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A step away from Wit's End......

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rocketman
  • Start date Start date
Great advice from all, and here's the plan. Today I'm pulling off the tank. Tomorrow I'm ordering brand new stock coils with plug caps & wires. I'm gonna spray the intake boots up today to make 10000% sure I have no intake leaks. As for the carbs, I can't rebuild the whole thing, but I'm going to pull off the bowls off carb #1 & #2, and spray the hell out of the inside with carb cleaner, and hopefully if there is some microscopic crap plugging up a jet I can get to it this way. Hopefully the idle circuit is down there too. As far as the Dyna S goes, the mechanic left inside the side cover the little black box that has 7 wires coming out of it which junctions with a white plastic plug, plus one black wire separate from that bunch, which joins with a male/female adapter in a clear plastic cover. He said the new Dyna replaces this black box, although 4 new Dyna wires replacing 7 old black box concerns me, and why was the old box left inside still connected..another mystery. ANyway that's the plan. And I'll let you all know what I find.
 
rocket, read your sparkplugs before the 20 minutes and after. they should give you an indication as to what is happening in your combustion chamber both electrically and fuel wise.

do you have a clymer manual? it gives you proper voltages and ohm readings for your electrical gear. also a wiring diagram for your bike.ikazuki
 
Got the book, but archived notes on this site are much better than any book. Tank is now off; as is air box, carbs & coils. Will be ordering new OEM coils, plug wires, boots & caps tomorrow to eliminate all doubt. Already have new Dyna S installed. Will update when new coils are installed. How the hell I can clean out a potentially clogged jet in either carb #1 or 2 is yet to be determined. Easy to get four screws holding bowl on bottom of carb. Top four screws ain't coming off without dynomite. Do you know if I can get to the idle jet from the bottom near the bowl or not??
 
Blow carb cleaner into your main jet with the pilot jet rubber cap on and then with it off. Also use air if you have it. Check float adjustment while the carbs are out. If you have the carbs off and some time on your hands, buy a berrymans carb dip and some o-rings from Robert Barr and do the carbs yourself and you'll have no questions about the carbs being clean or not.
 
Rocketman,

If the symptoms change significantly between cold and hot running the most likely culprits are electrical connections, coils, plug wires and/or caps, intake leak, or a lean condition. While you're waiting for coils, wires, boots and caps you can try spraying the wires and caps with silicone spray. If the symptoms improve you're on the right track. Since you have the tank off, get some electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease and clean and grease EVERY connector you can find. Take the headlight off and do the same to all the connectors in there too. Take a close look at each connector for corrosion or signs of heat. Even if this doesn't fix your problem it will give you some peace of mind and possibly save you from another problem somewhere down the line. Also, spraying the intake boots is a very good idea. A small intake leak will cause problems at low rpm where the intake vacuum is low but not at higher rpms where the intake vacuum is much higher.

Good luck,
Joe
 
Thanks for the thoughts Joe. Can' t really test for leaks right now, as the bike is mostly disassembled and in piles on my garage floor. To totally eliminate some things, I'm ordering new OEM coils, plug wires, plug boots & caps first thing tomorrow. These added to the new Dyna S installed last week should eliminate most if not all ignition issues.
Intake leaks I will check once re-assembled by spraying boots, but the originals are fairly pliable and show no visible signs of cracks, etc., either on the air box side or the cylinder side.
Carbs were just stripped apart and rebuilt less than a month ago. Bringing them back to mechanic tomorrow to see if main jet might be clogged with some crap in either carb 1 or 2, which are the two shutting down at idle. I sprayed carb cleaner and air through the bottom after removing the float bowls, but I'm not confident enough to remove jets, and can't physically remove the carb top, although I don't think there are any jets up top anyway.
I will pick up contact cleaner & grease tomorrow, and will sand off any rusted contacts, and just clean up other ones to see if it helps. Thanks again.
Larry
 
Accell coils, new wires and plug caps going in tomorrow. Carb #1 & #2 are being rebuilt (again) today. Will try to figure out voltage drop this week. When does the bleeding end?:cry:
 
When does the bleeding end?

It doesn't, but soon the rejoicing begins, when you get back on the road.

I can say I was in your shoes, {well, maybe your sneakers} recently...

