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A twofer-Q about chain and noise

  • Thread starter Thread starter ShirleySerious
  • Start date Start date
S

ShirleySerious

Guest
Got two questions here. I want to clean off the drive chain on my '78 550E, but I can never figure out how to remove it. Anyone know how to remove it, and once it's off, what to use to clean it?

Also, my bike has been making a strange clicking/tapping noise. This only happens when the bike is warmed up, and when I'm going at least 25 mph and I lay off the throttle. When I accelerate or stay at a constant speed, the noise doesn't happen.
 
A lot of people just spray down with WD40 from what I've been reading. I just tried it before a long ride and there is plenty of lube. In fact enough to cover the underpart of the bike and the guy behind me. To be fair though, I don't have a chain guard.
 
The noise sounds like you may have enough slack in the chain that it is hitting the swingarm on the lower run on de acceleration. Just a guess though. To take the chain off, if you have a masterlink, you need only remove the clip and link. If you have an endless chain, you would need to remove the rear wheel and swingarm or use a chainbreaker to break the chain and then install a new rivet link.

Earl

Got two questions here. I want to clean off the drive chain on my '78 550E, but I can never figure out how to remove it. Anyone know how to remove it, and once it's off, what to use to clean it?

Also, my bike has been making a strange clicking/tapping noise. This only happens when the bike is warmed up, and when I'm going at least 25 mph and I lay off the throttle. When I accelerate or stay at a constant speed, the noise doesn't happen.
 
BTW, these two questions weren't intended to be related to each other. I just didn't want to start another topic.

My chain is the original, AFAIK, so I'm not sure if it has a master link or is endless. How would I find out?
 
Just put the bike on the centerstand and rotate the rear wheel a foot at a time by hand and look at the sideplates on the chain. A masterlink will have a small metal split end clip that snaps into a round groove on the two pins in that link. The clip holds the sideplate in position. I have no idea if GS's were manufactured with endless chains or not as I have never bought one that had low enough miles on it to have the original chain.

Earl

BTW, these two questions weren't intended to be related to each other. I just didn't want to start another topic.

My chain is the original, AFAIK, so I'm not sure if it has a master link or is endless. How would I find out?
 
i just cleaned my chain, but i didnt want to (for a couple reasons) take it off the bike....i took off the front sprocket, then ran the chain through a bath of wd 40 in a small pan under the bike, worked at it with a small bristle brush and got it pretty spanking clean.
 
Just put the bike on the centerstand and rotate the rear wheel a foot at a time by hand and look at the sideplates on the chain. A masterlink will have a small metal split end clip that snaps into a round groove on the two pins in that link. The clip holds the sideplate in position. I have no idea if GS's were manufactured with endless chains or not as I have never bought one that had low enough miles on it to have the original chain.

Earl
Since I have a shaftie this is not an issue for me!
Anyway, I believe that when you put the chain back together, the split end clip should be "open end" facing the forward rotation of the chain, correct?
 
NO. The closed end of the clip when the masterlink is on the top run of the chain should have the closed end forward. You want the chain pulling towards the closed end.

Earl

 
I've had good results using:

* a pan under the bike
* a quart or so of kerosene (cheaper than WD40 but does the same job)
* a squirt bottle (you can use an empty Windex bottle)
* a stiff nylon bristle brush
* some rags

I clean it while its still on the sprockets.

Just be careful not to get a finger caught while rotating the chain.

I do this once a year. I don't know if its even necessary with modern
sealed chains but it makes me feel good to see it clean for about a week.

I see someone already posted about how you don't need to worry
about this with shaft bikes. Let the age old debate begin :)
 
NO. The closed end of the clip when the masterlink is on the top run of the chain should have the closed end forward. You want the chain pulling towards the closed end.

Earl
thanks for the correction- didn't want to mislead anyone!
 
My 83 had a continuous link chain. As it was corroded badly I just cut though the rivets on one link to take it off. The new replacement chains are pretty much all masterlink type now. When putting on the masterlink you should smear on some silicon paste or the like over the clip to keep it in place. A little trick taught me by my pro wrench.

