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a bit confused on my 78 gs1000 R/R

  • Thread starter Thread starter 78GS1KNH
  • Start date Start date
7

78GS1KNH

Guest
I see that the original configuration has 2 separate R/R's.
Any suggestions on what to replace the two units with? I can get the originals from Suzuki, about 8 days.

I have searched the forums and haven't really found too much definite information on this.

my question is, what would people recommend for an aftermarket upgrade? I hear the compufire is a good brand, but don't quite understand how i would change from the 2 separate units to the one single unit.

The only reason i ask is because I've been having troubles keeping the battery charged. Seems to run for about a day or so, (which makes tuning kinda hard considering i have about 2 hours a day to work on it...) then the battery will drain dead. I replaced the battery last year, so i know that's not the problem. it just doesn't seem to be putting the juice to the battery that it needs. The current Rectifier, not the headlight one mounted flush with the plate but the one horizontal with the plate gets warm if the bike is run at about 5k. is this the only time that the unit should be charging?

Thanks for the help.
 
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Depends on what you want to spend. I went with the Compufire system. There are members selling later model Honda R/R's that are much better than the Sazuki system. You have a separate Rectifier and regulator. later models had a combined unit, both will work. Two of your stator wires were twined, about six inches down in the wiring bundle. I believe it was the yellow and the white/blue wire. The remaining wire was diverted through the on/off switch to turn it off with the light so it wouldn't overcharge. That's how bad they were. They also shunt to ground to keep from overcharging so they run 100% of the time, charging or shunting to ground. The advantage of the $180.00 Compufire system is that it switches off when it isn't needed therefore not heating up your oil when it is off (one of the advantages).
 
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The stator is aftermarket, has three yellow wires. as far as the harness goes, i had the stator cover off and took the stator out so i think i know which wires are which, one was connected to a green wire, and the other two i'm not so positive about. from your description it seems correct from memory (which is lacking these days... ) It seems like it would be a simple thing to replace it with a compufire. I may end up going that route if the good comments about it keep up.

Thank you all for your help!
- Jud
 
My Honda RR kit is practically a bolt in. On the older bikes it mounts on one of the original brackets and the connectors match the bike, making it a snap to install. I also include a few new connectors in case you have a damaged one to replace.

Cost is 45 dollars including shipping and I can ship immediately.
 
Mr. duaneage is the r/r DUDE!
gotmyvote.gif


Seriously, it's the best deal in town.

The Compufire units are great, but pricey.

Connect the three stator output wires directly to the r/r input wires. Like Mr. OldVtet66 says, you don't need that loop to the (usually non-existant) headlight switch on the handlebars. You can read about it (and see pictures) in the stator replacement guide on my little website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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Thanks so much guys

Thanks so much guys

I'm going to keep you posted on how the install goes. I ended up going with Mr. Duanage's R/R unit because i cannot justify $174 for the compu-fire unit when this one will work just as good.

Truly a lifesaver my friend. I thank you.


Mr. Basscliff - Without your website and knowledge, This bike would have either remained a lost cause, or a financial burden.
 
Hi,

Just remember, because of the way the Compufire unit regulates, having dirty connections in the charging system is not as critical. But with a regular shunting r/r unit, having clean connections is very important so as not to pass an inordinate amount of heat back to the stator.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

Just remember, because of the way the Compufire unit regulates, having dirty connections in the charging system is not as critical. But with a regular shunting r/r unit, having clean connections is very important so as not to pass an inordinate amount of heat back to the stator.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

Yes, and when installed as recommended, and voltage drop in the switched lead for the sensor wire will correspond to additional output from the R/R, which is to say that if the battery is fully charged but voltage drop at the sensor wire tells the R/R that the battery is not fully charged, then the R/R can continue to put out more power than needed and boil the water out of the battery.

One of my former bikes experienced overcharging from this, and toasted a battery on a cross country trip.

Lazy guy that I am, I moved the sensor wire to the battery So far so good, but isn't even quite 2 years yet...
 
ok, maybe i am a bit confused. I ripped apart the harness today revealing the new connector i put in last fall. I see how the white/blue line wires intertwine and the yellow wires intertwine. I may just be reading this incorrectly, but when you said they would be intertwined i thought you meant the yellow with the white/blue. With this Honda kit, I assume that i could just ignore all the old wires from the stator (white/blue, green, yellow) and run the red wire out from the unit to the fusebox and ground to the frame (pending clean location)? Will i need to fuse the R/R red wire to the fuse box? Or do i connect it on the outward side of the box? Does it actually matter?

here's a look at what I'm working with.
picture.php
 
Cliff,
I would say that on the stator side, poor connections are not nearly as bad with a SERIES R/R because there is a much reduced current in the stator ( don't recall the exact values but say 1/2). On the battery (Red +) and (Black -) side it is harder to make that argument, and most of the guidelines for a SHUNT R/R would apply the same to a SERIES.

Unless there is a sense wire either SHUNT or SERIES will regulate voltage internally so a voltage drop from R/R(+) to battery (+) will cause the same mis charging of the battery. Same applies at the negative side.
Jim

BassCliff said:
Hi,

Just remember, because of the way the Compufire unit regulates, having dirty connections in the charging system is not as critical. But with a regular shunting r/r unit, having clean connections is very important so as not to pass an inordinate amount of heat back to the stator.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...
 
posplayr said:
Unless there is a sense wire either SHUNT or SERIES will regulate voltage internally so a voltage drop from R/R(+) to battery (+) will cause the same mis charging of the battery. Same applies at the negative side.
Click to expand...

Thank you for keeping us on our toes Jim. I appreciate you expertise. I guess it's just a good idea to have clean connections everywhere regardless of which r/r unit you are using. :)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Hi,

I don't want to get in the way of Mr. rustybronco. I just want to share this.

Honda_RR_Colored.jpg


You will toss the old separate rectifier and regulator units. Connect the three output wires from the stator to the input wires on the new r/r unit. As stated in The Stator Papers, the stock Suzuki stator had different colors for the output wires but just consider them all "yellow" because the order doesn't matter how they are connected to the input wires on the new r/r unit.

Then green is ground, black is the "sense" wire, and red is the regulated output.

You may have a loop going up to a headlight switch on the handlebar. This can be disconnected and covered. I think it's explained in the Stator Replacement guide on my little website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

I don't want to get in the way of Mr. rustybronco.
Click to expand...
You're not...

the '78's 'Y' off two of the stator wires and as such one wire of each pair is redundant.

78gs1knh and I will discuss the connections and his modified harness when he gets the R/R from Duaneage. that and whatever else I can stick in His(?) head.
 
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I guess i just feel a bit slow today...

I guess i just feel a bit slow today...

Totally figured it out. the Y splits arent going to matter anyways since its one unit. the Y's just go back to the stator. (Man, do i feel dumb.) Came to this conclusion after re-reading the rectifier checks in the manual... how i did not see that is beyond me... Fig 11-13 really opened my eyes, Haha. I'll let you know how the install went!

Thanks again, and sorry for the confusion and lack of experience... maybe one day i'll have a finished product :o
 
ran some more tests on the stator yesterday to make sure the thing didn't fry from the bad OEM R/R, and just as i thought, the thing has continuity on every leg... no resistance at all between yellow wires. (from what I've read it should have at least a .5 ohm resistance) ordered a new ricks stator to go with this R/R kit, so hopefully with an entirely new charging system i shouldn't have any issues in the near future :)
 
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