another brake rebuild thread

[Crazy_Russian]

well, trying to fix another thing on my old GS i got front brake disks off a latter model (81 g750 iirc) the drilled style ones (i think thats the proper term for them) and now installing same year calipers, what i cant figure out is what brake pads and rebuild kit to use, i have my hart set on EBC brakes pads (ive bean using them for years on my cars, love them, sticking with them) i know they are square but are they #:EBC FA51 or #: EBC FA36? FA36 looks like a set for the rears, but im not 100% on that... also, is the rebuild kit from Z1 any good? i need to do a big order from them anyways, was hopingray: to get it all from the same place
Thank You

 

[Crazy_Russian]

anyone? help ?

 

[Agemax]

FA36 appears to be rear fitment pads............
1 / 1

Brake Pads EBC FA36 Kawasaki/ Suzuki
LAFA36

FA36- OEM: 43050-010, 69100-34860, 43082-1002. BEFORE YOU BUY, PLEASE CHECK IF YOUR BIKE HAS SQUARE PADS OR ROUND PADS. If they are round pads, please order SU610-412 or LAFA37. . . Brake Pads EBC FA36 [Square] Kawasaki Rear KZ650C from frame number 023101.(For frame numbers up to 023100 use FA37 pads {round}) KZ650 D1/D1A/SR/D2 KZ1000A!/A2/A2A/A3/A4/B3/B4/C1/C1A/C2/C3/C4/D1/D3/E1/E2/G1 KZ1300A1/A2/A3/A4/B2 Suzuki Rear GS550C/EC/EN/ET/LT/LX/MZ/TX GS650EX/EZ/GX/GLX/GD/GLD/MD XN85D GS700EF/ESF GS750C/N/EC/EN/ET/EX/EZ/ED/ESD/LN/LT/LX/SD GS850GT/GX/GZ/GD/GLT/GLD RF900RT/RV GS1000 GS1100ET/ED/ESD/GZ/GLZ/GD/GLD/GKZ/GK2/GKD/LT/SD
GV1200GLF


FA51's are fronts...............
Brake Pads EBC FA51 Suzuki
LAFA51

FA51 - Brake Pads EBC FA51 Suzuki Front GN250 GN400 GS450 GS700 GV700 GS750ET/EX/EZ/ED/ESD/LT/LX/TZ/TD GS850 GS1000GT/GLT/GX/GLX GS1100GZ/GLZ/GD/GLD/GKZ/GK2/GKD GV1200

 

[Crazy_Russian]

thank you Agemax
what the general opinion on caliper rebuild kits from Z1?

 

[Agemax]

thank you Agemax
what the general opinion on caliper rebuild kits from Z1?

i cant help you with that my crazy russian friend as i have not used them, but i am sure someone who has will soon give you their opinions

 

[Crazy_Russian]

again, Thank You
ive ordered a pair of rebuild kits and pads, will find out how they work out

 

[eil]

OEM kits are usually recommended for brake components. (Except for the brake lines, where you should buy aftermarket stainless steel braided lines instead.) Quality on the the K&L kits varies. Some people here have had good luck with them. Others, not.

Usually the fiche for the rear caliper would show a rebuild kit containing new pistons and seals, but I don't see such a thing on the fiche for your bike. I only see one that includes all those plus the brake pads as well. If you're okay with OEM pads, I go for that one. If not, you _may_ have to order the pistons and seals separately. Perhaps a dealer or someone else here may know if the piston and seal kit from another year/model is a direct fit for your bike.

 

[Crazy_Russian]

well, i rebuilt the brakes, new seals, striped the calipers and brackets, repainted everything with VHT caliper paint, baked it, head new SS lines made (got to love my local PECO guys, dropped the lines off at 1:30, they were done bu 4 :dancing new EBC pads..... and..... pot hole.... not getting enough pressure. Bled the brakes, no more air, and they are still soft i can have the handle in all the way and they are still not braking to the fullest... wtf? guys help please!!! this is a 78 M/C with gs1000 calipers and rotors, do i need a later model M/C? or am i doing something wrong? "bashing head on table"

 

[Crazy_Russian]

little update. head the brake lever strapped to the handle over night. It has some pressure now, haven't head a chance to ride it so dont know if it fixed it (need the engine cold for valve adjustment) what dose leaving the brake handle tied down do?

 

[Agemax]

little update. head the brake lever strapped to the handle over night. It has some pressure now, haven't head a chance to ride it so dont know if it fixed it (need the engine cold for valve adjustment) what dose leaving the brake handle tied down do?

that will force any air bubbles trapped in the system to rise up and expel themselves from the fluid in the system. if the lever feels better now, after riding, bleed it again and see if any more air comes out.

 

[eil]

EDIT: I saw you posted an update shortly before me, so consider this a few minutes overdue.

Did you rebuild the master cylinder?

The two most likely causes are: you didn't bleed the brakes fully, or you assembled the master cylinder incorrectly and got one of the parts turned around.

How did you bleed the brakes? The method that works the best for me is vacuum bleeding. You could get one of those fancy vacuum bleed setups for $50-$100, or use a large $1 medical syringe: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=205846 It's slightly more finicky than a vacuum pump, but not greatly so.

Others have also had good luck tying the brake lever back with a bungee cord and letting it sit overnight.

 

[Crazy_Russian]

Agemax, thank you
Eil, the only thing i didnt touch was the front MC. I gues i should of :-( the way i bleed is pump 5 times-hold-bleed-repeat. also ive tried slightly open valve with a line and a bottle full of fluid and just pump, so it flows and doesn't suck any air in. i will post updates after i do valve adjustment tonight and take it for a test ride. Thank You

 

[Crazy_Russian]

after 3 hours of bleeding and messing around, I finally fingered out whats going on. When i first got the bike, I've replaced the clutch and brake levers with some no name from ebay, according to description, they worked. Well, apparently not so well, I've installed a washer between the plunger and the lever and head to grind down the lobe for the "rest" position so it would not pressurize the system when not activated. Kind red neck solution, but it works for now.
Could someone point me to the handles that work? I'm also not a big fan of stock ones as i find them hard to grab (my hands are not very big) plus problems with right wrist after last years accident doesn't help.
So what handles do you guys use and recommend?

 

[cowboyup3371]

My clutch handle is OEM while I use a Kawasaki MC with a twinpot setup for my front brakes

 

[Crazy_Russian]

my clutch handle is fine, its the brake handle that's giving me problems, from which Kawi MC are you using?

 

[eil]

Is the master cylinder OEM?

If so, an OEM brake lever should be easy to find. eBay, parts wanted forum here, or OEM.

You have two GS's in your sig, which one are you working on today? Boulevard shows under $20 for a brand-spanking new lever for either of them.

 

[Crazy_Russian]

sorry, its the 78. Yes, its OEM. i really didnt like the stock handles and thats why i switched them.

 

[cowboyup3371]

a 2008 Ninja ex650 on mine

 

[Agemax]

have a look at a bandit 600 front m/c and clutch perch,(the cable operated one) i have them on my GS1000 and the levers are really nice and comfortable.