Another charging issue thread (GS550)

[phanham]

Alright, I read the stator papers, and stator didn't pass. I bought a cheap Caltric stator and regulator replacement thinking no matter what, should correct issue (my cheap HF multimeter couldn't measure R/R diodes to test). Nothing.

Ok, SPG mod. Nothing.

Ok, run tests again. Stator resistance and voltages test ok, so figure cheap Chinese R/R at fault. So ponyed up the bucks and I bought a real SH775. Once again, nothing.

I tried connecting R/R directly to battery (I know, not ideal, but was done in name of science. Nothing.

What's my next step? I'm leaning toward stator now, but don't want to throw any more $$ in parts that won't make a difference. I've got bike running great, but obviously still can't ride it on battery alone. Help please!

 

[posplayr]

what are your quick tests results?

 

[Nessism]

Did the stator you took out look like the new one. The early 550 stators were 12 pole but the later were 18. You can mix and match unless you get a matching rotor.

 

[posplayr]

Did the stator you took out look like the new one. The early 550 stators were 12 pole but the later were 18. You can mix and match unless you get a matching rotor.

I keep forgetting about that.

 

[tom203]

Since this is 1982 gs550. It came stock with the 18 pole stator. Attached pic shows stator with 12 poles- what are yours?

 

[phanham]

Replacement stator was a 18-pole Caltric ST235. It fit well and seemed to match exactly (except for the gasket they sent). I will run the quick test again tonight and report results, but it has been initially showing 12-13v off, ~11v starting, 12v idling, and 12v ~2500-5000 RPM. Additionally, I waited 30 seconds to verify it wasn't just a MOSFET delay (per Jack @ RoadsterCycle). Now, I did see some moments in the beginning where MM was quickly reporting voltage all over the place when revving (11-33v), but I blew it off as bad connections (went away after resetting alligator clips to MM).

One more thing, battery isn't terribly old (~2 yrs old, acid, Interstate brand), but has been discharged/recharged many times the past year while trying to get bike running while charging system wasn't working. I've had to add water a few times now, and sometimes sounds as if boiling when on charger. If battery is possibly suspect, are there any suggestions for replacement?

Thanks everyone

 

[posplayr]

Quick test requires voltage measurements to 0.1v resolution.

MOSFET delay? Never heard of it. Mosfets are known for instantaneous switching. Even what limits there are nothing should last seconds.

also second step in QT is just key on ; with headlamp on it is about 10 amps and a pretty descent load to test battery. Too much going on trying to load test using starter.

as Ed pointed out (but mistyped) you can not have a mismatch between rotor znd stator as to number of poles.

 

[Guest]

If your battery sounds like it is boiling on your charger you are probably using an automotive charger possibly ruining the battery. Use a trickle charger, 1/4 amp is all that is necessary 2 amp max.

 

[posplayr]

If your battery sounds like it is boiling on your charger you are probably using an automotive charger possibly ruining the battery. Use a trickle charger, 1/4 amp is all that is necessary 2 amp max.

When ever in doubt about charging, simply monitor the voltage at the battery. The easiest way to do that is a volt meter mounted in your dash. They cost $1.50 on eBay. Charging at 13v is tending.charging at 14-14.5 volts will boil the battery if you just leave it. 14.5 is what your bike charges at but most people don't ride for more than a couple of hours at a time.

 

[eil]

One more thing, battery isn't terribly old (~2 yrs old, acid, Interstate brand), but has been discharged/recharged many times the past

That could be your problem. Deep discharging a lead acid battery is bad for it and they can usually only take it a few times before giving up the ghost. They're meant to be kept at nearly full charge all the time. Two years is within the expected lifespan of an el-cheapo motorsports battery anyway.

The only way you can troubleshoot charging and electrical issues is with a good, fully-charged battery so I would get a new one before continuing. Like I told another member recently, see if your local battery shop sells an AGM battery for your bike for around $80. It will last longer than a conventional battery and requires no maintenance. (Although they still don't like to be deep discharged.)

 

[posplayr]

That could be your problem. Deep discharging a lead acid battery is bad for it and they can usually only take it a few times before giving up the ghost. They're meant to be kept at nearly full charge all the time. Two years is within the expected lifespan of an el-cheapo motorsports battery anyway.

The only way you can troubleshoot charging and electrical issues is with a good, fully-charged battery so I would get a new one before continuing. Like I told another member recently, see if your local battery shop sells an AGM battery for your bike for around $80. It will last longer than a conventional battery and requires no maintenance. (Although they still don't like to be deep discharged.)

The first step of the quick test is a battery load test. oP said 11v cranking starter but who knows what z cheap VOM will do with all the cranking noise.

 

[phanham]

OldVet, I use a little Schumacher 1.5amp that's supposed to go to a float mode to prevent overcharging.

Thanks posplayr for the voltmeter suggestion; that's a good tip, and I'll look into getting one ordered!

 

[posplayr]

OldVet, I use a little Schumacher 1.5amp that's supposed to go to a float mode to prevent overcharging.

Thanks posplayr for the voltmeter suggestion; that's a good tip, and I'll look into getting one ordered!

This has been updated as there are several different types of cheap vol meters from ebay. They all draw some small current so if you are not trickling you want put the volt meter on a switch.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...olt-meter-recommendations&highlight=voltmeter

 

[phanham]

Alright, looks like new stator sucks. Resistance is 1.1 for all wires, and I got good voltage from 2 wires, but nothing from the third. Any recommendations on a decent stator? Apparently Caltric is not a quality product...

 

[phanham]

On a side note, bike starts very easy and runs like a champ thanks to all the carb, ignition, and valve work!

 

[posplayr]

Alright, looks like new stator sucks. Resistance is 1.1 for all wires, and I got good voltage from 2 wires, but nothing from the third. Any recommendations on a decent stator? Apparently Caltric is not a quality product...

There is Electro Sport and Steve has a rewinding service.

 

[phanham]

There is Electro Sport and Steve has a rewinding service.

posplayr, seems like I've read you feel Electro Sport is overrated. So can you help me find Steve?

 

[posplayr]

posplayr, seems like I've read you feel Electro Sport is overrated. So can you help me find Steve?

I have said the Electrosport SHUNT R/R's are old junk. So of the stators as for my bike (1100E) are fine.

Steve is a Member. His name is Steve; both of them

 

[tom203]

Alright, looks like new stator sucks. Resistance is 1.1 for all wires, and I got good voltage from 2 wires, but nothing from the third. Any recommendations on a decent stator? Apparently Caltric is not a quality product...

Could be bad winding job, or you might have pinched wires where they get clamped with that bracket at stator cover bottom- a nick in a wire's insulation would cause problem.

 

[phanham]

New stator and voltmeter (thanks posplayr). Here it is at idle; kinda hard to get phone camera to clearly show led, but is at 13.2! Note it shows 12-12.4 with ignition on but bike not running, dips to 10.7ish starting, bounces back to 12.4, then steady 13.2 once warmed up (despite rpm, sh775 does good job regulating). Voltmeter is tapped into same power and ground from relay used for coil mod.