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Air Intake Repair

  • Thread starter Thread starter BassCliff
  • Start date Start date
B

BassCliff

Guest
Hello friends,

This is just another shameless plug for my little website. I documented my latest garage session and threw together this little guide:

Air Intake Repair
(Airbox removal, intake boots and O-ring replacement)

My thanks to all of you who gave me the knowledge and confidence to undertake this task. Mr. Steve is giving the document an editing/proofreading look, but I couldn't wait to post it. I know it overlaps some of Mr. bwringer's information, but his bike is too clean anyway. ;)

intake_repair49.jpg



I'll also be adding a very excellent write-up about installing the Dyna-S electronic ignition by Mr. POULSEN. Thank you, sir, for your contribution to the hive intelligence. :clap:


Thank you for your indulgence,


BassCliff
 
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Hey CLIFF that cam chain tensioner is a bit dirty. Shouldn't you have cleaned it while the carbs were off.

Well done CLIFF, we continually look forward to your new additions. I will certainly be using the electronic ignition upgrade at some time in the near future.
 
Hey CLIFF that cam chain tensioner is a bit dirty. Shouldn't you have cleaned it while the carbs were off.

I concur . The tappet cover gasket is a little unsightly as well . Should have been blue . :p
I like your work old mate . Doin' it properly is the way to go .
With your cable (zip) ties , I've found , through much experience , that if you cut the tails flush to the buckle with a stanley knife ( box cutter ) you won't get that little razor sharp tit . You wont get those horrid cuts when you go back in there in a couple of years . I then roll the tie around the wires so the buckle can't be seen . Beeooodiful .
Cheers , Simon . :clap:
 
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after installing the air box boots you don't have to seal the boots to the box with anything? You're just using the snug/tightness of the new rubber to create the seal?
 
after installing the air box boots you don't have to seal the boots to the box with anything? You're just using the snug/tightness of the new rubber to create the seal?

Correct. No sealer is needed.

However, on many models, the airbox/carb boots have expanding spring steel retaining rings inside.

On models that do not have these, you can get air leaks when the boots shrink with age and heat. The difference between old and new boots is pretty shocking sometimes.
 
However, on many models, the airbox/carb boots have expanding spring steel retaining rings inside.
Do you have any tips on how to re-install those blasted rings?

I put new boots on "Freebie" and chose to leave those rings off, as the boots seemed to be sealing well enough without them. Would still like to know how to do it.

.
 
Hi,

Thanks to everyone for looking and sharing your insights. I've just posted up the latest revision after Mr. Steve's suggestions. (Thanks for letting me borrow your eyes Steve!) And thanks again to Stig Poulsen for a copy of his electronic ignition installation guide. Despite English being his second language, it's an excellent tutorial.

Yeah, next time I'll clean up that cam chain tensioner. :o


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Do you have any tips on how to re-install those blasted rings?

I put new boots on "Freebie" and chose to leave those rings off, as the boots seemed to be sealing well enough without them. Would still like to know how to do it.

.


Hmmm, I wish I did. It has always taken me quite a bit of poking with a screwdriver and pulling with a hook tool to get those durn things back in their grooves. I put them in as far as I can with a large pair of pliers compressing them, and then poke, pull, and push them the rest of the way.

If you have a shaftie with a two-piece airbox, it might be easier to take the airbox halves apart. I haven't tried this, but it probably would be worth it in the end.
 
I had some good luck getting those rings in with needle-nose pliers. I got them started by closing them up and stuffing them in as far as possible by hand. Then I grabbed the deeper end with the needle-nose pliers and it pulled around the inside of the boot. The tension tends to pull the ring to a smaller diameter, releasing its grip on the boot. As the ring turned, I pulled it a little deeper in. IIRC, I helped the other end in with a screwdriver.

I'm thinking now that with two pair of needle-nose, you could compress it like a snap ring.
 
I'm thinking now that with two pair of needle-nose, you could compress it like a snap ring.
Well, I only used one pair of pliers, but I overlapped the ends of the ring and held them with the pliers and inserted it into the boot. That is where the fun started. Anything I did at that point would kick the boot out of place in the opening, so I just gave up and left the rings out.


If you have a shaftie with a two-piece airbox, it might be easier to take the airbox halves apart. I haven't tried this, but it probably would be worth it in the end.
It would be a neat trick, if only it would work.

I explored that possibility, but to get the two screws that hold the front corners, you have to reach through the hole, right where the boot is.
In other words, if the boots are in, you can't get to the screws to put the halves back together.

.
 
How do I go about getting an OEM Suzuki part number? I see BassCliff got his intake boots (carb to cyl.)
I took BassCliffs part number and entered it at "Indianapolis Suzuki" and it actually comes up. I would like to enter the part number for a GS1000, but how do I come up with the number?
Has anyone got a parts manual with numbers for a `78 GS1000C?
 
Hi,

Most of the online OEM parts dealers on the list in your "mega-welcome" have online parts fiches where you can look up part numbers for your bike. (Note: BikeBandit uses their own parts number scheme that does not match the Suzuki OEM part numbers.) The fiche at http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm is a good one to look up part numbers, but don't buy anything there. They have the most expensive prices I've seen.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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