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83 GS750E rebuild thread.

  • Thread starter Thread starter piester
  • Start date Start date
Yeah except mine doesnt have the front fairing. Mine has a round headlight. And i cant really see the bars good but mine has silver clipon style bars with about an inch of rise
 
Oh and mine has what apears to be factory suzuki decals on the gas tank
 
big update. got a set of carbs from chef with a fresh cleaning and rebuild. installed dynojet stage 3 kit as per the instructions. new battery, new battery cables. coil relay mod. extra ground from rr to batt neg terminal. repacked muffler. the bike runs. for the most part. i definetly need new carb boot o-rings (wich i ordered and are on their way). it has a small gas leak i havnt located yet. bike runs ruff. wont idle below about 2 grand. without wanting to die. will run wide open really good. part throttle seems to not work so well. but it runs good enough to do a burnout on my sidewalk haha. i did notice that the exhaust comming from cylinders 1 and 4 are scorching hot while 2 and 3 are barely warm. that leads me to the number 2-3 coil. any recomendations on adjustments to the carbs? or should i wait till i get the new orings?
 
Small update. Yanked the number 2 and 3 plug wires off while it was running. No change at all. Then when i was putting the number 3 plug wire back on it started firing. Hm. So maybe its the caps i thought. Took the caps off and yanked the plugs out. Cleaned and gapped the plugs. Took the brass screw, little block thing, and spring out of the plug wire caps cleaned and lightly sanded all of the contact points and put it back together. There was a black, carbon type buildup in it. Put them all back together and put them on the bike. Tried to start it and the starter stuck on and wouldnt shut off. Grrr
 
its gotta be my solenoid. the bike still cranks even thow the key is off and the killswitch is off. but lucky me the one from my 850 is the exact same one. so i will be swapping those, ripping the carbs off and making sure everything is tight to find that gas leak. waiting for my new orings to come in the mail. after all that ill see if rebuilding the plug caps helped. then maybe new coils.
 
i borrowed a digital ohm reader from a friend of mine and plan on testing my coils and caps. anything else i should test out? i also will be swapping out my starter solenoid since i suspect it is bad.
 
ok here are my ohm meter readings. forgive me for not being able to read one of these meters.
coil 1&4
plug cap to plug cap: .907 k ohms
plug wire to plug wire (no caps): .835 k ohms
conector to connector : 2.1
cap1: .817 k ohms
cap2: .783 k ohms


coil 2&3
plug cap to plug cap: .916 k ohms
plug wire to plug wire (no caps): .835 k ohms
connector to connector: 2.0 ohms
cap1: .853 k ohms
cap2: .910 k ohms

extra coil 1&4
plug wire to plug wire (no caps) : .810 k ohms
connector to connector: 2.1 ohms

extra coil 2&3
plug wire to plug wire (no caps) : .810 k ohms
connector to connector: 2.0 ohms


all of these readings were taken with the ohm meter dial set to the only one with the upside down u looking thing and with it on auto. with it on the setting that beeps when there is a connection the readings from connector to connector were the same but plug wire to wire showed as open. so what does this mean? cylenders 1&4 were firing and 2&3 wouldnt. the extra coils were from my 850 and the bike ran good when they were taken off. they have sat on a concrete shed floor all winter thow. any input? should i just snag some new coils? do new coild come with new caps? thank you for any help
 
Anyone? Haha. I have no clue what im looking at here. I tried to explain as best as i could.
 
If you have tried known good coils then I'd check the igniter.
Instead of chasing ignition woes get some green Dyna coils and a Dyna S.
Have you tried to start it with the better connections on the plug wires and a different solenoid?
 
I dont really know if any of them are good. When the do fire its a pale orange yellow spark. The plugs are new. How would i test the ignitor?
 
If your getting spark that's good.
Unplug the power to the coil and the headlight and see how many volts are getting to that coil.
Is the battery and charging system good?
I'd do the coil mod.
 
battery is good. charging system is good as far as i know. i have already done the coil mod. the thing that confuses me is 1 and 4 fire just fine. 2 and 3 dont fire. but then i took 2 and 3 off and then put 3 back on it would fire if i held the cap to the plug without pushing it all the way down. i think im just gonna snag another set of coils and caps. do coils come with new caps? and where can i get them at a good price. denniskirk had them for 40-50 a piece.
 
so is that what i should do? get new coils, wires, and caps? i dont really understand the readings i got when i tested my coils
 
chef1366 said:
If you have tried known good coils then I'd check the igniter.
Instead of chasing ignition woes get some green Dyna coils and a Dyna S.
Have you tried to start it with the better connections on the plug wires and a different solenoid?
Click to expand...

I would listen to Chef before you buy any parts. ;)

Eric
 
i did. i have already done the coil relay mod. i am getting power directly from the battery for them.
 
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