While cleaning my bike today, I noticed this chip off the inside/front of the rotor. Any ideas as to what could have caused it and if it will be a problem for me? Should I start looking for a new rotor?
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
Alternator Rotor Chip
- Thread starter cowboyup3371
- Start date
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
No idea for sure what may have caused it except perhaps (and I've done this a couple of times) if that retainer that holds back the wires leading to the stator isn't situated just so I've had it rub on the rotor. Usually it makes a pretty good racket that would warn you to figure out what's causing it. I don't know that it would cause such a chip though.
Those mags are pretty fragile. I've made the mistake of smacking the rotor when trying to remove it with even a rubber mallet and they've shattered. Fortunately i had another rotor on hand. Look closely to see if the chip has caused any further fractures in the mag...if not maybe you're ok. If so I'd look for another rotor. The last thing you want is that shattering and pieces of that floating around in your engine, sticking to things made of steel like your crank etc.
Those mags are pretty fragile. I've made the mistake of smacking the rotor when trying to remove it with even a rubber mallet and they've shattered. Fortunately i had another rotor on hand. Look closely to see if the chip has caused any further fractures in the mag...if not maybe you're ok. If so I'd look for another rotor. The last thing you want is that shattering and pieces of that floating around in your engine, sticking to things made of steel like your crank etc.
Thanks. I'll look tomorrow.
J
JEEPRUSTY
Guest
Unless you know the chip was popped off in a trauma then button the thing up and drive.
It may be nothing more that a simple break caused by heat cycling.
It may be nothing more that a simple break caused by heat cycling.
Thanks Jeep.
I went back outside to feed Lou and grabbed the flashlight to look at the rotor. Although I was unable to take pictures, I saw there are some gouges on the inside of the rotor where I think the stator would sit. I don't remember if that was there from before but I guess it's possible it could have scraped on something. I'll try to post a picture of it tomorrow.
I went back outside to feed Lou and grabbed the flashlight to look at the rotor. Although I was unable to take pictures, I saw there are some gouges on the inside of the rotor where I think the stator would sit. I don't remember if that was there from before but I guess it's possible it could have scraped on something. I'll try to post a picture of it tomorrow.
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
No offense to you Jeep but I would be very hesitant to just "button it up". I know from first hand experience how fragile those things actually are, and generally they don't chip, rather than split, shatter or "spiderweb" like glass.
Kind of like hitting cast iron with a hammer. It seems real solid and strong untill you smack it and it shatters like glass.
My bigger concern would be bits, especially smaller and even tiny ones, making thier way through the engine some how. It may be a pretty remote chance honestly as from what I've been able to discern looking at the pathways of oil flow, for the bits to end up somewhere really bad, as they'd likely get trapped in the sump screen, or simply attach themselves to the outside of the rotor and whatever other steel elements they'd run across prior, but why take that chance if you've already got it open?
That's all I'm saying.
Is it your suggestion then to go ahead and replace it or should I wait and see? The gouges are 90 degrees away from where that chip sets. What should I consider to make up my mind as I already found a couple on eBay for under $60. I can do that on Friday instead of buying my heated gloves and would rather knock it out now instead of tearing everything back down later.
I'm also worried about any actions I took to cause this. I know i screwed everything back in properly the last time and I don't remember noticeable rattling from there; just from the pipe area. But I have a bad history of screwing things up even when I'm sure I did it right. So I'm getting a little paranoid I think.
I'm also worried about any actions I took to cause this. I know i screwed everything back in properly the last time and I don't remember noticeable rattling from there; just from the pipe area. But I have a bad history of screwing things up even when I'm sure I did it right. So I'm getting a little paranoid I think.
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
Well I have no idea if anything you did would have/did cause it. You've been in there before I take it, but do remember seeing it chipped before?
Were it me, as paranoid as *I* can be, and if you ask some of the other members that have been around me long enough they'll tell you that I can be quite when it comes to my motorcycles, I'd replace it just to ease my mind.
