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adjust the brakes gs 750e

  • Thread starter Thread starter corybsv
  • Start date Start date
C

corybsv

Guest
Hey there,
I replaced all the rotors on my 1983 gs 750e and now the distance between the pads is too narrow to fit the rotors in. The new rotors are in great shape and the old ones were really worn down. Any suggestions on how to adjust the brakes?
thanks
Cory
 
corybsv said:
Hey there,
I replaced all the rotors on my 1983 gs 750e and now the distance between the pads is too narrow to fit the rotors in. The new rotors are in great shape and the old ones were really worn down. Any suggestions on how to adjust the brakes?
thanks
Cory
Click to expand...

Open the bleeders one at a time and squeeze the fluid out with a channel lock (or some type of clamp) to full open on the piston. Closing the bleeder at the end of the stroke. Then do the same to the other side. Will exceed the max. thickness of your new rotors even with brand new pads. Don't contaminate the pads. Better to do this with no pads or the old pads installed. If you can't open them far enough you will end up rebuilding the cylinders too as they are corroded.

When installed squeeze the brake to engage the pads. Then bleed off any air. Replace all the brake fluid too with new. Don't be too shocked if the fluid that comes out of the pistons is really rusty.

Then say: "Tada".
 
What twistedwankel said if your brake fluid is old, but you should be able to press the pots back with a wrench in between them and your thumbs on the caliper housing.
 
It's not just old brake fluid, there can be a line of corrosion around the edge of the piston that is not wanting to go back into the caliper bore without a fight.

I have had enough problems with brakes in the past that I now take the piston out of the caliper on virutally every brake job that I do. 8-[
 
I've done a full brake system tear down on each of my bikes. The brown grunge does NOT flush out fully without pulling everything apart and replacing the line. If you have a clean system you can just push in the piston using a c-clamp or even your fingers - just make sure you have room in the master cylinder for the fluid you are pushing backwards.
 
okay.. got them in with the provided suggestions but they're tight... very little space between pads and rotor. Can that be adjusted?
 
corybsv said:
okay.. got them in with the provided suggestions but they're tight... very little space between pads and rotor. Can that be adjusted?
Click to expand...

With everything adjusted correctly, there will essentially be no space between the pads and the rotor. In fact, it is normal to hear a slight rubbing sound as you turn the wheel and the pads glide over the disc. There shouldn't be any pressure on the disc, but the pads will be grazing it as it turns.
 
If the caliper is clean internally, the piston will adjust itself when you use the brakes. If on the other hand there is gunk and sludge inside the caliper, the piston may not return properly when you release the brake - which can cause the brake to drag and/or even lock up the wheel. If you have any doubt about the system, tear down the caliper(s) and clean them out properly.
 
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