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'86 1150 Rear Running Light out

  • Thread starter Thread starter zachdexter
  • Start date Start date
Z

zachdexter

Guest
I rode my 1150 home from purchase with the rear running light out. Today, I started my project of tracing the problem. The rear runner shares a ground with the rear brake circuit, which works fine (however I am only getting 4.5- 5 volts on the positive side of that circuit as well). I am only getting .03 volts on the positive side of my rear running circuit. The path ends at the "Check Panel Control Unit"- where- at that point- I am still only getting .03 volts. What is the next step to figuring out the issue? I tried to search "check panel control" in the forum search several times this afternoon and keep getting a server error- so I am sorry if this might be a redundant post.

For now, I'm just going to jump my rear runner circuit off my front runner circuit. Should I keep this set up and abandon an issues happening within the secret, sealed, black box of the check panel control unit?

Thank you!
Zach
 
You might have to be the "pioneer" at solving this problem. I have no familiarity with this "check panel control unit" but I'm guessing it offers warnings about different problem, like burnt out bulbs. Until I got really bored, I'd do what you're doing- jump it off front.
It's more important at this point to doublecheck all the maintenance on this new to you bike. Be skeptical of everything - lots of these bikes look good but have been ignored mechanically.
 
If you haven't already, check out BassCliffs treasure trove of info about rehabbing older bikes. He and everyone will say to "disconnect, clean/repair/replace EVERY SINGLE CONNECTION on your bike", then get back to us with your questions. I had all kinds of problems with mine when I first got it, followed the how-to's, searched the forum, and in the process verified the electricals, fixed what was broken, improved factory built stupidity, and now when something pops up I can isolate it a lot faster.

Where are your pics??????
 
I wouldn't think one would want full voltage for the running light as the brake light has to be brighter? Or is the brightness in the bulb?
Zach I would check all connections to be clean and free from corrosion. I did keep it covered and out of rain and snow but it still sat outside.
Gimme a call if you like.
 
The bulb has 2 filaments, so when the brake switch is activated the second filament lights up, and effectively doubles the brightness.
 
Cableguy,

I'll go through and clean junctions and hit them with some dilectric grease. I'll jump the rear runner to my front runner until I can eventually round up some voltage specs that I should be hitting at each point.

The rear lights are 2 filament- the brake and the running light. They share a ground side of the circuit. The brake circuit works fine with brought me to troubleshooting the positive side of the running circuit.

Went out for the first ride of the season today! Here's the girl and me. The side covers still need paint- I've got to pick a rattle can color to two-tone the bike with the custom paint on it, or round up an air gun set up to get the side covers done with the little bit of custom paint I've got left.

Zach.jpg


Olivia-1.jpg


Zach
 
That looks like the one that was for sale a couple months ago a little north of there, Queensbury, or Glens Falls or somewhere around there. 1150 with an 1100 motor swapped in. At least the PO had the correct graphics on it! Nice bike, and don't worry you'll still have plenty of power and have fun (ironically) putting 1150 upgrade parts on the motor.
 
5150/gs said:
I wouldn't think one would want full voltage for the running light as the brake light has to be brighter? Or is the brightness in the bulb?
Click to expand...
It's in the bulb.
cableguy said:
The bulb has 2 filaments, so when the brake switch is activated the second filament lights up, and effectively doubles the brightness.
Click to expand...
Actually, it's quite a bit more than "double".

The stock bulb has a tail light filament of about 2 or 3 watts (depending on which bulb was installed), but the brake light filament is 23 or 27 watts (depending on which bulb).

If you simply light a second filament of equal brightness, the human eye would have trouble distinguishing the difference.
There are standards in the vehicle laws that require a certain amount of difference, and it's quite a bit more than "double". :o

.
 
cableguy said:
That looks like the one that was for sale a couple months ago a little north of there, Queensbury, or Glens Falls or somewhere around there. 1150 with an 1100 motor swapped in. At least the PO had the correct graphics on it! Nice bike, and don't worry you'll still have plenty of power and have fun (ironically) putting 1150 upgrade parts on the motor.
Click to expand...


You are correct, I cried the night it left my possession.
Over 100 hrs labor in that bike I would guess. Between paint and maintenance.
Now doing the same with my GK.
 
1150 Tail Light

1150 Tail Light

Hi Zach, you will see that I have a Canadian spec 1150EF, only bought it last year and it came with a bunch of gremlins.. one being the tail light, working one minute and then not, quick fix was to just jump it to the license plate light as it was working fine..
Then the battery level sensor was in op, and the headlight warning randomly comes on, but at least the light stays on, ...
In my searching I found
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=67151&highlight=removal+monitoring
In the tips and tricks forum; this unit is clearly problematic and only getting older.
I am getting prepared to get it out of storage and do some updates, compufire and ricks stator ready to install, new tyres, brake pads, voltmeter etc. but had "forgotten" this stuff until browsing just now, I do not even know where the monitoring box is located??
I also have a problem, that might be related, in the ignition switch, in one of the "lock" positions the tail light should stay on, but I found mine also left the headlight on!!
Cheers
 
Qcktvr!

Thank you for that bit! I'm glad I'm not the only one that has run into this kind of problem! I'll try testing the amps adding my tail light onto my headlight circuit will pull and compare it to the fuse. Maybe between the two of us we will find the best solution. If I run into any hitches I'll jump it to my license plate light. I'll check out your forum link, too.

How long have you had your EF now? Thanks again for the response!
Zach
 
I think I found my problem- when I found a lot more problems. I have loose, gray wire hanging out in my headlight that came loose from its crimp in one of the sealed electrical connectors in the headlight. The wiring diagram shows it heading down towards the license plate and running light. When I get any electric moving back on my bike, I'll test that wire more.

Stay tuned.

Oh, and I made a post for advice about my new no crank/no cluster lights problem here... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1846033#post1846033

Thanks all. 5150/gs, I'll give you a call in a bit.
 
zachdexter said:
I think I found my problem- when I found a lot more problems. I have loose, gray wire hanging out in my headlight that came loose from its crimp in one of the sealed electrical connectors in the headlight. The wiring diagram shows it heading down towards the license plate and running light. When I get any electric moving back on my bike, I'll test that wire more.
Click to expand...
I think the wiring on your bike will be a little different, with your monitor box and all, but on the older bikes, the gray wire feeds off the headlight circuit, then goes to the ignition switch. When the switch is in the ON position, the gray wire is connected to a brown wire that runs to the tail light. When the switch is in the PARK position, that brown wire to the tail light is connected straight to the red wire that comes from the battery, so only the tail light is turned on.

.
 
could be it came loose when I had the headlight of to fix the cluster right for ya.
Only electrical issue I ever had with her was when the r/r went and took that stator with it, Replaced with a shindengen and a new stator, was fine ever since.
The battery should be replaced tho , it was brand new in the fall,kept inside on a tender but lead acid batteries suck and we did have a problem keeping it charged after the winter.
 
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