Last year replaced r/r with a honda mod, it lasted well, but the bad wires killed that one too.

replaced it earlier this year, but got a bad one: the diodes tested okay, but it had a power sense wire/circuit that did not, it ended up frying my ignitor. got a new ignitor, r/r, redid a whole lot of wires and crimps, and replaced the melted fuse panel....

several months later I can now ride!
 
Just another couple of ideas.........Maybe you've done this already, maybe not-Clean all your ground wires, ground them to the battery, not the frame. When you open your carbs up, check for a little piece of sh!!t in the float valve. It'll hide there and if you're not using a good penlight (mag lite etc.) and maybe a magnifieing glass you probably won't see it. Simple sh!t can and will drive you crazy.:-|
 
I actually hope I never hear the dirt hit the casket, otherwise somebody fugggged up REAL BAD!

I will clean and blow out the carbs to the point where they are surgically clean. And I will try to find all electrical connections & grounds, and clean the crap out of them.

Arie, I'm really looking forward to getting together. Everytime I bring the bike home it runs great, until it gets really hot after about 1/2 hour, and then craps out at idle. So I am working on it daily. Even if I can't fix it, I'll push the damn bike behind you on 231, so at least we can say we rode together. It may run like crap now, but it sure looks pretty. Kind of the opposite of having a wicked ugly girlfriend with a great personality!



Larry
 
Funny thing is, I bought my bike brand new out of the crate in '83 as an '82 leftover for $2800, and paid for it on two Visa credit cards. Would have bought the 1100L but couldnlt afford the additional $300. Wish I had a time machine and could go back shopping then, with today's money!
 
Gosh,

I wish mine were still that pretty.:oops: I guess not riding it has it's benefits.:-D

One day I want to work on the bike and make it look better.... otoh, I'd rather ride...
 
Hey Rocketman. Try changing the plug wires first. They may be your problem. If their not copper centers, they brake down with age, kinda
like me.
Beautiful bike, beauty and the beast........
 
Ditto. Change the plug wires before getting too heavy into anything else; it's easy and cheap and if it doesn't fix the problem, well you still have nice new plug wires.

Had exactly that problem with my Honda 650 Nighthawk (the '84, sweet bike!). Start up and run fine, then once it got hot (15-20 mins or so) it would sputter and cough and die on me. Sometimes after sitting for 10 or 15 minutes (during which time I could think up new ways of cursing out the bike) it would run fine. Guy at the local shop told me to change the plug wires, which I did, and PROBLEM SOLVED!
 
I really think you should try things 1 at a time until you find the source of your problem. That way you will know exactly what is causing the grief next time and can go straight to the source. I find that if I do too many things in search of one problem and it is fixed I am never really sure what was the cure. :-k Does anybody know if plugs that have built up resistance would get to be more of a problem as they get hotter?
 
Its not so much the plugs building resistance; its the plug wires. They have to carry a lot of energy, and when they go bad cannot do so.

ditto u on the 1 ata time.
 
Does he have molded in wires ? If so, does he need to change the coils too ?
 
I currently have the stock Suzuki 25 year old white coils with molded in plug wires. Had the mechanic rebuild carbs for 2nd time, and should have them back today or tomorrow. Would have gotten them back sooner, but he ran out of o-rings, and did not want to use the old (new) ones he just put in a few weeks ago, as they were apparently not tight enough.
Once I get the bike put back together, I'm bringing it back to him to install Accell coils with new wires, caps, etc. He says these put out something like 40,000 volts, and are much better than replacing with OEM coils. Price installed is about $200, which is the same as OEM coils, wires and caps for parts alone from Flat Our Motorcycles, where I've been buying parts from.
He says carbs are perfect and has ruled out fuel problem-leaning towards ignition problem which reflects heating up issues. Already installed new Dyna S, and that should finish ignition issues. If that doesn't work, electrical shorts and bad connections is the next step, mostly anything near the engine that heats up. Again, bike runs wicked strong at any speed and has no issues getting up over 80 mph+. Just when I stop after bike is warmed up, idle drops from normal of 1000-1100, to 400-500 and stalls immediately on acceleration, but starts right up. Process of elimination will most likely yield the culprit, and I appreciate everybody's help and patience.
And yes, Arie, I'd much rather have a real ugly dirty bike that runs well, then what I've got now. But hopefully, soon I'll have both a looker and a runner.
praying1.gif
 
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