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A step away from Wit's End......

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rocketman
  • Start date Start date
>>I'd much rather have a real ugly dirty bike that runs well, then what I've got now. But hopefully, soon I'll have both a looker and a runner.<<

Crap.

Mine is definitely no longer "pretty" :(, but it was nice riding to work today. Maybe next week we'll put a ride together
 
I just read all through this thread. It appears that you are on your way to getting the bike up and running, but I am surprised the following (excepted from your original post) received no comments:

" Weird thing is, at idle, if I pull plug caps off plug #3 or #4, bike shuts off immediately. When I do the same for #1 or #2, no change in idle, no nothing. "


Cylinders 3 and 4 are maintaining the engine at idle.
Cylinders 3 and 4 operate on separate coils

Obviously cylinders 3 and 4 are doing most of the the work in keeping keep the engine running at idle, so the problem is NOT electrical; it is fuel-related.

The carbs have been cleaned twice, but there is little said about their set-up, except for needle and jet adjustments..

I would suggest a simple approach for repair. It takes a bit of work, as the carbs have to be off, but what you basically need to do is visually set up each butterfly valve while the carbs are off the bike. They should all open and close at the same exact moment, and visually you can get very close.


Edit:

When you do this task, be sure to back off the large idle screw completely.

If the butterflies are unbalanced, then no amount of adjustment to needles/jets will make much difference, and your problem will continue.
 
I asked you a while back if you read your plugs when the idle dropped - did you? If you find one black/sooty plug and the rest OK, you've found the problem. I won't go into fixing it until you confirm.
 
This could be a longshot, but have you tried checking the gas level in the carb bowls. If your floats are not set right you will run with little or no gas in the bowl, and in turn not get any gas through the carb. ( if someone already suggested this I'm sorry for wasting this reply:oops: )

Take care and ride safe :)
 
As I am not an ace mechanic, most of the serious work has been done by my mechanic who has been rebuilding Suzukis for many years. He came highly recommended by a racing frined of mine, and I think he's doing a fine job so far. The 2 carb rebuilds were complete with all new parts, completely disassembled and cleaned. New jets, needles, o-rings, and synched. Spark plugs were dusty white, and idle mixture was adjusted to richen, as he says these bikes run inherantly lean. Just picked up carbs yesterday, and have to re-assemble bike over the weekend. Back to mechanic on Tuesday to install Accell coils, then we'll see. Mechanic says fuel isn't the problem, and he's leaning towards ignition, but with new coils, wires & caps & Dyna S, that pretty much ends those issues. We'll see by mid next week. And BELIEVE ME, I really appreciate everybody's input. Each of you has had, or heard of a similar problem, and everyone has their opinion as to how to fix it. Wish I could have one big-ass GS party at my house on Long Island and I'd supply the beer & burgers. I'd have all you guys rip my bike apart, and I'm sure it would be up and running in a day, but as you're all over the planet, I have to place my trust in my mechanic for now.
 
Rocketman said:
Wish I could have one big-ass GS party at my house on Long Island and I'd supply the beer & burgers.
Click to expand...

I'm there! \\:D/ :-D \\:D/

Oh wait, I live in California. :oops:

Good luck with the bike!

Ed
 
Please go back and re-read my last post.

Your bike may have some electrical concerns, but the information you supplied says that is NOT what is causing your immediate problems.

Clean carbs are wonderful, but they are no better than filthy carbs until they have been set up. No, that does not mean you need a dyno to do this, it just means a basic set-up and you can do the fine tuning later.

Based on the information supplied earlier, you have a fuel problem.


If your mechanic is still telling you to invest more dollars in electrical items to improve a fuel-related problem, you need, at the very least, to re-state your concerns to him/her/it. Otherwise, review your relationship with that mechanic.
 
Rocketman,.......sorry to see you going thru all this,......especially since last week i finally cured my carb problems..........i felt you pain!

Just a thought,.........any possibility your petcock (1 word not 2, :-D ) might be clogged?

Seems to me that when you say the problem is most pronounced AFTER a high speed run on full warm up,.......and then at idle it dies out,........

........could be the high speed run has drained the fuel out of the carbs to a low bowl level,.......maybe not enough to keep her from running with the extra vacumn of high speeds,...........

....................but not enough fuel flow at idle,.........at least for not for awhile.

................something simple like this can drive you nuts!

I'd at least check out the petcock and tank to remove as much residue as you can find. My "riding" GS850L tank looked real nice inside,.........but the parts bike i just got in today had a lot of rust in the tank hindering it's running. (but for now it's just a parts bike!)

Heck, the guy even drove in from Ohio to upstate New York for me. It's in decent shape with Vetter saddlebags for $550, and $225 for delivery. (same exact GS850L model as mine and yours originals)

He was spending the night in a motel and i decided to pick that up and directed him and his wife to a local "Golden Coral" buffet,...............so i added in a bonus of $65 bucks 'cause i was so grateful HE did all the driving. (around 700 miles each way i think).
 
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Again, I appreciate everyone's help & advice. My mechanic says he synched the carbs before he gave the bike back to me last time. Fuel petcock could be an issue, but I don't think I'd be running nearly as well as I am if it were clogged. Re-installed carbs last night, re-assembled whole bike, started up with no problem, but fuel ****ing out of carb #2 like Niagara Falls. Think its the float bowl gasket, and on a Sunday, hard to find a replacement. Guess you can only take the bowl off so many times before the gasket is dead. Will resume my hell on Monday, and see where the week takes me.
 
Is fuel leaking out the over flow tube? If so, the float is stuck in the down position which is not super unusual when first installing the carbs. You can try tapping on the float bowl with the plastic handle of a screwdriver to get the float to drop if this is the case.

Good luck.
 
Nope. Doesn't seem to be coming out of the air box drain tube, or the 2 carb vent tubes. Think its the float bowl gasket, or float bowl drain screw o-ring down low. Should be fairly simple fix now that I have done this about a bazillion times in the last month & can remove my carbs & air box in about 11 freakin' seconds flat, blindfolded, with one hand tied behind my back, and my four kids tugging at me in every direction.
 
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