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A skunk in the works

  • Thread starter Thread starter SVSooke
  • Start date Start date
2012_04140002.jpg

Thanks RB and FB but it looks like my soldering idea worked just fine:dancing:
 
You've probably annealed the brass to the point it doesn't have much tension left to maintain a strong pressure against the fuse. Keep an eye on it and have a spare terminal lying around just in case it fails.
 
Seems to have lots of tension.But I was going to keep an eye on it anyway.Put the fuse back in.No problems,at least so far.
 
Last edited:
cowboyup3371 said:
Greg, why not just replace it with a blade style fuse block?
Click to expand...
A reason familiar to both of us,no $$.Or I'm committing the money to the "big" ticket items of a chain and tires.Going to see how much a blade type is.
2012_04140003.jpg

2012_04140005.jpg

Pity is the one I have here is mounted so differently.Hmmmm i just didn't want to mod the panel,but looking at it now I'm going "why not?".
 
I can't look at the pictures here at work right now but I bought mine for $10 or so from www.wiringproducts.com (see my rebuild thread for more info) and it's worked out alright. I know that costs might be higher going your way but I'm sure your local auto parts store should have something.

Course, that Eastern Beaver one is REALLY nice and expensive:eek:
 
Was thinking I needed to get a different fuse box but as I was I came up with a way to use the 83 750 box.Stay tuned:twistedevil:
 
2012_04190002.jpg

WoooHoooo drive's all here!Front 17t I got from Katman and the chain and 46t rear I got locally for a killer price.
2012_04170001.jpg

No it's not gold like the box cover but I'm good to go.Waiting on headlight ears.
 
2012_04210003.jpg

Was going to ask how to fix the PO stripping of the insulation.Then I remembered seeing liquid electrical tape.......DAOH:rolleyes:
Still waiting on the ears so not much done:(
 
shrink tubing as well ?, but since you have to go over the original cover it might be a bit too big to shrink so much to be tight on the wire as well....and you would have to remove the wires from the black connector as well first
 
To put shrink wrap on them I'd have to cut and solder them.Trying to avoid that on the uncut ones.
2012_04220001.jpg

Headlight ears came today.See the difference?Just enough to be a PITA.
2012_04220002.jpg

About to be prepared for paint
2012_04220006.jpg

And painted.Have to redo the one with the drag mark:o
 
Greg....thats the cifference in the orientation of the square hole i was talking about. My solution was to remove the male tab that locks the turn signal stem into the white adapter thing. At that point you can rotate the turn signals till they are pitched the way you want them. Use a good dab of ABS glue on the white insert, put the light on and set it and let the glue dry. Then finish doing the wire hookups .
 
chuck hahn said:
Greg....thats the cifference in the orientation of the square hole i was talking about. My solution was to remove the male tab that locks the turn signal stem into the white adapter thing. At that point you can rotate the turn signals till they are pitched the way you want them. Use a good dab of ABS glue on the white insert, put the light on and set it and let the glue dry. Then finish doing the wire hookups .
Click to expand...
2012_04230002.jpg

They are 850 ears,same signal orientation just like Dale said.
 
2012_04230004.jpg

Chuck I only have 2 sets of ears.With no mods it looks right to me.
Don't try to not stubborn me bub.
 
If you 'must' sand a base coat, 2000 grit is much too fine a grit to use. Sanding with 600 grit followed by another coat of base before spraying clear would be more appropriate.

Why do you feel to need to sand your color? Is it because of dust? If that's the issue, make a wooden frame work 'booth' covered in plastic, wet the floor for dust control and shoot your paints inside it.
 
Using Dupli-color lacquer as a base coat Dale,every thing I've read says wet sand between coats.News to me that you don't:confused:
 
You can sand lacquer, but don't expect clear to stick very well to a surface that's been sanded with 2000 grit. 2000 grit is used for when you are going to compound or rub the final finish coats.

I really don't know what to recommend to use between lacquer coat as it's been 30 years since I've sprayed the stuff and can't remember what I used back then. I'm thinking 800~1000 grit might be in order after every 3~4 coats.

What do you plan on using for clear?
 
Cool,1000 grit I have.Have 2K left over from Yeller so I'm using that over the lacquer.Funny thing is I hear all the time here how lacquer clear melts at gas.Did a 81 GS650E in all lacquer including the clear and I don't remember any problems.
 
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