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Airbox versus Pods

49er

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I guess this subject rates up there alongside religion, politics and OILS.
I have dabbled in experiments on race and rally engines in the past, by running airboxes, with and without ram tubes(velocity stacks) and also using pod filters. On all these occasions, the racing airflow was doninantly travelling at right angles to the carb inlets. Air eddies and disturbed areas were not so evident as can be the case with a motorcycle carb setup, where the natural airflow is travelling in the opposite direction to the carb inlets. I achieved the best results when the tuned length allowed for a velocity stack to be attached to the carb's inlet surrounded by a generously sized airbox. The inlet to the airbox was paper or foam filtered and ducted cold air from the front or the car.
I have read many members opinions on the merits of both airbox and pod systems. The argument for pods goes, they should be used when running a big bore kit and after changing the exhaust to a 4-1 system. Of course, they are proven to flow more air than an airbox!!
Proponents of retaining the airbox including myself, will tell you that our bikes maintain a relatively smooth power curve when the manufacturer's tuning parameters aren't tampered with too severely.
I haven't experimented with pods on my 850, but I have read the various past threads on this forum depicting the many jetting woes that members have experienced. The current thinking is don't experiment, use a tried and proven carb kit that matches the changes you have done to your motor. That makes sense. From what I have read here and experienced myself on auto engines, the pods have performance limitations at the lower to midrange of the rpm range. There is usually a flat spot which is fixed by richening up on jets. This problem is probably not so pronounced on a CV carb setup which I gather most of our bikes use anyway.
I have gleaned some feedback on this issue from other forums of various motorcycle owners who run either carb or EFI induction systems.
There is no conclusive evidence that Pods improve an engines output anywhere in the power curve except in some cases, the very top end. Quite often, they actually reduced performance.
They are drawing in warm/hot air and worse still, in many cases, the airflow around #2&3 carbs becomes very turbulant as the road speed increases, causing a slowing of the intake velocity on the middle cylinders. You can patch this up by jetting but you are still missing out on performance, not to mention the power imbalance occuring internally.
I could find no occassions where owners had dyno tuned both airbox and pods on their motor and then did some timed runs on twisty hilly roads to compare the driveability/tractabilty characteristics of each setup.
Sure there were many dyno tests done, but that doesn't replicate the road conditions. Also, it is easy to misrepresent dyno results to the novice.
The interesting thing about the mix of pods and modern EFI systems was that the mapping sustems automatically adjusted to compensate for disturbed airflow and actually reduced the motors output accordingly in that part of the power curve.
Besides the turbulance issue with pods, I believe that there is a great benifit to retaining the rubber velocity stacks on the inlet to each carb.
I haven't dissected any motorcycle pods, but their profile doesn't seem to allow room for a bell shaped stack inside the filter. In fact many are short and tappered in the opposite direction.
I plan to experiment with increasing the airbox size and/or controlling the rate and velocity of the incoming air. Also, the shape and length of the velocity stackes. I believe that I can further increase the torque in the lower to mid power range by lengthening the stacks without loosing out in the top end.
It was surprising to read how many owners thought that pods looked better and were easier to clean, so be it, at the expence of performance.
Finally, VM26SS carbs were fitted to the 750,850 and 1000 motors in various states of tune. This demonstrates to me just how good the airflow characteristics of these carbs really is, and was a deciding factor in my decision to increase my motor's capacity to 900cc, while retaining the original induction setup.
The ultimate would appear to be EFI with a well designed and inducted cold airbox.
I would like to here from any members who have results from any controlled tests on airbox vs Pods against a given engine tuning specification.
Cheers
Ian
 
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Pods vs. Airbox

Airbox... unless it ****es you off. And you aren't super concerned about performance. In which case pods will ease your pain, and teach you a whole lot about jetting in the process.

From spending long days thinking about this, I agree that the best design would be a well tuned velocity stack. since for street use, one would want filters, then a long pod with an adjustable length stack would in fact be a very good product. I'd like to see this some day. maybe even (gasp) RPM -based-variable-length-stacks, like some modern bikes are coming out with.

Now your nice, simple GS1000 motor looks like it's on life support, worse than a early '80's GM carburetor.
 
air flow

air flow

This is my setup. Standard airbox up front with the standard rubber 'velocity" stacks inside with a large K&N filter clamped on the rear. Seams to work well for me and all is hidden from view.

3e5c.jpg
 
Gs 1000

Gs 1000

That's kind of the idea with the airbox and filterbox on the 8-valve Gs 1000s. I'm in the process of working on a GS 1000 i just got; it has pods now, as well as a 4-into-1, but the PO never got the jetting right (runs VERY rich), but DID install a DynoJet Stage 3 kit. I'm trying to decide whether to try carb tuning with the K&Ns or go back to a stock airbox, maybe with a K&N replacement filter in the filterbox. I still haven't decided; I like to sport-tour, and the stock setup probably is more consistent in dealing with changes in temperature, humidity, rain, etc. I think this needs more thought.
 
What are the fuel lines and that round thing???

What are the fuel lines and that round thing???

This is my setup. Standard airbox up front with the standard rubber 'velocity" stacks inside with a large K&N filter clamped on the rear. Seams to work well for me and all is hidden from view.

3e5c.jpg

You got fuel injection?
 
