Always expect the worst, never disappointed?

[maicojoe]

Just a FYI post.... was installing a new voltage regulator/rectifier on my low mile 1982, and what I thought was unmolested, GS1100e. Just wanted to get a leg up on the electrical system, as I know it's not an if or maybe on the charging system going bad, it just will. Ordered up a series type Shindengen SH847 kit, complete with wire harness kit and mounting kit. Started digging around in the wire harness, under the factory rubber cover, looking for the 3ea stator wires and the Pos/neg leads, and looky what I found....
really bad repairs to old melted wires. Looks like the PO had the R/R go bad and it melted the factory bullet connectors and a bit of wiring. The reason I think that, is that the R/R on the bike looks almost new. But, the crimped and taped wires were not good quality, in bad shape. As soon as touched one of the crimped non factory spade connectors, it fell off....rotted. Probably will just change out the stator for good measure now. Crazy, as the electrical seemed fine, just never know I guess? Better I found this now, than getting stranded 100 miles from home.

 

[maicojoe]

Another picture

 

[posplayr]

Looks like the PO tried to do a good job. The problem with crimping, will always be the problem with crimping, is you need a good quality crimper matched to the wire size and terminal ends you are crimping. Those crimps look green (best I can tell from the picture). If you are going to just crimp wires it would be best to spray the wire ends with DeoXit before and after crimping on critical connections between R/R and battery.

You may be lucky and the stator is in decent shape. For another $110 you can get an Electrosport and start fresh with the Series R/R.

 

[maicojoe]

Yes, I agree on crimped connectors. Use good quality crimp connectors, good quality crimpers made for what your crimping ( insulated or non insulated), and always try to use heat shrink over the crimp. I use crimped connectors at work all the time, in a marine environment, and the biggest thing is getting it sealed up with heat shrink tubing and or Scotch Coat. And yes, the wire was green from corrosion/heat. Not sure why they added a section of wire with additional connector... maybe they couldn't find or get OEM style bullet connectors? Will get my meter out tomorrow and check the stator, then run the bike and test the output of the new R/R. Right now I have the positive lead of the R/R connected straight to the + on the battery, with a 30 amp inline auto reset circuit breaker. Would it be helpful if I were to tee off this positive lead to the old positive lead where the old R/R plugged into?

 

[posplayr]

Yes, I agree on crimped connectors. Use good quality crimp connectors, good quality crimpers made for what your crimping ( insulated or non insulated), and always try to use heat shrink over the crimp. I use crimped connectors at work all the time, in a marine environment, and the biggest thing is getting it sealed up with heat shrink tubing and or Scotch Coat. And yes, the wire was green from corrosion/heat. Not sure why they added a section of wire with additional connector... maybe they couldn't find or get OEM style bullet connectors? Will get my meter out tomorrow and check the stator, then run the bike and test the output of the new R/R. Right now I have the positive lead of the R/R connected straight to the + on the battery, with a 30 amp inline auto reset circuit breaker. Would it be helpful if I were to tee off this positive lead to the old positive lead where the old R/R plugged into?

That is best. Make sure your fuse box is clean including all connections between the "T" and the battery.

 

[2BRacing]

That is best. Make sure your fuse box is clean including all connections between the "T" and the battery.

Not meaning to hijack OP's thread, but want to learn something from the question.

I am not understanding the need to run +ve R/R lead direct to battery via fuse, and then "T" off that line to original +ve R/R connection to harness "T"?

Why not just take +ve R/R lead directly to original harness "T", thereby cutting out the fused connection direct to battery +ve and the extra "T"?

 

[posplayr]

Not meaning to hijack OP's thread, but want to learn something from the question.

I am not understanding the need to run +ve R/R lead direct to battery via fuse, and then "T" off that line to original +ve R/R connection to harness "T"?

Why not just take +ve R/R lead directly to original harness "T", thereby cutting out the fused connection direct to battery +ve and the extra "T"?

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...-Charging-System-Health&p=1138898#post1138898

 

[maicojoe]

Finished installing the new R/R today. Did some checking with my meter, both the stator and system voltages. The stator measured ok, 80.9 ohms on all three legs, and about 300k-500k for each leg to engine case ground. So, looked ok, finished the install and took some voltage readings before a ride and after a 30 mile test loop ride.
Bike key off- 12.44 vdc at batt term
Bike key on, engine off, low beam on, let stabilize- 11.72 vdc
Engine on, idle with new R/R, 1200 rpm, 13.7 vdc
2,000 rpm- 14.40 vdc
5,000 rpm- 14.45 vdc
After 30 mile ride- the engine off numbers came up a little bit, 12.75 vdc & 12.25 vdc
The new R/R runs very cool temps, barely above ambient air temp of 65 F.
As a note, I would not recommend this R/R for any stock Suzuki that still has the original air box, as this unit is at least twice as large as a OEM Suzuki R/R. There just wouldn't be enough room that I can see, maybe with longer leads, in the tail piece? But, since I have Mikuni 33mm round slides with pod air filteres, I choose this unit as it should be the heaviest duty and coolest running modern type that is a series unit. The kit also came with Weather Pack type connector kit, and a nice universal mounting kit. Another note is, don't accidentally hook up a carb float bowl vent line as your vacuum line to the 1982 type vacuum operated fuel petcock.... doesn't work very well....

 

[posplayr]

The voltages look good, but your ohm meter measurements are pretty useless if not possibly bring deceptive. You want to do the open loop VAC measurements. You want to test for insulation breakdown and a 9v battery does little to stress the insulation.

 

[posplayr]

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...ECOND-LAW-of-Stator-testing&highlight=Phase+B

 

[maicojoe]

My Fluke 1587 megger/multi meter goes to 1000 vdc, tested stator at 500 vdc for 60 seconds. When I get the time, I still plan on installing a quality new stator, even though the bike just turned over to 10,000 miles today on my test ride. I have owned the bike for 4 years now, bought the bike at 6,000 miles, so at 1000 miles per year average, with new charging system that is much better than OEM, should last me for many many years.

 

[posplayr]

My Fluke 1587 megger/multi meter goes to 1000 vdc, tested stator at 500 vdc for 60 seconds. When I get the time, I still plan on installing a quality new stator, even though the bike just turned over to 10,000 miles today on my test ride. I have owned the bike for 4 years now, bought the bike at 6,000 miles, so at 1000 miles per year average, with new charging system that is much better than OEM, should last me for many many years.

Testing the stator at 5K RPM should produce 80VAC which seems to be good enough to diagnose/stress the stator. The leg-to-ground being the most reliable. You probably only need to test at 250 VAC if your meter has that setting.

 

[maicojoe]

It does, has Insulation test voltages of 50 V, 100 V, 250 V, 500 V, 1000 V. I figure if it can survive at 500 volts for 60 seconds, holding steady after it stabilizes after about 5-10 seconds, it's gonna be ok for the next couple months, till I get the time to order up and install a new stator. Was in a hurry today to get it up and running, didn't have much time to work on it. Heck, for all I know, it may well be a brand new stator that was put in with the new OEM R/R by previous owner. Thanks for all the tech help and quick responses. I am sure I will be asking you more electrical question in short order.....
I have been slowly collecting parts to build a nice GS1150 based 1400cc street engine, for one of my three G1100e bikes, just not sure which one now. But, will need to upgrade the entire starter system and want to use a complete Dyna 2000 ignition system. You ever been down this road?