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83 gs750es 'tank slap'

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
This method has always worked fine for me too.

About the wobble: could be some unbalance in the wheels. Or too much play in the front wheel bearings.
 
Since you're going to need a socket and torque wrench to install the nut, you may as well use the socket to loosen it. :-)

Earl


quote="srivett"]Hi Ed,
Using Lynn's method (and mine too) isn't a big deal as long as the bearings aren't tight to begin with. I don't think she led anybody who could think things through astray.

Cheers, Steve[/quote]
 
Maybe you are right and maybe my idea of proper maintence is a bit unrealistic and uncompromising but that probably comes from my aviation background where it must be done right as your life may depend on it. My point was if there is a tool designed for this function and a set value to tighten to, why would you beat it tight with a screwdriver to who-knows-how tight? That is not a professional way to do things in my opinion. How can anyone disagree with that? I probably was a bit harsh, and did not mean to slight anyone, but wanted to stress that any maintence task should be done properly. Ride On, Ed.
 
oldschoolGS said:
Maybe you are right and maybe my idea of proper maintence is a bit unrealistic and uncompromising but that probably comes from my aviation background where it must be done right as your life may depend on it. My point was if there is a tool designed for this function and a set value to tighten to, why would you beat it tight with a screwdriver to who-knows-how tight? That is not a professional way to do things in my opinion. How can anyone disagree with that? I probably was a bit harsh, and did not mean to slight anyone, but wanted to stress that any maintence task should be done properly. Ride On, Ed.
Click to expand...

Ed,

I think you're right when you say that if there's a right tool for it, why not use it?
On the other hand: some of us don't own the tool. That doesn't mean that we can't do the job without it.
We are not talking about "bashing" on the steering bearings, we just tighten or loosen the nut a bit, and try if it works.

Again: you're right, but some of us just depend on the "feeling" for the bike. I bet you do sometimes...? :wink:
 
You cannot do the job correctly without it as you have no idea how tight it is. There is a reason that a specific torque value is given. Otherwise Suzuki would say to bash it tight with a screwdriver. It is all in attention to detail. How would you know what is causing a steering headshake if you do not even know if the stem nut is properly torqued? Not only that but using a torque wrench for everything will prevent sheared bolts and stripped threads saving your money for tools instead of Helicoil kits. Ride On, Ed.
 
oldschoolGS said:
You cannot do the job correctly without it as you have no idea how tight it is. There is a reason that a specific torque value is given. Otherwise Suzuki would say to bash it tight with a screwdriver. It is all in attention to detail. How would you know what is causing a steering headshake if you do not even know if the stem nut is properly torqued? Not only that but using a torque wrench for everything will prevent sheared bolts and stripped threads saving your money for tools instead of Helicoil kits. Ride On, Ed.
Click to expand...

No more arguments; you're right! :D
 
At least on '83 and up you are supposed to tighten the nut to 28-36 lbs. ft.
Then turn the frnt end lock to lock 5 or 6 times to seat the bearings. Then back off the nut 1/4-1/2 turn. Then finish assembling.
 
No one seems to have mentioned swing arm bushes. That's the second thing I'd check after checking the rear tyre pressure
 
Seemed to fix the problem by tightening the steering head nut. (I think thats what its called...) Thanks guys (and gals) for all your help.
 
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