However, if you've never removed a rotor before, I'd do some searching and reading, as they don't just come off by removing that bolt or nut. You might even see if Tom Kent or someone near you has the correct rotor puller you could borrow to make the job easier.
N
Normk
Guest
If you don't see that magnetic piece adhering to anything in the immediate area, it is most likely an old injury from when someone was in there and dropped the rotor or struck with a tool.
Don't bother about it as have seen lots of examples over the years. The amount of material lost is insignificant and if there are no signs of other cracking, leave it alone. That magnetic material is quite brittle and chips readliy. It's not going to make its way as far as the pump screen in even the most remote possiblity.
If there are signs of gouging it is likely that something else was left in there, dropped into that space and chipped the end of that magnet. Just look for loose objects and ride.
Don't bother about it as have seen lots of examples over the years. The amount of material lost is insignificant and if there are no signs of other cracking, leave it alone. That magnetic material is quite brittle and chips readliy. It's not going to make its way as far as the pump screen in even the most remote possiblity.
If there are signs of gouging it is likely that something else was left in there, dropped into that space and chipped the end of that magnet. Just look for loose objects and ride.
Okay, as I said last night I felt some additional gouging on the inside about 90 degrees from the chip. Here's what I found today:
That chip was also sitting on the inside of the rotor along the wall below where it came off.
Am I understanding how this rotor works properly - the stator sits fully inside the rotor. Rotor spins around the stator and the electrical charge produced from the magnet is then pushed back through the wiring to the R/R? If that's the case I could understand how the chip got there based on the fact one of the brackets holding the wiring seemed loose although I remember loctiting it down. But how would those gouges be able to get in there unless maybe they are from previous owners and I don't remember seeing it from before.
What kind of rotor puller would I use? Is it one of the standard automobile ones you find at Oreillys? Is it the 2 or 3 prong kind? Or is there a specific motorcycle one?
I'm really hoping this doesn't keep me down too long as I need to get this back to being my daily driver quick
That chip was also sitting on the inside of the rotor along the wall below where it came off.
Am I understanding how this rotor works properly - the stator sits fully inside the rotor. Rotor spins around the stator and the electrical charge produced from the magnet is then pushed back through the wiring to the R/R? If that's the case I could understand how the chip got there based on the fact one of the brackets holding the wiring seemed loose although I remember loctiting it down. But how would those gouges be able to get in there unless maybe they are from previous owners and I don't remember seeing it from before.
What kind of rotor puller would I use? Is it one of the standard automobile ones you find at Oreillys? Is it the 2 or 3 prong kind? Or is there a specific motorcycle one?
I'm really hoping this doesn't keep me down too long as I need to get this back to being my daily driver quick
As long as there aren't any fractures in the magnetic material I'd be inclined to let it go. Maybe degrease the chip area and spoon on a little JB Weld to seal it over? You don't want the material to mound up, just cover the raw area.
At the same time, I'd keep my radar up for a cheap rotor. Should cost more than $25 + shipping.
BTW, to remove the rotor you need a long bolt. The swingarm pivot bolt thread size is the proper size for the larger GS bikes but I'm not sure about a 550.
At the same time, I'd keep my radar up for a cheap rotor. Should cost more than $25 + shipping.
BTW, to remove the rotor you need a long bolt. The swingarm pivot bolt thread size is the proper size for the larger GS bikes but I'm not sure about a 550.
Last edited:
M
Motocrossx23
Guest
Won't this affect the balance of rotation while in motion?
Would I be out of line if I dropped the oil pan and made sure I didn't have any fragments in there from those chips?
Reading over the clymer's (I'll look through the service manual shortly), I see I need some red loctite for the bolt. Is there anything else I need to remove that rotor?
Reading over the clymer's (I'll look through the service manual shortly), I see I need some red loctite for the bolt. Is there anything else I need to remove that rotor?
Me. I'd get another rotor. The magnets are cast into the rotor and you might not see hairline cracks waiting for you at 10k rpm. The magnets will grab anything they can and further unpleasantness might be headed your way. I'll guess you can ebay one under $25- though if you're in a hurry who knows?
