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Airbox Top ???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Texassdave
  • Start date Start date
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Texassdave

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SO the 79 GS550 I just picked up seems to be missing the top to the airbox. Of course it's running Like s#it right now..... I have a new filter on the way but I'm looking for suggestions for a new top without having to spend 110.00 on an entire new airbox assemble. Can I just cut sheetmetal to fit and use some weatherstripping to seal it off or does it need have a certain amount of clearance to work properly? Has anyone run into this? I searched the archives before I posted but didn't find anything usefull

Thanks!
 
Texassdave said:
SO the 79 GS550 I just picked up seems to be missing the top to the airbox. Of course it's running Like s#it right now..... I have a new filter on the way but I'm looking for suggestions for a new top without having to spend 110.00 on an entire new airbox assemble. Can I just cut sheetmetal to fit and use some weatherstripping to seal it off or does it need have a certain amount of clearance to work properly? Has anyone run into this? I searched the archives before I posted but didn't find anything usefull

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Leaving the airbox lid off is a common modification for more airflow. I can't speak for your particular model, but it was found on the '80 GS1100ET that removing the airbox lid was the simplest way to more horsepower, at no cost. My airbox lid has been purposely left off for the past 26 years, and it runs great without it.

I doubt that your bike running badly has anything do do with the airbox lid. At least one member is running his bike with the air filter only and no (rear) airbox. If you want to prove this, after installing the new filter cover the airbox with something temporarily and see if you notice any difference covered or uncovered.
 
Thanks for the replies.. I think I'll try closing it off to see if it makes any difference... I Should have done that to begin with :)

I guess I missed something with all of the posts I read regarding the airbox needing to be intact for the carbs to function correctly... I'm dealing with stock (as far as I was told) carbs with the stock exhaust. and I'm missing on #3 with a good spark. I thought that might be the culprit and the genius that I am I came and posted before I tried to close the airbox off.... Anyway, THanks and I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
Texassdave said:
Thanks for the replies.. I think I'll try closing it off to see if it makes any difference... I Should have done that to begin with :)

I guess I missed something with all of the posts I read regarding the airbox needing to be intact for the carbs to function correctly... I'm dealing with stock (as far as I was told) carbs with the stock exhaust. and I'm missing on #3 with a good spark. I thought that might be the culprit and the genius that I am I came and posted before I tried to close the airbox off.... Anyway, THanks and I'll let you know how it turns out.
Click to expand...

The front airbox is sensitive to air leaks which go directly into the engine and cause lean running. The rear airbox is already open on the bottom to provide air for the filter, which regulates the airflow. A lot of posts concern removing the front airbox to install individual pod air filters on each carb. This throws the air/fuel mixture out of whack and the bike won't run worth a damn after this until the carbs are adjusted and rejetted. The rear airbox containing the OEM air filter is not so critical to proper running with a stock setup.
 
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It isn't critical to have a lid on your airbox; as others have suggested there is a real performance gain to be had when you remove the lid. In fact, I can't remember the time I last saw an airbox cover 'in the wild'!

I have used a sheet of aluminium for my airbox cover, and then went and cut some slotted 'gills' in the top to improve airflow, as I still wanted some weather protection.

I'm not sure if it works any better, but I think it looks kind of nifty with the slotted gills. :cool:
 
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