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Airbox/Carb disassembly w/pics... Advice?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gssheller
  • Start date Start date
The oil in your air box is probably from your breather hose, coming off the valve cover.
For a temporary fix, I disconnected the hose and added a extension hose coming from the valve cover and ran it out so it came out below the engine, then plugged the hole on the air box.
 
The oil issue in the airbox.. The breather tube should be hooked to the nipple at the top middle of the box. That tube sucks un burnt gas vapor that may get past the valves out of the engine , and as mentioned a while back( in a different post) the bit of oil it sucks helps to lubricate the carb slides. I suggest that if theres a lot .. and by a lot i mean like maybe a teaspoon full... i would go up stream to the breather cover on top of the cam cover. Inside that cover there are recesses for a wire mesh to be packed in there. The wire mesh easily lets air pass thru but tends to trap the heavier oil and then the oil drips down back into the engine. Now if the mesh is gone there isnt anything to keep the airbox from sucking a lot of oil right down the tube and into the airbox. Take alook and see if the mesh is in BOTH sides and that the gasket also is in good shape..I have seen the gaskets soaked thru with oil and still in tact but otherwise useless.. it was engineered that way for a reason is what i always say. dont take shortcuts if you want it done right.
 
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Gssheller said:
Ok. I was worried that the filter was perhaps OVER oiled as the bottom of the airbox is covered in oil.

Also, did you happen to look at the picture where I asked about the weather stripping? Anxious to get a response as to whether or not its missing. Thanks a TON!
Click to expand...
The missing weather stripping could be the culprit in the flat spot
 
Thanks for all the advice/help. I should have the o-rings in the mail early next week and reassembly begins. Weather strip already in hand. New stainless steel 6mm allen wrench screws in hand. (i read plenty about folks having to use a dremel to cut out a screwdriver notch in the boot screws. I got lucky because the screwdriver that comes in the under seat tool kit fits perfectly.):clap:
Now just waiting...
Nicest weather of the year today and bikes in pieces...
 
At least you got your tool kit...lol.

I got nothing.

I was lucky enough to be able to justify the hundred dollar screwdriver set that just so happened to have the right bit...lmao!
 
I would also suggest you get a decent quality ( like craftsman ) impact driver. Get one that has the screw driver head removeable. Mine you can take the screwdriver head off and you got a 3/8 drive impct that you can put sockets on as well..very very handy option too!! By screwdriver head i mean the collar that you put the variuos bits in..you know what i mean.
 
chuck hahn said:
I would also suggest you get a decent quality ( like craftsman ) impact driver. Get one that has the screw driver head removeable. Mine you can take the screwdriver head off and you got a 3/8 drive impct that you can put sockets on as well..very very handy option too!! By screwdriver head i mean the collar that you put the variuos bits in..you know what i mean.
Click to expand...

I have the exact tool you speak of and have gotten plenty of use out of it. Just not on this bike...yet.
 
Nobody has mentioned the carb slides, but their proper operation is crucial for normal throttle response. If you have a stiff slide or leaking diaphragm, you would experience problems similar to what you describe. The movement of air through the venturi is directed to the slide diaphragm which then opens the slide. If the slide hesitates, the effect is a lack of power/response at lower rpm.
 
chuck hahn said:
Just not on the bike..yet. You will!!
Click to expand...

I going to chose to live under the illusion that I bought a bike that has been perfectly maintained... Until proven otherwise.
Kidding, I'm doing every ounce of preventive maintenance recommended!
 
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1980GS1000E said:
Nobody has mentioned the carb slides, but their proper operation is crucial for normal throttle response. If you have a stiff slide or leaking diaphragm, you would experience problems similar to what you describe. The movement of air through the venturi is directed to the slide diaphragm which then opens the slide. If the slide hesitates, the effect is a lack of power/response at lower rpm.
Click to expand...

Something else to look at... Thanks!
 
