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Another Crash Due to Neglected Brakes...

Nessism

Nessism

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Just read yet another thread here about a member that went down because the brakes on the bike they were riding locked up. This makes at least the fourth such thread I've read here on this.:mad:

Sorry in advance to lecture but some of you guys need to take better care of your bikes or you could wind up DEAD!:eek:

Brake fluid coagulates with age as it absorbs water. After a while it starts to look like the jelly surrounding a canned ham! The brake fluid in your bike should be chanced every TWO years to avoid damage to the various parts; the water absorbed into the fluid starts to corrode the system from the in side out, damaging various parts like the caliper pistons.

If you purchase a neglected bike don't even bother trying to flush out the system. You can not push that coagulated crap though, much of it will stay behind and continue to corrode the system. You need to perform a full system tear down and clean out.

And don't forget the brake lines. Suzuki calls for replacing the stock rubber brake lines every TWO years. While even anal folk will call this excessive, if your bike still has these lines it goes without saying that you are WAY OVERDUE! That same brown brake fluid sludge filling your system is attached to the inside of your brake lines and will quickly contaminate your fresh brake fluid unless you ditch those lines.

Parts:

- OE Suzuki brake system parts (master cylinder kit, caliper rebuild kits, caliper pistons) are FAR SUPERIOR to K&L and most other aftermarket brake parts. Aftermarket brake pads are okay, but the OE interior system parts are superior.

- There are tons of different companies selling brake lines, and Suzuki still sells the OE lines for half way reasonable prices too. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, consider making your own lines. The quality and price can't be beat by premade lines... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=114521 Regardless of where you get your lines though, just get some.

Please be safe folks. We don't want to loose anybody due to an easily avoidable maintenance issue.


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Have read yours and other threads on this, and agree with you totally. I have only replaced fluids and pads thus far. But a rebuild is in the near future. Many people and I believe, you as well, have recommended braided brake lines. These are a little expensive. But would install them if there is improved braking. Or are they for longevity ? Or both ?
 
Teflon/stainless brake lines will lead to a firmer feeling brake lever since they don't expand as much under pressure. OE lines are okay too though, just don't run the 30 year old ones. The OE lines get soggy with age and are full of sludge. Changing them is not as critical as removing all the sludge out of the system, but that same sludge you can see in the calipers and master cylinder, is inside the lines as well.
 
Nessism said:
take better care of your bikes or you could wind up DEAD!:eek:
Click to expand...

Point taken. Learn the lesson from other peoples mistakes before it bites you. Moving the brake rebuild to the top of the list. Thanks for the reminder.
 
I had cleaned the calipers and flushed the system with fresh fluid. What I neglected to do was disassemble the master cylinder and clean it. I made the mistake of assuming it was fine since the brake system was working prior to cleaning. All it took was a small piece of crud to block the return port. From this point on, I will ALWAYS replace brake lines with SS lines, thoroughly clean the master cylinder, and throw out the diverter block.

Take Ed's advise and replace those brake components before it's too late!
 
Very true Ed. If I may add out of my own experience, even after performing a full system rebuild before riding, I still had problems with lockups because the replacement reservoir did not have a functional return port (had to drill one out). MAKE SURE you fully inspect ALL of your brake parts while doing the rebuild. You'll find problems faster and safer in the garage than on the road.
 
bccap said:
Have read yours and other threads on this, and agree with you totally. I have only replaced fluids and pads thus far. But a rebuild is in the near future. Many people and I believe, you as well, have recommended braided brake lines. These are a little expensive. But would install them if there is improved braking. Or are they for longevity ? Or both ?
Click to expand...

Braided lines aren't as expensive as you may think. Certainly cheaper than running the 30 year old lines and running the risk of brake failure resulting in bodily harm, bike damage, and possibly the death of your or others.

Check out Earl's Store for DIY stainless kits. It's really easy to build your own lines.
 
81GS750 said:
Braided lines aren't as expensive as you may think. Certainly cheaper than running the 30 year old lines and running the risk of brake failure resulting in bodily harm, bike damage, and possibly the death of your or others.

Check out Earl's Store for DIY stainless kits. It's really easy to build your own lines.
Click to expand...

Yes this!

This thread explains all the particulars when build your own brake lines from Earl's parts... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=114521
 
I recently made those brake lines for my GS450 and it only took about 5 minutes, super easy and $40 delivered. My question is do they last longer than 2 years? or just resist being cut by debris and over expanding?
 
A thoroughly cleaned system with new lines should be good for another 15 years, if you flush the fluid every 1-2 yearss
 
Brakes than carbs..than the pretty stuff, vintage bike lesson 101
 
I bought a '79 with the front brake inoperative. Piston stuck in the caliper, etc. I rebuilt the master cylinder, couldn't believe the amount of dirt and crud in there! Then I tried to prime the system- the lines (the originals!) were plugged! I have long taken these things for granted but this is a wakeup call! New brake lines are on order. When I rebuild the caliper it'll be A1 top to bottom- and I'm gonna keep it that way.
 
I think if I ever buy another used bike I'll replace the master cylinder rather than rebuilt the original. PITA. Unless I'm going for a complete OEM rebuild (doubtful since I like upgraded SS allen heah fasteners)
 
If you get anything other than BRAND SPANKING NEW Apopleptic then you'll have to rebuild it. It's just the nature of the beast.
 
You are right. Hmm, let me rephrase what I said. If I every buy a used bike with the master cylinder as stupid as mine was, I'm replacing the master cylinder.
The caliper I feel could be alot easier to rebuild than my MC turned out to be.
I literally have replaced every single part on the thing except for the body of it, and I spent $40 trying to get the messed up paint off like a fool. whole thing new would have cost about the same as the reservoir and piston cup and screws and o-ring and the lever...
 
Just a couple of things to add

Ed - not just crud, but actual crystalline particles are possible. These will clog your relief port


Apopleptic -Stainless brake lines may not last forever, but certainly longer than 2 years and likely longer than you.
 
Big T said:
Apopleptic -Stainless brake lines may not last forever, but certainly longer than 2 years and likely longer than you.
Click to expand...
If I get 6 years they'll pay for themselves compared to the rubber ones.
Alternately the first time something kicks up and cuts the plastic covering but not the steel they'll have paid for themselves 100 fold.
 
C'mon guys... the RTV repairs on my brake lines DO have feelings ya know?
 
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