M
Matchless
Guest
The starter clutch parts have a habit of flying out and getting pulled into that area by the magnets. Your stator may also show some damage.
M
mike_of_bbg
Guest
This was also true for my 550L (the swing arm bolt is the right size/pitch), but the threads are not deep enough to reach the end of the crank. None of the hardware stores near me carried bolts that large (M16 I think).
I saw suggestions to use nuts or a large ball bearing atop the crank threads, but the nut I tried to use got stuck instead
Fortunately I was replacing the crank, not the rotor. One suggestion I saw later but did not try was to pack the void in grease, then use the swing arm bolt to pressurize and pop it out. If that doesn't work I'd suggest using a threaded rod or allen bolt of the appropriate size against the bottom of the inner crank threads, and wrap it in tape so it stays centered and does not damage the threads. IIRC it took a lot of torque and maybe a few hammer smacks to get it off.
I saw suggestions to use nuts or a large ball bearing atop the crank threads, but the nut I tried to use got stuck instead
Fortunately I was replacing the crank, not the rotor. One suggestion I saw later but did not try was to pack the void in grease, then use the swing arm bolt to pressurize and pop it out. If that doesn't work I'd suggest using a threaded rod or allen bolt of the appropriate size against the bottom of the inner crank threads, and wrap it in tape so it stays centered and does not damage the threads. IIRC it took a lot of torque and maybe a few hammer smacks to get it off.
Thanks guys. From what I can tell, the stator looks okay so far; or at least no obvious damage but I'll look some more.
I'll probably try to find the correct tool to use as I have a nasty habit of screwing things up when I don't.
I also wanted to add that Gmansyz was very helpful in offering up his rotor but I decided to get one from Ebay for $25 and free shipping. I appreciate his willingness to step up and I hope someone else will find use for it.
I also have a line on a tool for a 1000 that I'll see if it works for my 550. If not, I'll start looking for one as I'd rather not kill the bike in the process of changing it.
I'll probably try to find the correct tool to use as I have a nasty habit of screwing things up when I don't.
I also wanted to add that Gmansyz was very helpful in offering up his rotor but I decided to get one from Ebay for $25 and free shipping. I appreciate his willingness to step up and I hope someone else will find use for it.
I also have a line on a tool for a 1000 that I'll see if it works for my 550. If not, I'll start looking for one as I'd rather not kill the bike in the process of changing it.
Last edited:
M
mike_of_bbg
Guest
Well, the "proper" (non-Suzuki) tool is only $9:
http://www.z1enterprises.com/Flywhe...ternal-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-2176.aspx
But any M16x1.5 bolt with enough thread should do the job, if you can find one.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/Flywhe...ternal-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-2176.aspx
But any M16x1.5 bolt with enough thread should do the job, if you can find one.
Thanks Mike. I'll give that a shot
After installing my chain today, I asked Helena back outside to help hold the rear wheel while I took off the bolt from the alternator rotor. I figured out too late that I needed to hold the right side of the crankshaft while I unscrewed the bolt on the left (Thanks for the advice Tkent02). However, when I went to try using the flywheel removal tool that SRSupertrapp lent me (and another I bought from the local shop) I realized they were way too big.
So, I went searching this evening on the part number and found the 16mm MotionPro and Bikemaster advertise for the 550 isn't right, I need a 14mm tool. Alpha Sports has one for $23. I'd like to try using the swingarm idea first (I really don't want to tear it apart again though), but I don't understand what people mean by sticking a bearing into that hole. Does anyone have pictures of something they use?
Also, does anyone have a 14mm removal tool I could borrow?
So, I went searching this evening on the part number and found the 16mm MotionPro and Bikemaster advertise for the 550 isn't right, I need a 14mm tool. Alpha Sports has one for $23. I'd like to try using the swingarm idea first (I really don't want to tear it apart again though), but I don't understand what people mean by sticking a bearing into that hole. Does anyone have pictures of something they use?
Also, does anyone have a 14mm removal tool I could borrow?
