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Air screw part of carb body? Removable?

  • Thread starter Thread starter fb9
  • Start date Start date
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fb9

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Hi guys, following the carb cleaning series and it almost appears on my carbs that there is no way to remove the air screw and parts as shown in the guide; like it us just part of the carb body.
There is sort of a seam, but it just seems like it is stuckto/part of the body.

I may have to get a pic to help explain unless you can tell me I am nuts and how to get the stuff out of there.

In the guide, it appears he is using a normal screwdriver to extract the parts.

82 GS850G


I was reading thru the post here but it didn't quite answer my question as to how the dialog went:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=100654
 
You need to drill out a cap that is put in over the idle mixture screw. You should see a tiny hole near the top of the carbs on the intake side. Drill there. Be very careful not to put the drill bit in too far and mark the end of the screw. About a half inch inch in. Remove the bit from the drill and pull out the cap.
 
1/4" is as far in as you should go or you will hit the needle. That could be bad.
 
Ahh.. thanks for the info. I think I understand.

So I' sure there are indeed all those parts hiding in there and that o-ring is officially destroyed after I already chem-dipped it :)

No worries. Thanks, off to work on it!
 
fb9 said:
Ahh.. thanks for the info. I think I understand.

So I' sure there are indeed all those parts hiding in there and that o-ring is officially destroyed after I already chem-dipped it :)

No worries. Thanks, off to work on it!
Click to expand...

Yes, since you've dipped, you've destroyed the small, rubber O-ring near the bottom of the mixture screw. The whole set-up consists of, in order from the top, the screw, a spring, a flat washer (not sure if it's plastic or metal), and the O-ring. The dip chemical will devour anything non-metallic.

Brad bt
 
Yep, that dipped one was pretty much destroyed.
The ring was partly there, but was super brittle.
I'm sure it was worth replacing the o-ring anyways.

Took out those parts and re-dipped to err on the side of clean.
Did another full carb and only got 1/2 thru the 3rd. Going to save the 4th until new jets arrive so I have a model to work by in case I get confused.

I see in the carb rebuild kits they have replacement plugs for what was drilled out. Do those just tap into place, or is there some required adhesive or recommendation?

Thanks for the help on this!

This is my first bike and am very new to all these things -- this site is great.
I've had my 850 for a few years -- put 40 miles on it and then knew I had to do this work. It's sat for a long time in storage due to a few logistic problems with having a place to work on it.

Just got the bike moved into the new garage and I'm getting dirty again!
 
Just leave those new plugs out. You just spent the time getting the old ones out, so why block them up again. That way you can easily adjust them now. There are no emissions police that are gonna make you put that back in there on a 25 yr old bike.
 
Well this was going good until I got to one where the air screw top was stripped out after I uncovered it.

It appears someone has been in at it before and did a bad job of installing the part back in.

I fussed with it and just couldn't get it out, so I started getting stupid and started to try to drill into it and get it out somehow that way... :shock:

Needless to say, that isn't going well. I'm starting to mess up the threads inside the hole and the part is still stuck with little metal left to do anything with.
I'm afraid I may be in big trouble now.

Any ideas/places to buy come to mind?

:oops:
 
See if a machine shop can get it out. If you broke the carb body there are a million BS32SS carbs out there to replace the broken one. Check Ebay or post it in the parts wanted section.
 
If it makes you feel any better I just had the same problem. It started when I removed most of the slot when drilling out the plug, then to complicate matters, the screw was essentially welded into the seat - wasn't moving no how, no way. I should've stopped messing with it right there but noooo... I kept at it, finally giving up when there wasn't even a glimmer of a slot left. :cry:

Of course this was the LAST mixture screw I was liberating from hibernation.

Luckily I have acess to a machine shop where i work & the machinists there love a challenge. After exhausting the ez-out routine (too stuck), they finally machined off the head to a diameter just touching the alum threads, thus leaving a shell of the screw head in the very fine threads. We picked out the shell (no easy task removing steel from alum), leaving just the unthreaded tapered pin stuck in the seat.

From the backside (up through the intake bore) we pushed a small deltronic pin up through the small hole, pushing against the screw's "point" until it came out.

I must say that the condition of the alum threads in the carb body at this point was pretty bad, mainly where we picked out the "screw head shell" . However, the threads down deep where the adjustment happens looked intact. I was planning to chase the threads with a tap to facilitate re-entry of a new screw, but we didn't have that particular thread. In addition, the seat was a tad gouged but I fixed that by hand, using a q-tip & polishing compound & spinning the "compound embedded" q-tip against the seat until the gouge was practiaclly gone. [-o<

I resigned myself to "re-tapping" the hole using the new mixture screw but was COMPLETELY AMAZED that it threaded straight in the first time - no backing in & out to cut threads!! I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't do it myself !! :-D

For reference, my threads are M6-.50, a very fine non-standard thread, and i imagine yours are too.

So anyway, don't depair - a competent machinist can remove the screw and get you moving again.
 
I use a left twist drill bit when I need to drill the stuck needle.
 
Perhaps I was too hasty with some of it, but either way Idid a lot and failed big time. :)

I found a set of carbs on eBay that I'm going to use and can figure out what to do with the left overs later -- I'm sure someone else might screw something up and will need just one as well.

Thanks for the info on that and congrats on the recovery work!
 
Drill out cap - howto

Drill out cap - howto

I have a question. Probably a stupid one, but what does it mean to drill out the cap of the air screw. Is it just getting the drill bit to catch on the cap and spin it out? I guess I could use some more explanation. Thanks
 
mbopp said:
I have a question. Probably a stupid one, but what does it mean to drill out the cap of the air screw. Is it just getting the drill bit to catch on the cap and spin it out? I guess I could use some more explanation. Thanks
Click to expand...
I drill a hole just big enough to get a wood screw in it. Screw it in and yank it out. Be careful while drilling and pull the drill back as soon as you break through or you could bugger the screw head.
It really isn't hard at all.
 
Thanks

Thanks

Thanks, that's easy. Just wanted to make sure I knew what I was doing before having at it.
 
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