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83 Gs550e Idle Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter 550ERAT
  • Start date Start date
5

550ERAT

Guest
Rebuilt carbs, new o-rings. no air leaks. Good battery, good electrical readings (as far as I can tell). Bike will start right up, on full choke. Does not want to idle (need to keep on the throttle). After bike warms up, idle is low. (don't want to mess woth the idle knob just yet). Bike will run decent but, if just puttin through a parking lot in first gear, the bike sputters. It is not a smooth slow speed idle. I am not sure if it is a mixture issue ir sync problem. I did change my igniter and the bike seems to run better at higher speeds. (was missing before under load) I am also wondering if the petcock is an issue, although thinking not if it runs good at higher rpm. Any thoughts? Any more info needed? Thanks
 
550ERAT said:
Does not want to idle (need to keep on the throttle). After bike warms up, idle is low. (don't want to mess woth the idle knob just yet).
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Why not? If the carbs are properly clean and sealed as you state, adjusting the idle speed up is obvious.
 
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Nessism said:
Why not? If the carbs are properly clean and sealed as you state, adjusting the idle speed up is obvious.
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I want to make sure it's nothing else before I mess with it. I don't think turning the idle up will solve the stumbling problem at low speed.
 
550ERAT said:
I want to make sure it's nothing else before I mess with it. I don't think turning the idle up will solve the stumbling problem at low speed.
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Very easy to do...wouldn't hurt to try it would it?
 
No change. Bike idles higher, but still does not run smooth at extremely low/slow speed. My question is could this be a mixture screw issue? I sprayed starting fluid all over the boots/airbox/manifolds and no changes so I don't think it's an air leak problem.
 
it's the mix screws, does it seem to be bogging or is it pinging and overheating?

You'll have the rig a gas container and adjust em with the tank off. Be carefule as they and the metal around where they are is very soft. I landed one of mine hard and bound it up... then destroyed a set getting it out. (BTW the mix screws off a GS500 will work too)...
 
No pinging or overheating. Just seems somewhat starved but only at low speed. Will rev up to 9g plus and sounds decent once you get past that low rpm. I can't remember how many turns out but, on a stock bike what is the average? I can start from there. The bike only has 15g on it. I have not checked the valves, but I don't think they are an issue. They were checked several years ago, but not by me. Thanks for the info so far.
 
When you cleaned the carbs did you fully break them down and soak all the parts in carb dip? The symptoms you describe sound like plugged pilot jets, or the pilot screw passage. These circuits have very tiny orifices and most people don't get them properly clean unless they dip the parts.
 
550ERAT said:
No change. Bike idles higher, but still does not run smooth at extremely low/slow speed. My question is could this be a mixture screw issue? I sprayed starting fluid all over the boots/airbox/manifolds and no changes so I don't think it's an air leak problem.
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Hey 550ERAT...long time no see (a post).

FYI: My bike did the SAME exact thing when I first got it together last year. I did the whole "spray for air leaks test" and never found anything based on that method. Either I didn't do it properly or the test wasn't valid for my particular circumstances but it didn't illumiante the leak, which did exist. Turne out that the o-rings (between the boots and engine) were just a bit flat after 20+ years...when I swapped 'em for new ones, problem vanished. Of course, since you've already swapped yours out for new, that's probably not your issue.

I would suggest that, per the Clymer manual, you look into the valve adjustment since you indicate that it's been several years. (Suzuki's service manual indicates valve adjustment to be every 4000 miles). Also, in their troubleshooting charts for "engine idles poorly", the first thing on the list is valve clearance/adjustments.

Best of luck!
 
Thanks to all....I will definately check the valves. The carbs were broken down twice. all the jets were replaced and the carbs are squeaky clean. They were dipped, not just sprayed with cleaner so I don't think it's a plugged circuit. I will keep you posted, it's gettin warm and I wanna ride!!!
 
Thanks to all....I will definately check the valves. The carbs were broken down twice. all the jets were replaced and the carbs are squeaky clean. They were dipped, not just sprayed with cleaner so I don't think it's a plugged circuit. I will keep you posted, it's gettin warm and I wanna ride!!!
 
550ERAT said:
Thanks to all....I will definately check the valves. The carbs were broken down twice. all the jets were replaced and the carbs are squeaky clean. They were dipped, not just sprayed with cleaner so I don't think it's a plugged circuit. I will keep you posted, it's gettin warm and I wanna ride!!!
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If you still have the stock jets you might want to try putting them back in. The brass is rarely worn and many of the aftermarket carb kits do not have the proper jet sizes.
 
How bout a mechanic in Connecticut comin over to fix this damn thing!!!!!!! Anyway, pulled the two outside plugs today. Left side a bit black, not too too bad. Right side was blacker and a bit wet. (RICH?) Comments? Suggestions?
 
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that's a bit rich... though without a plug chop it's hard to tell where on throttle unless you let it idle forever before you pulled the plugs.

I second checking to make sure your petcock is OK... also take a look at your float height and float valves(gas leaking from the carbs?)... if your floats are too high or the valve won't shut off at idle you'll get the same issue.
 
Ok, sync done today: I used the stock tank, but, it would not run with the vac line plugged and the petcock on prime. Did the sync with the vac line connected and petcock on "on". All screws are around the 2 3/4 - 3 turns out. I have the idle set at 1300-1500 (seems to sound good around there, any lower and does not sound as good). No air leaks and all hoses are nice and tight. Bike ran MUCH better, but......Decided to check my electrical stuff too......Very weak spark when cranking (new plugs). Coils check out ok per Haynes manual. Igniter seems to be weak. I got all kinds of crazy readings. The manual states to check in the K ohm scale but some of my readings would not show until the scale was changed to the "M" scale. So it appears that for some of the readings I had too much resistance and on others I had not enough. Has anyone used the HYPERPAK ignition? It seems to be a direct plug in and at half the cost. The bike starts right up now too. Hopefully I am not missing anything.
 
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