I would like to here from any members who have results from any controlled tests on airbox vs Pods against a given engine tuning specification.
Cheers
Ian

Hi Ian, While I cannot offer any type of controlled test and it's possible that my response is irrelevant due to other circumstances, I will say that this past year I had three bikes. Two had pod filters and one a standard air box. The standard air box bike seems to do everything better than the pod bikes. I'm currently "modifying" my 700 back to stock :-s .
 
I always liked the airbox but with a much bigger air inlet....

I always liked the airbox but with a much bigger air inlet....

That with a nice pipe goes pretty good. Just get it jetted right.
 
In my circle there are four GS owners. Two 1000s and two 750s. One of each has an airbox and set of pods. The merits of the two systems have been discussed quite a bit. I have an airbox on my 750, and am quite happy with the way it performed for the short time I got to ride it last year. I will also admit that I really like the look of the pods.

Now, I want my bike to look as 'cool' as it can, but I also appreciate a reliable solid performing bike. I know the two guys with the pods have had to play with their carb setups quite a bit, and still they have some problems in different ranges. I think they have decided that the way the pods look outweighs the performance cons, which is completely their right to do (as I said, it is a solid look). I just don't know if I would want to deal with the added hassle of constantly tweaking the carbs. There are enough other little projects that I can spend time chasing around my bike. But you never know, maybe in a year or two, when I have everything else ironed out (God willing), I might want to take it on.

You know what else I think looks cool though?

Riding out in front.
 
Please clarify;
"a much bigger air inlet"
Does that mean removing or modifying the filter box cover (A), the filter box (B), the filterbox orifice (C), or the air intakes or airbox itself (D)?


BikebanditaircleanerQ.gif


Very interested in peoples experiments outcomes and findings - learn from the other guy I always say. (Well, sometimes.)
 
What happens when you put pods on? You have to jet richer. That should be all the information you need to know they are better.

If more fuel is required you are sucking more air. More air = gooder.

If you lose performance they ain't jetted right.

Of course, all this applies only to our old beasts. Once engineers figured out how to make tuned airboxes there's no reason to remove them.
 
On this type I would replace part number 9 with a K&N of the right type...

On this type I would replace part number 9 with a K&N of the right type...

Please clarify;
"a much bigger air inlet"
Does that mean removing or modifying the filter box cover (A), the filter box (B), the filterbox orifice (C), or the air intakes or airbox itself (D)?


BikebanditaircleanerQ.gif


Very interested in peoples experiments outcomes and findings - learn from the other guy I always say. (Well, sometimes.)

http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic~dept_id~1026201.asp

On this one I would remove the rubber snorkel, which you can't see in this picture. That leaves a 2"x6" hole for air to come in....

http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic~dept_id~1023172.asp

on this one I would just pop the lid off the box...

And get the jetting right to realize any advantages, bigger main jet for starters.
 
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Stock carbs are best left with the air box. The different metering circuits (there are several, not just the mains) in the stock carbs are set to work with the air box and are often not easy to tune. If you go with pods, it is best to go with aftermarket carbs like Mikunis which are designed to be fairly easy to tune the different circuits. My opinion.

Hap
 
What happens when you put pods on? You have to jet richer. That should be all the information you need to know they are better.

If more fuel is required you are sucking more air. More air = gooder.

If you lose performance they ain't jetted right.

Of course, all this applies only to our old beasts. Once engineers figured out how to make tuned airboxes there's no reason to remove them.

Commodus

You're confusing gooder with betterer. More air = gooder. Greater air velocity = Betterer.

Our old air boxes were designed pretty well actually. In my opinion, they can only be improved with minor mods. They encourage great air velocity and utilise engine and intake harmonics/sound waves to good effect.
And with the right carbs, well that's another story.
 
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ScottMc1100L and Beergood

Thanks for the feedback guys.
I admit to liking the appearance of pods on a mint GS. But that hasn't swayed me to do likewise. The lines of the standard setup are also appealing giving the bike a compact look.
Personally, the balance of performance and tractability is all important on a road bike.
 
TKent02, K&N makes a direct replacement GS 1000 filter

TKent02, K&N makes a direct replacement GS 1000 filter

It fits in the filter box in place of the stock filter. A lot of people run with the stock stuff, but with the lid off or modified to give more open area. The first setup you linked to is the GS 750 filterbox and airbox, in which the filter has much less free-flowing area than the GS 1000 filter. I'm trying to decide whether to go back to the stock intake, or try tuning with pods.
 
Speaking of pods, anyone know a good place online to buy a set of K&N pods for our GS's?

What size and type of carbs came stock on an 80 GS1000E?
 
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I forgot to mention I have the K&N filters inside my opened up airboxes...

I forgot to mention I have the K&N filters inside my opened up airboxes...

It fits in the filter box in place of the stock filter. A lot of people run with the stock stuff, but with the lid off or modified to give more open area. The first setup you linked to is the GS 750 filterbox and airbox, in which the filter has much less free-flowing area than the GS 1000 filter. I'm trying to decide whether to go back to the stock intake, or try tuning with pods.

That is the first thing to do.
but with the box opened up and the K7N filter it goes lean at full throttle, so jets are next.
 
Commodus

You're confusing gooder with betterer. More air = gooder. Greater air velocity = Betterer.
quote]

Hahahahaha! This is my favourite line ever. You sir are a comic genius.

I disagree with you about these GS airboxes though. To the dyno!!

Oh wait, I don't own a GS with a stock frame anymore...

hmm...well there is one for sale next door for a really great price. I will buy it and conduct the necessary experiments.
 
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