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85 GS1150E 1+4 cyl. run intermittent

  • Thread starter Thread starter 02BLknBLU
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02BLknBLU

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I just bought an 85 GS1150E project about a week ago. i was told it was in storage for 8 years. when i got it, it didn't have any filters/air box/battery/fuel lines. the carbs are jetted up a ton(150 main). it will start and barely run only when choked. 2 and 3 cyl primary's on the exhaust get hot quick, 1 and 4 not so much. it will spit/puff the fuel back out of 1,2,and 4 carbs intermittently(where the air box would be).

i tested the coils by swapping the wires on them, still does the same thing.

i checked the OHM's on the pickup coils at the connector, they were both around 157/158. i haven't swapped them yet to see if they will make 2-3 run bad. i think i'll try that.

i tested the Rect/Reg, it did not have an OHM reading from the Red to Blk wires. only from the Blk to Ylw wires. and that was testing it with the opposite test leads than what the diagram said to use. so i bought a new one, it is in the mail. i also ordered some conical air filters.

im going to do a compression test tonight since a few members said my V&H pipe looked very discolored and was probably ran Very Lean at one point. hope it checks out ok.

Does anyone have any other opinions of what may be wrong with the bike? What else should i look for or test? Thanks.

pic in 1st post of this thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=155824
 
Pull the carbs & clean them THOROUGHLY before wasting any more time doing anything else. Then get some filters to put on the carbs when you put them back on to fire it up again. Call me at 714-356-7845 if you want some help or want answers to questions without waiting on the forum. Ray.
 
I havent been on here recently since GIR opened for racing this past weekend. But i did manage to get some time to pull the carbs completely apart. i grabbed my manual with "cross section" views of the carbs. i sprayed cleaner thru all of the passageways and made sure its coming out in the right location. i put them back together and set the float valve heights accordingly.

i installed them back on the bike with my new conical filters and fresh fuel. remind you, i still have a bad rect/reg... its supposed to be in my mailbox today. so i choke it a little and start it up. i adjust the idle up to keep in running around 1000rpm. i let it warm up and give it some throttle. it runs very "dirty" until it gets above 5000rpm. it still puffs/backfires? fuel back out of the carbs. seems like the intake valve isn't closing before the spark ignites. i pulled the valve cover and none of the valves are being held open.

so i loosen up the 3 bolts on the pickup coil bracket and turned it slightly with the little room it has to give(i believe counter-clockwise?). i started it back up and it didnt puff/backfire? nearly as much as before. i guess i'll check the ignition timing and see where thats at.

any ideas?
 
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Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. 02BLknBlu,

It sounds like your bike needs all the "usual stuff" which should be explained in the links below. If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....:)

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
it will start and barely run only when choked. 2 and 3 cyl primary's on the exhaust get hot quick, 1 and 4 not so much. it will spit/puff the fuel back out of 1,2,and 4 carbs intermittently(where the air box would be).
Did you SPRAY WD40 (or other SAFE alcohol based spray) around the intake boots to check for leaks?
After-fire (which is NOT your case) or Back-fire says a lot.

Cylinders that run LEAN will have BACK-FIRE & Run HOT and usually due to leaking intake manifolds.

Sometimes I still get confused with these, just think, "back-fire=not enough fuel so ignition seeking out fuel BACK through carbs. After-fire=after combustion chambers (excess fuel STILL detonating in your exhaust)."

But don't mind me, just go ahead and DRILL out your jets/air screws...
 
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so i finally got the time to do a compression test last night. i'm not sure what the numbers are supposed to be, i googled it but didn't come up with anything. and i left my manual at a friends house. so i started the bike(have to keep it choked to run at low rpm's) and got it warmed up. pulled the plugs and this is what i got:

[stator side](130)(125)(105)(135)[pickup coil]

so i think i have it narrowed down to either the jetting of the carbs or timing/ignition. seems like it doesn't have enough fuel thru the slow jets(i think they are 47.5). it revs slow up to 5k rpm, then it sounds semi-normal after that. however, 1+4 plugs are black and 2+3 plugs are almost white.

jetting? what jets would this bike require with just pod filters and a V&H? OEM carbs.

maybe timing?
bad pickup coil?
 
so i finally got the time to do a compression test last night. i'm not sure what the numbers are supposed to be, i googled it but didn't come up with anything. and i left my manual at a friends house. so i started the bike(have to keep it choked to run at low rpm's) and got it warmed up. pulled the plugs and this is what i got:

[stator side](130)(125)(105)(135)[pickup coil]

so i think i have it narrowed down to either the jetting of the carbs or timing/ignition. seems like it doesn't have enough fuel thru the slow jets(i think they are 47.5). it revs slow up to 5k rpm, then it sounds semi-normal after that. however, 1+4 plugs are black and 2+3 plugs are almost white.

jetting? what jets would this bike require with just pod filters and a V&H? OEM carbs.

maybe timing?
bad pickup coil?
Besides the 47.5 pilot jet what jets are installed? Stock jet needle? Stock main jets?
 
pick up coils don't go bad unless the bikes gets crashed on that side.
if the problem was ignition...
it would be more than likely in the black box.
i have had these with cold soldiers on the board and the bike would act crazy sometime/sometimes it acted normal.
pop/boom/bang/...then run perfect.
i believe you have carb issues.
order a st.3 dynojet kit and do exactly as the kit says..
**stock idle circuit is required**
 
I'm gonna go back and back up rapidray's suggestion:
Pull the carbs & clean them THOROUGHLY before wasting any more time
You "sprayed some cleaner" in there, but that does not clean carbs that have been sitting for 8 years. It's going to take a full dismantling, dipping each carb body (and its jets), probably for a full 24 hours to get them clean. While you are waiting for the carbs in the dip, order a new set of o-rings for the carbs from board member Robert Barr at cycleorings.com. Get the full set of o-rings for your carbs and the intake boots, if your bike uses them (I don't think it does, but what do I know?). Go ahead and splurge, too. Spend the extra penny, get the o-rings for the drain screws, too.

.
 
a complete carb cleaning/rebuild is a given.
individual filters...AKA "alien pods" is a problem that is only corrected one of two ways.
reinstall air box or add a st.3 jet kit.:D
 
Besides the 47.5 pilot jet what jets are installed? Stock jet needle? Stock main jets?
i don't know about the needle. 150 main jets, 110 air jet(for the pilot i believe)

i was told these carbs were cleaned 2 years ago, they look very clean inside. i think i'm about done messing with these carbs. i don't really want to put any time/money into them. i've been looking into Mikuni Flatslides. opinions on them?

i don't have an original air box.
 
RS36mm miks.....
1150'S LOVE THEM.
make sure you have an H/D backing plate on your clutch basket or else:eek:
 
Did you SPRAY WD40 (or other SAFE alcohol based spray) around the intake boots to check for leaks?
After-fire (which is NOT your case) or Back-fire says a lot.

Cylinders that run LEAN will have BACK-FIRE & Run HOT and usually due to leaking intake manifolds.

Sometimes I still get confused with these, just think, "back-fire=not enough fuel so ignition seeking out fuel BACK through carbs. After-fire=after combustion chambers (excess fuel STILL detonating in your exhaust)."

But don't mind me, just go ahead and DRILL out your jets/air screws...
I found the wifey's perfume to woik grate!:-$
 
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