'85 GS700ES -- upgrading to adjustable clutch/brake levers

[Kurtz]

I've got small hands and I've not been able to adjust the factory levers on my GS700ES to a comfortable distance from the grips. Aftermarket adjustable levers would seem to offer a solution. But manufacturers do not test fitment on old bikes. <2000 seems to be the rule.

I'm wondering: are there are later model bikes whose lever assemblies are similar enough to the GS700 to allow a lever designed for the later model to work on the GS700?

Alternately, is it feasible to swap the entire lever assemblies from a later bike onto the GS700 without impacting brake performance or clutch engagement? Which models would make good donors?

Thanks!

 

[jsandidge]

Look up Windy U on Youtube. He just did a video last week on swapping to adjustable levers. Seemed like a pretty inexpensive upgrade.

 

[Gorminrider]

I don't know much about the 700, but some things I found are pitfalls in retrofitting generic adjustable levers are:

-the brake lever needs to match your Master cylinder....You may find it easier to get the entire Master Cylinder With Lever combo...to replace just the lever, look very closely at the bikes' MC that the lever purports to fit....

-that is, matching the lever's actuation to the position of the piston to on the Master cylinder.

- the brake light actuation... It's hopeless to expect a new adjustable lever to actuate the very-eclectic method used on early 80s Suzukis so you may need to add a hydraulic-actuated switch or a microswitch.


- the clutch levers seem to work ok across several bikes if they are Pull-Cable types but, the amount the cable itself moves will be reduced when the lever's "throw" is reduced.

another answer: bend your levers gently. I didn't tell you to do this but they seem to survive it very well. They bend really well if you drop the bike on them which is really to say, they do NOT need to be heated. ...obviously, use a spare lever or have a new one in hand .

You could also try filing the contact area to the MC piston down...this will give you slack and may affect the brake switch, depending... you'd also want to insert a screw or piece of rubber or the lever will have play.

the clutch lever could merely be adjusted to be slack but you will lose "travel" at the clutch itself. I haven't found this to be a problem. But will still need say, that
in all cases where a cable is used, to have a shorter throw at the handle, if you want to keep the existing cable "travel" (the amount the clutch is pulled in), you need an entirely new mount at the handlebar. It's strictly leverage. If the pull distance at the lever is shorter while the clutch is pulled as much, the pull at the lever Will be Harder.