stuff revolving to change gears.
 
I agree with the centerstand idea. It's possible that the points of two teeth are matched up and the gears won't mesh.

For the record, if you are only pulling the clutch, you don't need to drain the oil. :-k
Leave the bike on the side stand. Pull the cover, there will be just a drop or two that falls from the inside of the cover.

.
 
I agree with the centerstand idea. It's possible that the points of two teeth are matched up and the gears won't mesh.

For the record, if you are only pulling the clutch, you don't need to drain the oil. :-k
Leave the bike on the side stand. Pull the cover, there will be just a drop or two that falls from the inside of the cover.

.

Thank you Steve. I changed the oil and filter anyway because I was giving it a flush. Previously, I had to drill out a clutch cover bolt and hoped a flush would help out. Tomorrow I will put it all back together again and let you guys know how it goes. Really hoping I get all the gears this time.
 
Update. I installed the clutch again. As you suggested, the gears don't work unless something is running. You are correct. Had to assemble it all before the gears would kick in. I took it for a drive. It all went well until I arrived back. For some reason I am having trouble putting it into neutral. Sometimes it feels like the shifter is locking up and if I give it a bit of a rev just before I shift then it goes into neutral. I did not have this problem after the first assembly. Neutral was easy to find. I made the mistake of not putting the clip on the shifting cam until clutch was assembled. That is why the spring came off. Any ideas as to why neutral is a problem now?
 
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I did do one thing different then the last times. I do not have a torque wrench that reads low enough to tighten the bolts of the pressure plate precisely. So I counted the turns in each bolt so that the each bolt was even with the plate. This time I went in a little deeper. I added 2 more complete turns to each bolt then I did the last times. It was my plan that when I was ready to have it safetied then I would have the mechanic set those bolts to the right torque.
 
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