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A couple of clutch questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter MFerioli
  • Start date Start date
M

MFerioli

Guest
I plan on removing the clutch cover and replacing the springs with new stock, hopefully this will take care of the super stiff clutch I have now. (cable runs smooth and free)

The clutch also grabs in first and I can't seem to adjust it out enough so that it won't grab but also won't slip, anything I should look at as a possible culprit while I'm in there?

Anything I should order with the springs that I should replace anyways? (things could be really old in there)

Also I can't seem to find the clutch cover gasket on bike bandit, do they have one? If not where should I get it?

Thanks a ton for any help!!

Mike
 
Try mrcycles.com for the gasket.
I'd take out the fibers, check them with a caliper and check the steels for warpage.
The spec for the fibers will be in your manual.
 
use a torq wrench on that hub nut, propper is better, look at the basket , and look for grooves where the fiber plates slide in, if there are grooves they will keep the plates forom sliding right, that will cause drag,and keep the clutch from working right, you can file them smooth again if there not bad, new springs is a good idea

also check the routing of the cable its self! this will change the cable so dramatically!, check these things and let use know
 
gasket

gasket

i had to go to the suzuki dealer for the clutch cover gasket. they seem to have a lock down on them out here.
 
MFerioli said:
I plan on removing the clutch cover and replacing the springs with new stock, hopefully this will take care of the super stiff clutch I have now. (cable runs smooth and free)

The clutch also grabs in first and I can't seem to adjust it out enough so that it won't grab but also won't slip, anything I should look at as a possible culprit while I'm in there?

Anything I should order with the springs that I should replace anyways? (things could be really old in there)

Also I can't seem to find the clutch cover gasket on bike bandit, do they have one? If not where should I get it?

Thanks a ton for any help!!

Mike
Click to expand...
Might be a good find to get a complete gasket set. So you have any on hand, for checking valve clearances, ect. There's one HERE https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=gs&category=engine
for $60
 
Thanks for all the ideas.

I found a gasket on Z1, I probably should buy a whole set, but I just did replace the valve cover gasket and the cam chain tensioner gasket.

I'll definitely be checking for basket grooves and plate thickness deviations.

What I noticed about the stiffness is that if I disconnect the cable at the case and try and move the little clutch arm by hand, its really tough. I have to use my foot to push the thing. It feels smooth, just stiff, which seems to support the spring theory. The cable seems fine, as it pulls nice and easy once I disconnect it, even if I simulate pressure on it from the case end.

Is it best to replace all the fiber plates at the same time, or just any that are out of spec?
 
FYI, I did find the gasket on bike bandit under the "crankase-cover" fiche.

Bike Bandit - $14.03

Z1 - $2.73

I hope the one I got from Z1 is correct and of decent quality.
 
I changed the clutch springs yesterday...no difference. Everything else looked ok, there was some wear on the basket, but not enough to cause the fibers to grab.

I do have some kind of aftermarket clutch lever assembly (on there when I bought it) that is smaller than the stock one. Could this not be providing adequate leverage? Also maybe the range is not adeqaute to provide full seperation.

The oil and filter seemed really old and the clutch seemed to grab less with fresh oil in there. Has anyone noticed old oil causing extra friction?

I'll be looking for an original clutch lever assembly for sure.
 
Unfortunately I don't. I might be able to take one later when I get home, if it stops raining. :(
 
I have read that detergent and friction modifiers in automotive oil can cause clutch issues. When you had the clutch apart did you check the thickness of the plates?
 
What kind of oil did you use?? If you put some of that "energy conserving" garbage in there, wich i made the mistake of doing once, it will slip.
 
I forget the oil brand. I got it off the shelf at a local suzuki dealer, it was just standard 10w-40 motorcycle oil.

Unfortunately I didn't have the necessary tools to check the plate thickness. But all the metals and fibers looked to be in good shape. Metals were flat and the fibers were all worn evenly.

Really worn fibers would cause slippage and not grabbage right??
 
I had the same problem on one of my old Honda Cb's. It had a different perch on it with a lever that wasn't designed for the perch, so the leverage point was way off...just an Idea.

Jeff (teet)
 
Thanks, I'm going to track down an original. I wanted to get one anyways. I don't see what else it could be.
 
While all you clutch guru's are here I've got a quick question about the clutch basket mod I see talked about on some other models, mostly GS1000/1100/1150 bikes I think.

Should this be done on a street only GS1100 and should it be done on any other models? I've got a spare basket for my GS750ES over under a bench....

/\/\ac
 
If your clutch is "grabby" the fiber drive discs might just be "dry" with respect to oil. This does happen to bikes that sit for years without being used. Is the bike very hard to get into gear from neutral? You might just be able to dissasemble the discs, throw in your new springs, soak all the plates, re-assemble and you should be good to go.

I also agree with Chef, if your drive plates look excessivly overheated "blueish" they are probably warped...

A lot of people don't realize if you have 25 year old original clutch springs, they are probably "laxed" and junk. The clutch slips, but sometimes you don't know it, keep driving it, and this really overheats and trashes the clutch quickly..
 
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Get a digital multimeter from a Auto parts store or Wal-mart and measure those fibers.
Clean all the steels with steel whool and get rid of any glazing.
The fibers can get hard and won't grab if they sat with no oil on them for a long period of time. If this is the case I would replace the fibers or soak them as Mr. Clam suggested.
 
All the fiber plates were wet and dark, none looked dry at all. The bike was run daily by the last owner.

If the clutch lever isn't the problem, then I will definetely crack the case again measure all the plates, clean all the metal and replace any plates that are even remotely close to being worn.

Sometimes I have to rock the bike a bit when its cold to get it into first, but that doesn't seem all that abnormal does it?

I think the plates had some hints of blue, but nothing that jumped out as excessive.

Thanks for that advice.
 
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