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a bit confused on my 78 gs1000 R/R

  • Thread starter Thread starter 78GS1KNH
  • Start date Start date
78GS1KNH said:
ran some more tests on the stator yesterday to make sure the thing didn't fry from the bad OEM R/R, and just as i thought, the thing has continuity on every leg... no resistance at all between yellow wires. (from what I've read it should have at least a .5 ohm resistance) ordered a new ricks stator to go with this R/R kit, so hopefully with an entirely new charging system i shouldn't have any issues in the near future :)
Click to expand...
Continuity is GOOD in the legs of the stator. :rolleyes:

Just so you don't get confused, even 1000 ohms is "continuity". Zero ohms is also "continuity".
When wires are connected, the circuit is "continuous" and current can flow.

What you DON'T want is a break in the stator legs or continuity from any of the legs to a ground point. :o

.
 
Steve said:
Continuity is GOOD in the legs of the stator. :rolleyes:

Just so you don't get confused, even 1000 ohms is "continuity". Zero ohms is also "continuity".
When wires are connected, the circuit is "continuous" and current can flow.

What you DON'T want is a break in the stator legs or continuity from any of the legs to a ground point. :o

.
Click to expand...

Am i reading the stator papers and stator checks incorrectly in regards to each leg having no resistance between them? (when they state they should have at least .5-2.0 ohms?)
I'm an electrical newbie... for some reason I've always had difficulty with it...
 
78GS1KNH said:
Am i reading the stator papers and stator checks incorrectly in regards to each leg having no resistance between them? (when they state they should have at least .5-2.0 ohms?)
I'm an electrical newbie... for some reason I've always had difficulty with it...
Click to expand...

Hi,

You are reading it right. If you get 0.0 ohms between legs then the windings are shorted, probably due to melted insulation on the wires. Shorted windings do not produce AC, which is bad for charging systems and other living things. ;)

Like Mr. Steve says, "continuity" is just a fancy word for a "connection". Connections can have different resistance values.

This is a timely thread: Why Unloaded Stator tests are BAD.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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78GS1KNH said:
Am i reading the stator papers and stator checks incorrectly in regards to each leg having no resistance between them? (when they state they should have at least .5-2.0 ohms?)
I'm an electrical newbie... for some reason I've always had difficulty with it...
Click to expand...

Be very careful making sure your leads make good connections when checking the stator. I have a new spare stator because of false readings I got without making good contact in the connectors with the test leads.
 
I sat there for the better part of 30 minutes checking and rechecking the resistance between legs... 0.0 came up with every single leg i tested between the three.
 
78GS1KNH, have you measured the a.c. voltage of the stator with the bike running as of yet?
 
No only because i still am in the process of tuning and can't keep the battery charged enough to get good reads from the carbtune and the idle mixture.. THis is how i determined that my regulator was bad, as it was pushing nothing to the battery. Checked the connections and the regulator at 5krpm when i was looking into which piece could be the culprit, and the regulator was definitely bad, as it was pushing nearly nothing to the battery for charging voltage . I then looked into whether or not there was a short across the legs of the stator because of the failed regulator, and sure enough A-B showed 0.0, A-C showed 0.0, and B-C showed 0.0.
 
And we are to 'assume' your meter is working correctly? ;)

what resistance readings do you get between the legs of the stator and ground?

you can always pull the cover and take a peek at the stator.
 
lol, It has yet to fail me:)

I'm going to pull the cover hopefully this weekend to check and recheck my readings.
Time to get another bottle of locktite! :) I am though pretty sure the thing is dead. like paperweight dead. :)
 
78GS1KNH said:
I am though pretty sure the thing is dead. like paperweight dead. :)
Click to expand...
P/N 31401-49010 Fits...
Code: 
1978 Suzuki GS1000C	
1978 Suzuki GS1000EC	
1979 Suzuki GS1000EN	
1979 Suzuki GS1000LN	
1979 Suzuki GS1000N	
1979 Suzuki GS1000SN	
1980 Suzuki GS1000ET	
1980 Suzuki GS1000GLT
1980 Suzuki GS1000GT	
1980 Suzuki GS1000ST	
1980 Suzuki GS1100ET	
1980 Suzuki GS1100LT

I donna gotts no any to spare... :(
 
Went with a Ricks 21-303, but didn't pay $140 for it :) came to slightly less including shipping from the motorcycle warehouse.

the 21-303 is what http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/ recommended for my year and model.

plus, it came with a new rubber grommet for the wires whereas the Electrosport ones i would have to reuse the old one in there. Not to mention theres a 20% voltage increase in that unit, and i worry about the ancient electronics already on the bike.

I should have went down to the place and picked it up in person, but i was able to find it cheaper online, and that way i wont have to spend the $50 in gas it would take to get out to Hampstead... plus i'm really in no rush considering i'm still waiting on the r/r from Mr. Duaneage.

I went with Ricks only because of the number of awesome reviews that i have read in this forum. Not to mention supporting a local business :)
 
Ok. I got the new stator in, and i have the new regulator in, my question is the green/W wire and the white/red wire go back into the harness. Before I put the battery back in, and try to start the thing up, do i tie these off to eachother or do i leave them alone and tie them back into the harness?

Thanks! :)
 
You can plug them together, tie them back or use the switch loop to redirect one of your stator leads through the light switch to cut it off if you turn the headlight off, as it was originally designed. I don't imagine the new R/R would need to have a phase switched, but it wouldn't hurt either. Eventually, I am going to wire my headlight to be on all the time, and use the switch and those wires for driving lights.
 
Yeah the new R/R unit is much different then the old one. Hooked up the Red(+) wire to where the red wire from the original rectifier was, the ground (-) to a common frame ground, and the black wire (signal) to the Orange/Green wire that goes to the headlights/ turn signals after the connector in the harness.

According to the wiring diagram for the 1980 GS1000, It seems that the green/white and the White/red only go to the switch, and hook up to nothing?
 
I guess I wasn't clear enough. Originally you had five wires (actually only three). The two yellow and two white/blue wires from the stator were twinned in order to split to the separate rectifier and regulator. the white/green wire went up to the light switch, I believe on the white/red, and came back as white/green. This cut off that leg of the stator if you switched off the light because the system would overcharge without the headlight pulling a load. You can check the white/red and white/green with a multimeter on your Ohms setting or Continuity position depending on the meter. The stator wires for your replacement stator are all yellow, so the old color code is a moot point from that direction. I plugged my remaining white/red and white/green together just to get them out of the way, or they can be left unplugged, they just go to one contact point on the switch and are not connected to anything else in the switch. A few years later, headlights were required to be on all the time, so that system was no longer used.
 
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Ok, so i just placed them back into the harness, hooked up the battery, checked it with the multi meter, and got ~14v at the battery at about 2000 RPM :) Looks like she's gonna be allset!! :) Thank you very much!
 
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