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91 GS1100E Head job. Need help deciding.

  • Thread starter Thread starter c&c
  • Start date Start date
C

c&c

Guest
I read the Low Cost / High Performance GS1100E Head work and it's interesting bot I'm ignorant on the subject.

Not sure how to lay out the information but here it goes.

My GS is possessed! Last year I change the crank, new OEM head gasket, cleand carb and synced was working perfectly I was amazed how well it ran. But this year all hell broke loose. It's stuttering from the get go through all rev range. I once again cleand the carbs and it still does it. Yesterday, my first long ride of the year, it started to leak oil between cyl 2 and 3. not a small leak.. droplets. My valves are now leaking. I know of at least one which gives a silent fart like sound, one in a while, form carb 4 and I suspect carb 2. This bike it really putting my patience, determination and wallet to the test. I have checked the clearance 3 time and I am more then confident they are perfect.

Which brings me back to the valves. I read that lapping valves is total crap. A properly cut valve and seat is the way to go and I bereave it.
I am very tight on $$ right now and need to carefully plan this out. I am confident I can fix the oil leak, again!

What I ultimately want it to get this bike back on the road asap.

- Should I just get a valves and seat job? What is an estimate?

- Should I get a proper head job including: Cost estimate
porting: found one on ebay for 195$, ) I dont have the tools to do it might be a viable purchas.
Brass seat including radius cut using a Serdi.
( Valves : cost of stainless Kibblewhite Black Diamonds vs new cuts ?)
Intake 28mm valves.
Exhaust 23mm valves.
New guides
New seals.
Cams:Recommendations?

I'm in Montreal and would prefer a local shop but I would be more then willing to send it off to one of the local GSResources gurus preferably in Canada.

Can I use the above with stock pistons and carb?
I plan to get 1066 pistons later on and Yoshi carbs.

Come to think of it after typing all of the above maybe I should just get the valves and seats done and enjoy the rest of the season.
 
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If you just want to freshen it up there is NOTHING wrong with cleaning everything, lapping the valves & installing new valve stem seals. As long as the valves aren't loose in the guides you will be fine. I build heads, and GS engines. Feel free to call me at 714--356-784 five if you have questions.
Ray.
 
If you just want to freshen it up there is NOTHING wrong with cleaning everything, lapping the valves & installing new valve stem seals. As long as the valves aren't loose in the guides you will be fine. I build heads, and GS engines. Feel free to call me at 714--356-784 five if you have questions.
Ray.

I had 2 disintegrated crank bearings last year and took the head apart, removed all the valves, cleaned them and lapped them. Never changed the seals but will this time around.
I should have just left them alone. No valves where loose in the guides. I get the feeling I fked something up while lapping. Maybe mixed up a valve from another position.

- Should I disassemble the head, do a leak test and try to fix leaks by lapping. If it works fin and if not.. off to the shop?
- Do you think it will last the short northern season?
- Will I have to buy a new head gasket? The one on it now has less the 500km's.
- Valve gap. Manual says between .003 <-> .005. I have them at .005. Is this OK or should I set them to .003?


Yes lots of questions.
 
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Where should I get the valve seals from. OEM or aftermarket?

I would rather trust the OEM seals if it were me doing this. Ignore the price comparing. Just my .02........
 
I've decided to lap the leaking valves and change the valve seals. For the oil leak I'll check to make sure the head and block surface are level and if so will reuse the gasket and add some black gasket maker around the problem arias and hope it lasts for the season. But if the head/block need resurfacing I'll get that done and add a new gasket.

I'll leave the tweaking porting and all the good stuff for the winter months.
 
If it has over 40K it will need guides. New seals are not a substitute for worn out guides. APE still makes the parts for these older heads, guides, springs, retainers, and chrome stem stainless valves.

We do all of the head work in house, but are not considered "Budget"

11219473_752926678178295_6123887408381110591_o.jpg


http://www.aperaceparts.com/cylinderheads.html
 
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