Hold a flashlight against the diaprams in a darkroom and look them over real well for pin holes.. and be sure they are seated properly in the tops of the carbs and dont get crinkled or pinched up when you put the covers back on..want them nice and flat around the edges..
 
Nice bike. I have a black and gold 1000G in Tillamook. Your throttle response issues are normal for a bike that has been sitting and are related to the air box air leaks, boot air leaks, and pilot circuit gummyness. Once you address these things, there may be some residual leanness from the K&N and the missing snorkle on the back of the airbox. It is my experience that the snorkle is needed for the stock jetting to work right.

I would get all the carb cleaning done and the sealing and O rings done, and valves adjusted before moving away from stock jetting though. Stock jetting works great if the other stuff is good.

What did you have to give for that thing of beauty / work of art?

Goodness gracious, are you putting the carbs on top of the tank for photos? It looks like a nice clean tank.

Be sure to download the parts book from Cliff's site, and the GS850G factory manual. The parts book is often more handy than a manual to see what is suposed to be there.
 
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850 Combat said:
Nice bike. I have a black and gold 1000G in Tillamook. Your throttle response issues are normal for a bike that has been sitting and are related to the air box air leaks, boot air leaks, and pilot circuit gummyness. Once you address these things, there may be some residual leanness from the K&N and the missing snorkle on the back of the airbox. It is my experience that the snorkle is needed for the stock jetting to work right.

I would get all the carb cleaning done and the sealing and O rings done, and valves adjusted before moving away from stock jetting though. Stock jetting works great if the other stuff is good.

What did you have to give for that thing of beauty / work of art?

Goodness gracious, are you putting the carbs on top of the tank for photos? It looks like a nice clean tank.

Be sure to download the parts book from Cliff's site, and the GS850G factory manual. The parts book is often more handy than a manual to see what is suposed to be there.
Click to expand...

Great to see another Oregon bike!
No, I didn't take the pictures on the tank. They were on the hood of my Jeep. Its a trail rig, so if a couple scratches happen, they well never be noticed!
Yes, the tank is nice and clean! I've almost got the water marks polished out.
I am going to keep this bike stock, so no crazy jets here. Now just gotta find the snorkel!
You have quite a collection. Perhaps a ride to Tilly town some time to check it out?
 
Gssheller said:
Great to see another Oregon bike!
No, I didn't take the pictures on the tank. They were on the hood of my Jeep. Its a trail rig, so if a couple scratches happen, they well never be noticed!
Yes, the tank is nice and clean! I've almost got the water marks polished out.
I am going to keep this bike stock, so no crazy jets here. Now just gotta find the snorkel!
You have quite a collection. Perhaps a ride to Tilly town some time to check it out?
Click to expand...

Why not?

Lots of good riding in the area. I'm out of town for at least a couple more weeks.
 
In an effort to try to solve one problem with one solution, I sealed the air box using auto grade weather stripping. (sorry Lowes, felt better about auto grade) and the air intake boot o-rings, and took the bike for a ride between rain bursts.
This is a completely different bike now. All sorts of power. The difference is amazing!
Ive got to admit that the air box sealing is very counter intuitive. Ive spent the last 25 years trying to get MORE air, not restricting it. It sure goes to show these bikes are all about balance!
Not wanting to wait until there is a problem, the carbs, electrical, and brakes/wheels are next.
Happy to have this one handled. Thanks again!
I'll get a couple pictures once I get them off my phone.
 
It is counter intuitive.

I think the deal is that the air that emulsifies the pilot jet fuel moves in from an air jet inside of the airbox. Without a vacuum in the air box, more air would move through the passage and lean out the pilot circuit, I guess.

There is a good section on these carbs in the Suzuki GS850 manual on Cliff's site.

I'm glad you have it working well.

Where did you get the weather stripping? I have used the hardware stuff with success, but have a conceren about how long it will last.

Also, is that the bike that was for sale in Craig's List?
 
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