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Another Carb question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Katamaniac
  • Start date Start date
K

Katamaniac

Guest
I took my carbs out, cleaned them and replaced all the o-rings and the air jet plugs. I was having problems getting the carbs to sychronize, and I removed them again to double check the assembly. All was good on that end.

I installed them again tonight and I'm having the same problem. The Idle is all over the place. I have pods and a yoshimura 4 into 1 exhaust that was already on the bike and jetted correctly for those upgrades.

This is on the 1100s.

I am also using a Motion Pro carb tool and I'm having problems with condensation in the tubes. I tried removing the tubes from the bike several times while it was running, but I just can't get it out. ](*,)
 
I went out again last night to do some more investigation. I noticed that the Mercury level on the manometer was low. I spilled some when I was moving it.

Could the low mercury level make a differance.
 
I've used that Motion Pro tool many times for synching. I've never had a problem with condensation in the tubes- was it really humid out that day? Maybe the airbox had condensation in it?
 
There is no airbox since I have K&N pods. I am just about fed up with the whole thing and I may take the bike to a mechanic to tune it. I'm going to try more mercury tonight and see if that works.
 
The longer it takes you to synch, the more condensation will bother you. Usually, you can quickly remove/replace each tube from the manifold as the bike's running to minimize the condensation.
An accurate synch depends on the valve clearances being correct, along with ignition timing. The mixture screws should be adjusted using the highest rpm method, before and after the synch. I don't synch at idle. I synch at around 3,000 rpm's. That's closer to where I'll be riding anyway. Always triple check the levels after setting. Get them so the difference between the highest and lowest level is about 1/2 ".
 
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