If you want to clean the chain you put it in a large can or bucket or whatever and immerse it in kerosene or mineral spirits, turpentine anything but gas. If you are lucky enough you might even have a parts washer. Use a stiff bristle brush to get the crud out of each link. When it is mostly clean dump the dirty fluid an put in some fresh to rinse. Wipe it dry on a shop towel and lube with your favourite chain lube or chain wax. Reinstall

Don't know what your noise might be there are so many that a bike can make.

Good luck with the chain maintenance.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
"My 83 had a continuous link chain. As it was corroded badly I just cut though the rivets on one link to take it off. The new replacement chains are pretty much all masterlink type now. When putting on the masterlink you should smear on some silicon paste or the like over the clip to keep it in place. A little trick taught me by my pro wrench"

Are you talking about regular silicone "gasket type"? I have lost a couple of clips in the past. and find it puzzling and scary.
 
Got two questions here. I want to clean off the drive chain on my '78 550E, but I can never figure out how to remove it. Anyone know how to remove it, and once it's off, what to use to clean it?

Also, my bike has been making a strange clicking/tapping noise. This only happens when the bike is warmed up, and when I'm going at least 25 mph and I lay off the throttle. When I accelerate or stay at a constant speed, the noise doesn't happen.

For cleaning, WD40 or kerosene work well and don't mess up the O-rings if it is an O-ring type chain. Unless your chain is really a mess, simply spray on WD40 and work the crud off with a rag. It works very well and will remove all manner of dried lube, grease and gunk.

Your noise description sounds like chain slap, which comes from a very loose chain. How is the adjustment? If you have to adjust it, stay on the loose side for longer chain life and fewer chain related problems.

Mark
 
All GSs were originally fitted with "Endless chains".

I agree, your noise does sound like chain slap. However, if there is a popping noise, I would start to worry about binding on a twisted or high tooth. Generally, when you replace the chain its best to do the sprockets as well.
 
Chain cleanup

Chain cleanup

I am happy to get the info on cleaning the chain, having just put a new one on to replace the very rusted and stiff chain that was on the bike. I have ridden it enough to adjust the tension once and now I know how to keep it clean. This is my first chain bike since the late 50's and it's much better than the old chains I was used to. I really like the chain drive and don't notice a big difference when I ride the BMW or Goldwing bikes. As long as the power transfer is smooth and strong it doesn't seem to matter a great deal how it gets to the drive wheel.
Lee :-)
 
I am happy to get the info on cleaning the chain, having just put a new one on to replace the very rusted and stiff chain that was on the bike. I have ridden it enough to adjust the tension once and now I know how to keep it clean. This is my first chain bike since the late 50's and it's much better than the old chains I was used to. I really like the chain drive and don't notice a big difference when I ride the BMW or Goldwing bikes. As long as the power transfer is smooth and strong it doesn't seem to matter a great deal how it gets to the drive wheel.
Lee :-)

Well, conversely, the 1100G i bought recently would be my first SHAFT drive bike. I notice just as smooth power delivery with the shaft as a propperly maintained chain. Whats kind of nice is that i now can hear my motor spinning (as i love that sound personally) without chain noise. However, me being a nut case, I find myself hearing things that i would have never heard on a chain drive, so it took me a little while to get used to hearing EVERYTHING thats going on down there. Having said that, the only thing i find a bit annoying about a shaftie is the inability to play with gear ratios like you can with a chain. Everyone complains about maintenence costs, but ive been able to find final drives on ebay relatively frequently, and MOST of them, in good condition, go for less than the cost of a good o-ring chain.
 
I am happy to get the info on cleaning the chain, having just put a new one on to replace the very rusted and stiff chain that was on the bike. I have ridden it enough to adjust the tension once and now I know how to keep it clean. This is my first chain bike since the late 50's and it's much better than the old chains I was used to.

Lee :-)

I hope you changed out sprockets as well, worn sprockets will eat a new chain in no time.

You will find new O or X -ring chains are very good nowadays. I had a 97 ZX-9 that had just under 30,000km on the OEM chain and still had life left in it when I sold the bike. My current 06 GSXR1K has not even needed an adjustment in the first 11,000km.

Just a small effort spent on maintenance will get you lots of miles from that new chain and many years of service. Keep it clean, keep the rust off and enjoy.

Mark
 
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