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84 gs1100gk rubber passage plugs, 1 stripped pilot jet, and 2 stuck pilot screws

  • Thread starter Thread starter tga8706
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tga8706

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Everywhere I've looked so far are out of stock for plugs that cover the pilot jet. Was gonna replace them cause a couple were bad I think, all crusty and not tight fitting, plus I am currently missing one I lost it.

I have one pilot jet stuck and was already stripped I just finished her it's completely screwed. I have the guides from basscliff and elsewhere and bought screwdrivers I thought fit enough, plus I used pb blaster forgot to try torch. So maybe have to use some kind of easyout thing?

Also have 2 pilot screws stuck that one I started to strip a bit the other not bad just stuck. Gonna try to borrow a handful of screwdrivers and find one that fits perfect and maybe a little heat from torch?

Out of four carbs managed to get only one completely apart. I have orings ordered and need to replace atleast one pilot jet and probably rubber plugs. Everything else really wasn't bad. The bike would take a little while to warm up I think with choke but after a couple minutes begin flooding out both the airbox and exhaust from my understanding. I never could get it to run for more then 2 secs. I'm missing out on awesome weather lately please a little help trying to get this done in say less then a week from today fingers crossed, gotta start dippin.

I'll try to add pictures later gotta go to work.
 
Here are 4 new ones from Z1 Enterprises.

You can get the pilot jet out if you take a small flat blade screwdriver and tap it in to the soft brass jet with a hammer to create a new slot. Just make sure the screw driver is smaller in diameter then the threads for the jet. If that doesn't work then you can take a small TORX driver and tap it into the center of the jet and screw it out that way. Destroys the jet but at least it's out and you can salvage the body. Heat really is your best friend here. Just make sure you remove all the rubber pieces before you apply the heat. Don't forget the enrichment plunger. Make sure it's been removed as well.

If you can't get the pilot jets or adjustment screws out then send me a PM. I have the carb bodies you need with the both the pilot jets (#40) and the pilot screws (screws, washer and spring).
 
I got new oem Suzuki plugs, cheap, through BikeBandit. I was real careful undressing the pilot jets, using a skinny, tight fitting JIS screwdriver.That screwdriver set was the best $20 that I spent on tools in a long time!
 
I got new oem Suzuki plugs, cheap, through BikeBandit. I was real careful undressing the pilot jets, using a skinny, tight fitting JIS screwdriver.That screwdriver set was the best $20 that I spent on tools in a long time!

Z1 currently out of stock on that part as well. Bikebandit.com might be a good source but partsnmore.com has 5 for $8.00 here. Scroll down and you'll see them.

Accept the pilot jets are not JIS. They use a straight edge screw driver. The problem is when you use a screwdriver that's either to loose or to thick to properly grab the jet. Of course that assumes that the PO didn't already bugger them up. Sounds like the OP already stripped out the screw slot.
 
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I got the pilot jet out but realized I have scratch that 4 pilot screws stuck 2 or 3 of them pretty well stripped now torch did not help. partsnmore is also sold out by the way. I don't care about replacing the little sobs whats guaranteed to help me get them out with out losing the carb body. There not brass right so I can't just punch with a torx like the pilot jet? I had a hell of a time just unganging these carbs couldn't do it without a impact screwdriver.
 
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I got the pilot jet out but realized I have scratch that 4 pilot screws stuck 2 or 3 of them pretty well stripped now torch did not help. partsnmore is also sold out by the way. I don't care about replacing the little sobs whats guaranteed to help me get them out with out losing the carb body. There not brass right so I can't just punch with a torx like the pilot jet? I had a hell of a time just unganging these carbs couldn't do it without a impact screwdriver.

In most cases the stock mixture screws are stainless steel. If there is still some slot left, I have been able to use a sharp straight edge screwdriver to cut the slot a little deeper. You just use a hammer and tap it in to the existing slot. You can also use a dermal tool with a cutting disc and slice straight down the top of the screw tower thus cutting a slot into the screw head. You can also use a hack saw but you have to careful to go down straight. Doesn't look pretty but will allow you to use a straight edge screw driver to unscrew the mixture screws. Just make sure you don't go down too far. Move the screw up and down a bit just to make sure the threads are clean and straight before you remove the screw completely.

One trick to getting these out is to use a lot of heat and some PB blaster. I fill the tower with PB blaster and then use a propane torch to heat it up real good. Don't worry too much about over heating anything as long as all the rubber parts are out. The PB blaster will boil but that's OK. Once it boils dry I add some more PB blaster and heat some more until the PB blaster is almost gone again. It may flame up but it wont burn like crazy. Once it's boiled down again, then stick the screwdriver into the screw slot and turn slowly. If its not turning freely then heat some more. If it turns freely then turn it a little at a time. If it starts to bind then back the screw in a little and try again to remove it. If it still binds then heat again with PB blaster. On really stubborn screws you need to go out a turn and then back in a half turn each time. Only had one that would not come out using this method. In most cases the screw comes out without any slot damage at all. That's assuming that there wasn't any damage to start with and you're using the right size screwdriver. In your case it's just trying to salvage the body.
 
Ok I wasnt torching it nearly long enough then I'll give another try tonight
 
well took them to a motorcycle shop and they wouldn't even touch em said they would break. I don't know what to do he said i could try a machine shop. Tried an easy out that was a fail. Many tries at torch and PB still fail.
 
I too had a nightmare with stuck pilot screws, brass screws in BS34s. One was easy, two eventually came out with extraction tools, heat, PB, and lots of breaks to think about the situation. The fourth still has some remants of the screw remaining after three sizes of Grab-It bits all failed. I wound up buying a body from JTD850GL for that one. My mechanic Jerry later told me that the ultrasonic cleaner in his shop does the trick. He said if there's any resistance at all, they leave them in during the clean, then they usually come out normally.
 
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